• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.
    To dismiss this notice
    click the top right X.

Just bought the MC2100 1.8 Carb- And I am wondering about all the vacuum lines

Just bought the MC2100 1.8 Carb- And I am wondering about all the vacuum lines
Don't give up, you've almost got it. Let's start with the first pic;


attachment.php


1. What is this, and where does the brown line go to?
2. Is there something that should be here?

In one of the two spots, 1. or 2. you need a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. We'll talk more about that again.

The green line, that should be vacuum to the carb from the distributor.

The blue line, should be vapor return to the tank.
 
attachment.php



1. Yes, the brass T on the exhaust manifold can be removed and the hole plugged. This is the primary source of vacuum for power brakes. Without power brakes, there is no need for this. Also, the line that comes off of this T, is it the same line as the #2 is pointing to? Is is connected to the EGR valve?

2. Just covered this, what is this line and where does it come from?

3. What is this line and where does it come from, is this the same as the tan line in the first picture?

4. We talked about in #1.
 
Don't give up, you've almost got it. Let's start with the first pic;


attachment.php


1. What is this, and where does the brown line go to?
2. Is there something that should be here?

In one of the two spots, 1. or 2. you need a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. We'll talk more about that again.

The green line, that should be vacuum to the carb from the distributor.

The blue line, should be vapor return to the tank.


That brown line goes to what I believe is the pcv valve and attaches to the top rear of the carburetor. as for two, that was where the original air filter hooked up and I beleive that I can use a ventilator like yours. The green line is a line to the vacuum advance. And the blue line is what I believe is a vapor return line to the tank
 
attachment.php



1. Yes, the brass T on the exhaust manifold can be removed and the hole plugged. This is the primary source of vacuum for power brakes. Without power brakes, there is no need for this. Also, the line that comes off of this T, is it the same line as the #2 is pointing to? Is is connected to the EGR valve?

2. Just covered this, what is this line and where does it come from?

3. What is this line and where does it come from, is this the same as the tan line in the first picture?

4. We talked about in #1.

No this line just dead ends, I have it capped. The other side of the "tee" is open. This line returns to the canister and hooks to the high side of what I believe is the PCV hook up on the rear side of the Choke assembly
 
No this line just dead ends, I have it capped. The other side of the "tee" is open. This line returns to the canister and hooks to the high side of what I believe is the PCV hook up on the rear side of the Choke assembly

I meant to say, line three
 
Here's two pics of my engine bay (before I tore the engine apart even though it ran just fine)

dsc_1187.jpg



And here it is all labeled;

attachment.php


vacuum_setup.jpg
 
Here's the deal, the reason your engine refuses to run is because the vacuum lines are all messed up. I think we can get it straight without you have to take it and pay someone to do it for you.
 
had a little trouble with photobucket take another look.:o

Which way was that IO, pushing it into the street and resigning it to a carb specialist or the mounting bracket?
 
That brown line goes to what I believe is the pcv valve and attaches to the top rear of the carburetor. as for two, that was where the original air filter hooked up and I beleive that I can use a ventilator like yours. The green line is a line to the vacuum advance. And the blue line is what I believe is a vapor return line to the tank


Okay, the brown line, needs to get pulled. The white plastic "thingy" that you have also needs to be removed, and get yourself a PCV valve like the one I posted.

You can leave 2. open for now, but just know that oil may come out of there.

The green and blue lines are good to go.


No this line just dead ends, I have it capped. The other side of the "tee" is open. This line returns to the canister and hooks to the high side of what I believe is the PCV hook up on the rear side of the Choke assembly

The line of the "T" that is open should run to one side of your PCV valve, the other side to the PCV valve should run back to the charcoal canister.


I meant to say, line three


line 3. should be connected to the other side of your PCV valve.




I'm sorry cfgraneto1118, I've been just spewing information at you without stopping to ask, is it making any sense, or am I just overwhelming you with info? I'm hope is that you've got this, we can get your vacuum lines straightened out and we can get your CJ running correctly :chug:
 
Last edited:
Okay, the brown line, needs to get pulled. The white plastic "thingy" that you have also needs to be removed, and get yourself a PCV valve like the one I posted.

You can leave 2. open for now, but just know that oil may come out of there.

The green and blue lines are good to go.




The line of the "T" that is open should run to one side of your PCV valve, the other side to the PCV valve should run back to the charcoal canister.





line 3. should be connected to the other side of your PCV valve.




I'm sorry cfgraneto1118, I've been just spewing information at you without stopping to ask, is it making any sense, or am I just overwhelming you with info? I'm hope is that you've got this, we can get your vacuum lines straightened out and we can get your CJ running correctly :chug:

I am listening Elwood. And I think I understand. I am running out of time and more importantly patience. I have been at this thing for a little more than a month and I need to get this thing up and running asap. I believe you. I should stick with it. But, I have been relying on a friend for rides to work and more importantly to NAPA. She is over it. And she needs to get her little SAAB worked on. And I need to be able to return the favor. If it is this simple. A smart carb guy, with all the information you have given me, should be able to have this baby up and running by tomorrow afternoon. He can tune the carb as well. And perhaps then I can swap out the valve cover and all the correct gaskets, fit your suggested vent crankcase breather, which came yesterday and fits in the back opening like you have done, and then we can move on from there.

One last question though, since I don't have an OHm meter handy at present and can't tell whether there is juice to the automatic choke, how would this effect the carb after I have the correct PCV valve and the line straightened out?

Another question, without the brake booster and just the master cylinder must I hook up the vacuum to the master cylinder?
:chug:
 
the mounting bracket. where did you find the bracket you have?? with a bit of creative bending I can see that working quite well.:cool:

Which way was that IO, pushing it into the street and resigning it to a carb specialist or the mounting bracket?
 
I am listening Elwood. And I think I understand. I am running out of time and more importantly patience. I have been at this thing for a little more than a month and I need to get this thing up and running asap. I believe you. I should stick with it. But, I have been relying on a friend for rides to work and more importantly to NAPA. She is over it. And she needs to get her little SAAB worked on. And I need to be able to return the favor. If it is this simple. A smart carb guy, with all the information you have given me, should be able to have this baby up and running by tomorrow afternoon. He can tune the carb as well. And perhaps then I can swap out the valve cover and all the correct gaskets, fit your suggested vent crankcase breather, which came yesterday and fits in the back opening like you have done, and then we can move on from there.

One last question though, since I don't have an OHm meter handy at present and can't tell whether there is juice to the automatic choke, how would this effect the carb after I have the correct PCV valve and the line straightened out?

Another question, without the brake booster and just the master cylinder must I hook up the vacuum to the master cylinder?
:chug:


Okay, I understand your urgency and annoyance.

Here's the deal with an electric choke, all that voltage is doing is helping to warm up a spring that's inside of there. When the spring is cold, it is coiled tighter than when it's warm. When it's warm, the coil relaxes, and opens the choke. The same thing will happen with heat from the engine, the electric line going in just ensures that it happens consistantly, even on warm days.

So, even if it isn't getting the correct voltage to the choke it should still work correctly. But, the signs of your choke not working correctly would be that it's either going to run very lean when cold, not wanting to stay running, stalling, etc, or it's going to run rich when warm.

No, the only reason to hook up vacuum to the brakes is for power assited brakes.

Let us know if there's anything else you need :chug:
 
Okay, I understand your urgency and annoyance.

Here's the deal with an electric choke, all that voltage is doing is helping to warm up a spring that's inside of there. When the spring is cold, it is coiled tighter than when it's warm. When it's warm, the coil relaxes, and opens the choke. The same thing will happen with heat from the engine, the electric line going in just ensures that it happens consistantly, even on warm days.

So, even if it isn't getting the correct voltage to the choke it should still work correctly. But, the signs of your choke not working correctly would be that it's either going to run very lean when cold, not wanting to stay running, stalling, etc, or it's going to run rich when warm.

No, the only reason to hook up vacuum to the brakes is for power assited brakes.

Let us know if there's anything else you need :chug:

Gentleman, thank you all. I really appreciate everything that everyone has done. I pushed it out on the street and have made arrangements for it to be serviced tomorrow. Sometimes, even the best laid plans of mice and men.....:notworthy:
 
the mounting bracket. where did you find the bracket you have?? with a bit of creative bending I can see that working quite well.:cool:

Why the "creative bending"? It just pulls back from the point on the carb, The throttle cable is directly attached to the ball on the carb. Another bracket fixes the pull back or throttle return spring. Why bend?:confused:
 
at the moment yours is way too close to the carb you have to press down on the peddle for some distance before the throttle responds and I would say it will not come close to wide open throttle.:cool:
But it looks like an excellent place to start.:D
It could result in a much cleaner machine than what I have right now, which I have to admit is more than a bit "free style".:o

Why the "creative bending"? It just pulls back from the point on the carb, The throttle cable is directly attached to the ball on the carb. Another bracket fixes the pull back or throttle return spring. Why bend?:confused:
 
Last edited:
at the moment yours is way too close to the carb you have to press down on the peddle for some distance before the throttle responds and I would say it will not come close to wide open throttle.:cool:
But it looks like an excellent place to start.:D
It could result in a much cleaner machine than what I have right now, which I have to admit is more than a bit "free style".:o

Stolen directly from the interweb:

What happens if I just flip the bracket? :confused:
 
this process is what I call "spontaneous creativity". Just keep messing with it until your happy or bored with it.:D

The bell crank needs to rotate 90 degrees, the best place for the cable to lune up would be in direct line with the wide open position with the peddle at full up at idle and touching the floor at wide open. If you can make all three of those things happen you have the right position for the cable retainer.:cool:



Stolen directly from the interweb:

What happens if I just flip the bracket? :confused:
 
Sadly, the baby drove off on top of a Tow Truck (looked sexy though.) The carb specialist was laughing at me as I talked to him. I was so apologetic. He said no problem we will figure it out. After all, it's just money. I will make more tomorrow. Thank you, especially Elwood. Can't wait for the next project. Having a mid afternoon beer and loving the fact that I took a day off to do this. :chug::notworthy:
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$40.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  20.0%
Back
Top Bottom