Help with troubleshooting my grinding problem..

[Rexx66]

Going to check my fluid, is what I have circled in orange the plug I need to check? If not what is this for and where can the one I need be found? Also, any ideas what the hose in green is for?

Not sure which Transmission I have, but from what I've seen online its maybe the T-150 ? Anyone able to confirm this? Has the Inline6 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l engine, 79 CJ5 .

Also, if I do need fluid any recommendation of what should be put in it?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The green circle is the speedo drive cable. LEAVE IT ALONE!
The orange is the fill plug.
The drain s/b under the t'case. BTW, you have a Dana 20 t'case.
OIL--Like I said before--80W-90.
ORDER THAT FSM, ASAP!
LG

 

[Rexx66]

So the orange hole will be the one I give a good fingerin' to then to check for fluid level...

BTW, what kind of fluid (brand) would be best to go with? Assuming I need it...

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I use Sta-lube 80W-90.
Buy it by the gallon and get the hand pump.
I really think you should drain and refill both axles, Transmission and Transfer Case .
That should use up at least 2 gallons of oil.
Keep a log with date/mileage on ALL the maintenance.
LG

 

[Rexx66]

Well went out tonight and check the fluid and it was a little low. Added about 8 oz. to it. Took it for a drive and still grinds from 2nd to 3rd gear sometimes. I'm debating on just taking it to a local shop and letting them deal with it. I don't have the extra time to mess with it much.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Why don't you CHANGE the oil and see what happens.
Do you know how long that other oil has been in there?
Got to find time to wrench, or your gonna go broke--
LG

 

[jpeck71]

So the orange hole will be the one I give a good fingerin' to then to check for fluid level...

I swear I'm a teenager. That made me giggle.

Got to find time to wrench, or your gonna go broke--

Agree. I'm guessing I would have spent a good $2000 in the last 6 months if I hadn't done my work myself. Instead I'm only out the cost in parts.

 

[Rexx66]

My current status is to just continue double clutching to 3rd gear to prevent grinding until I get a chance to run it by a local shop that does good tranny work.. :drool:

 

[Rexx66]

Took the ol' Jeep to a local shop and talked to the guy who works on transmissions and quoted me without parts, that it'd run 500-650 just for labor, and then parts depend on availability (I priced around 80-AMC 150 depending on which site)

It was brought up from a friend of mine who was a former mechanic and also by this guy who's been doing it for years that the synchronizers were shot. I would do this myself with my friend who knows for the most part of what he is doing, but we worry about running into some old "technology" that makes it a major PITA, or needing some special tools.

Is there a tutorial or something somewhere showing the process? If it looks like we could do it over a weekend or just when ever we get time then I don't have a problem assisting him. He seems worried about driveshaft removal and it just being old and rusty from mud under there. Seems like every time I work on this thing a bolt is rusted and seized up and I end up shearing the head off...

Any info on tranny dropping' would be appreciated, thanks!

 

[Lumpy Grits]

You might as well add a new clutch, since the
'box' is out anyhoo.
Since you have never rebuilt a manual tranny-It may well be worth the $$$ to have the 'pro' do it.
Ask him if you could watch-Most don't have a problem with that.
That's how I learned--
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

If it's your listed 1979 that's giving you trouble the Transmission is probably a T-150 . Very similar to the T-15 , but not the same. More parts are available for the T-150 and that's a good thing.

You might need a bearing puller, it's a special one made for grabing onto the big end bearing groove. When I rebuilt my T-15 that was the only special tool required. Can't sweat on the T-150 though. Good luck with all involved. The work really isn't all that difficult. When replacing the snap rings use the tightest ring you can find and reusing the stretched ones you remove isn't good Transmission ediquite. Those big strong snap rings aren't all that good at bouncing back from being stretched. ooohhh and one other thing, you need a good strong set of snap ring pliers.

 

[CJ007]

I would check my tranny mount to see if it has play and might as well check skid plate for tightness. I have an 83' (similar rubber/poly mount) and when I had the old T-4 , I began getting some grinding and it was because my mount wore out. It was flexing when I put in gear I was grinding. Changed it and it went away.

If not, probably synchros.