How Practical? Building a T18A from parts

[hole]

Turbogus, either 2wd or 4wd transmissions work fine because you need to change out the output shaft . The main thing is that its from a Ford and it's the desired gear ratio you want.

 

[Turbogus]

Hmmm I forget the online resource, prehaps it was Motive or Novak's that their adapter was compatible with the 2wb version. Seems to me that there would be no difference in the transmissions themselves, but then what do I know...
Ich weiss nicht!

 

[tarry99]

Okay here's some pics of what I found so far;

The Inner Sanctum

Close up of the 1st-2nd Clutch Sleeve

& Turbogus,
That Transmission looks clean and fresh, ...................HUH!



Hate to tell you folks but that First/Reverse Sliding gear is Junk.............and beings it meshes with the Reverse Idler below to the rear of that and the counter shaft below I would guess there all in similar shape............A few small chips that do not remove more than 10% of the leading edge of the gear is acceptable if they can be cleaned up with a grinder...........What you have now will continue to chip away and will not stay in gear.

That Transmission has been abused by the former owner.................Here is what the gears should look like.

 

[Turbogus]

Thanks Tarry, I thought something was up with that sleeve. Where did you get yours?

 

[tarry99]

Thanks Tarry, I thought something was up with that sleeve.

Ford T-18 's all have First and Reverse straight cut "NON-Syncro" Gears........
Who ever drove that Truck never let it come to a complete stop before jamming it in either First or Reverse.............The T-19 has helical cut gears and has a Syncro on the First and Reverse gear...........normally no issues with gears in that setup.
Unfortunately finding a T-19 in a 6:32 Ratio is near impossible as most were built with the 5.0 gear.....that with a low gear in the Transfer Case will also make a nice setup.

Nothing wrong with the Ford T-18's as long as you understand that you have to stop be it on the street or trail before catching Low or Reverse........otherwise you will start chipping teeth. The trick on the used Junk yard market is to find one that has not been abused.............the re-builder's used to buy as many as they could find just to strip the gear sets out of them just to find decent usable gears for a rebuilt tranny...........some tell me they have had to go through as many as 10 transmissions to find enough good stuff to make 1 re-buildable Transmissions. If you see any in the yards that the cover has been off and only a few bolts now hold it on the re-build guys have looked and left......keep looking !

 

[Turbogus]

So much for companies claims about parts being 'readily available'

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Tarry66,
Clean = no metallic mud, no broken parts, no spiders & no magnet that looks like super fine steel wool.
Fresh = No rust as in fresh take-out.
Besides, he knows he needs to replace, the hard surface is gone. Replace 3 now or more later. Abuse was 1st and reverse, PO did not slow to shift or maybe downshifted to 1st a lot, or did not know was non synchro. If I still had my old hard drive, I could show you trannies & transfers that you would not believe could still move.
That is what I meant.
He has to buy 2 gears, 2 shafts, an adapter with a rebuild kit.
Sorry for the confusion.
Have a nice weekend and keep it safe.

 

[tarry99]

So much for companies claims about parts being 'readily available'

There are parts out there you just have to be persistent and keep looking. Some of the Bronco guys are good sources..........There are plenty around that only have a chip or two on the main gears..........by the time you replaced the counter shaft ($250)the reverse Idler ($85) and the 1st gear slider ($185) if you could even find them it may not be worth it as with all the ground up metal garbage that has gone through that gear case everything else is also pretty worn out or Junk!
Go look at some others and be prepared to pop the top cover off and look inside at the three gears mentioned............Normally they are the only gears that see wear!
Look at the bright side , you now have some knowledge on the T-18 's.

 

[hole]

Turbogus, you might want to check out PartsMike. He lists a 1st/rev gear for the T-18 for $99 on his website

 

[Turbogus]

Thanks a lot hole, around here since poor Mac passed, there's no local Jeep boneyards (he even had a couple of FC's)

 

[IOPort51]

Have you looked at the 1st/reverse gears on the cluster yet??

 

[Turbogus]

Looking at the exploded view in my Jeep manual for the T18a and they don't seem to mention (patience please, I'm a novice) where the 1st/Reverse gears are (maybe I need a Machinists Mate Punch or some Flight Line to find 'em)

I made a little headway and removed the fore and aft housings yesterday (nice cool day in the garage)

Front Bearing Cap


Tailshaft Housing


This'll give me access to the Lock Ring retainers and the Front and Rear Bearings.





May give those Taiwanese Lock Ring pliers a test tonight and report their usefullness and durability in the morning.

 

[IOPort51]

the gears I refer to are the gear at the small end of the cluster gear and the reverse idler gear. these will be the two gears that come in contact with the sliding spur gear that has the chipped teeth.

I have the Transmission technologies bulletin no LD18-0410-0199 service manual. what are you using? Does anyone else have anything different?

No prop wash is required for this job, that I know of.

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Turbogus,
1st /2nd (synchro) big slider on top, 1st/reverse gear idler also a slider is on the side. 1st/reverse will be the little straight cut gear on the cluster gear, at the bottom of your Transmission ..
Will send you a diagram will be #13-23-34.

Once again thanks for mentioning me on your rear axle build, would like any pictures people have of there vehicles at Macs Jeeparts or Tools & parts from 4X4 Machine Products, would like to make a gallery in remembrance to him.

 

[Turbogus]

At this time this is the only other shot of inside the case that I have



Last Night I removed all the Lock Rings and Rear Bearing Retainer (that was a bear to remove) those pair of Lock Ring pliers work okay though so far.

Exploded view showing Lock Rings, Speedo drive and Bearing Retainer



Rear Bearing and surfaces collapsed


Rear Bearing extended


The Taiwanese Evercraft Lock Ring pliers


Close up of ends


Here's that Rear Bearing Retainer (that was such a bear to remove, I distorted it in the process)


Another view showing thickness


May start on front end tonight if I'm up to it.

 

[Turbogus]

Hey IO, I've got a Tremec book coming (same bulletin no.) but so far just using the Jeep TSM for now.
Pulled the Lock Ring and Bearing Retainer on the front side and like the Output Shaft, the one for the Input shaft was stuck on one side when it finally gave way it took a small chunk of the Input Shaft with it

One other thing (remembering that I'm a novice) are the bearings supposed to slide in/out this far? I noticed first on the output bearing, now also on the input bearing.

 

[Turbogus]

My Tremec Manual just arrived ! Now I can start calling things by their proper nomenclature.

Trouble is now I need to find a clamshell or other puller that'll work for pulling these bearings.

 

[Turbogus]

Well, I found this thing on HF and given my experience with tools from them I'm dubious. On the other hand I can't afford to drop $300 for two bearings.

 

[IOPort51]

Well, I found this thing on HF and given my experience with tools from them I'm dubious. On the other hand I can't afford to drop $300 for two bearings.

I think you need a bigger one to catch the snap ring grove in the bearing. HF sells a bigger one but you will have to build your own puller for it.

 

[Turbogus]

I stopped by a friend's shop and had a look at his pullers and putting our heads together we thought loading it up in the back of my van and hauling to the local Aamco and have them pull the bearings. Although I'm a little gunshy with the guys at our local Aamco, took 'em three tries to get my RUG Transmission . in my van fixed, and that took Corporate prodding.