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Is this a T4 or T176?

Is this a T4 or T176?

cuban11182

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CORPUS CHRISTI
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84 CJ7: 258, T5, Dana 300, Holley 390, Nutter Bypass.
4ypuvazu.jpg
 
Looks to be a Tremec T-176 . It's def. not a BW T-4
 
I'm asking the guy now for the Transmission , adapter, and front and rear drive shafts. Lets see what he says.

If you plan on putting this in your Cj you'll need the bellhousing for the T-176 as well. It has a different bolt pattern. If the deal includes that Dana 300 thats still bolted to the Transmission WOW! Thats another $200-$250 as well.

GOOD LUCK
 
If you plan on putting this in your Cj you'll need the bellhousing for the T-176 as well. It has a different bolt pattern. If the deal includes that Dana 300 thats still bolted to the Transmission WOW! Thats another $200-$250 as well.

GOOD LUCK

Pete, as I recall, the later CJ bellhousings had locations for eight holes to adapt the T-4 and 5 and the Ford T-18 and T-176 . So a T-4 bellhousing can be drilled and tapped out from the inside for the T-176 pattern. The spline count, bearing and length are the same.
 
T-176 . Great deal for $100. I sell them for $350 in good operating condition
Pete, you let me know when you have a good one for sale for $350. I just may be interested. Now isn't a good time but in the not so distant future I'll be in the market for a spare.

Yes, I believe I read the same thing that Torx said. A T-4 /T-5 bellhousing can be drilled to fit a T-176 . So 2 driveshafts is what would be needed to convert to it.
 
Pete, as I recall, the later CJ bellhousings had locations for eight holes to adapt the T-4 and 5 and the Ford T-18 and T-176 . So a T-4 bellhousing can be drilled and tapped out from the inside for the T-176 pattern. The spline count, bearing and length are the same.

I believe your correct. Probably cheaper that way as well. Whenever I see someone doing this swap I always try and have them get all the parts to make it a true bolt in. Just to add a little (since you brought up the Ford T-18 ) you cant use a T-176 bell housing with a SM465. One of the pre existing holes is slightly off where the new one has to be drilled for. You need the T-4 /5 SR4 housing.

Pete, you let me know when you have a good one for sale for $350. I just may be interested. Now isn't a good time but in the not so distant future I'll be in the market for a spare.

Yes, I believe I read the same thing that Torx said. A T-4 /T-5 bellhousing can be drilled to fit a T-176 . So 2 driveshafts is what would be needed to convert to it.

I"ll keep an eye out. I havent been parting as many as I used to. Guess Im getting old. :D You never know what I'll run across though. :chug:
 
BTW you should check the metal tag riveted to the case for the number. Most I have come across are T177's. Only difference is first (and reverse) gear ratio. T177 is a tad bit lower. Rebuild kits are the same, but if you need to replace a gear, they will be different.

5359389=T-177 3.82 first gear
5359890=T-176 3.52 first gear

112_1219.JPG
 
I'm waiting to hear back from him. He was supposed to call me back yesterday, but didn't I'll shoot him another email and see whats up.

Thanks for all the advice
 
So the deal is going to go through. For the Transmission , adapter, and bell housing $250 plus he is delivering it from about 3 hours away.

One thing I'm wondering is if I'm going to have to get two new axles now. Currently I have the stock T-5 axles.

Any ideas on what lengths I'm going to need, if I do?

Thanks.
 
BTW you should check the metal tag riveted to the case for the number. Most I have come across are T177's.

Yes, check the tag. The guy I bought my 177 from had it advertised as a 176. Before buying it I checked the numbers and was happily surprised.

You can get your rear driveshafts lengthened and the front shortened at a shop. Mine was around $250 including balancing, etc.
 
There were at least two businesses in my area that specialized in driveshafts only. The machine shops didn't perform this work and recommended them.

Everyone's geometry is different, so you should measure fixed yoke to fixed yoke after you get everything in place. In the end, the 'driveshaft' portion of mine, without including the CV joint in the measurement, was the same as the length Tom Woods sells theirs at for the T-176 . The driveshaft specialists will take your measurement and adjust accordingly. Mine put 25-30% for compression and the rest for extension.

MeasDC_575x240.webp
 
Found a company that does it here in Corpus. Now to get the unit, rebuild it, and get the measurements.
 
You can look on this list from the parts manual for the stock length of the T17x drive shafts. http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/t176-drive-shafts-21656/#post178434

IIRC you have to shift your skid to the next set of holes in the frame as well. Will look at mine tonight and let you know which holes to use.

Good time to order a new Transmission mount bushing. They are really pretty cheap. And another MAW would be the engine mounts since you will have most of the drive train out.
 

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