Build Thread Mike's 1986 CJ7 (Mid Year) Rebuild

[RiverandSand]

Definitely from the stock (previous) bushing set up.

I believe the stock bushing had a metal outter sleeve and slipped into the sleeve in the spring. The polys just replace all of the old stuff, punch it out.

 

[mdeluca]

Got the sleeves out and am now ready to start putting everything back together.

 

[RiverandSand]

Got the sleeves out and am now ready to start putting everything back together.

Nice, will look great when all put together.

 

[mdeluca]

Still trying to isolate my intermittent buzzing/vibration when downshifting.

Discovered that the Transfer Case vibration dampener is stripped... had to remove the skid plate and Transfer Case torque bracket to cut off the old dampener.... why should this project be straight forward...?

I've looked in the manual and everywhere else for the Transmission mount bolt torque, but can't find it.

They are two 7/16-14 grade 5 bolts. According to the torque charts the bolt is rated for 37 ft.lbs.

Should that be okay...?

 

[gert]

Still trying to isolate my intermittent buzzing/vibration when downshifting.

Discovered that the Transfer Case vibration dampener is stripped... had to remove the skid plate and Transfer Case torque bracket to cut off the old dampener.... why should this project be straight forward...?

I've looked in the manual and everywhere else for the Transmission mount bolt torque, but can't find it.

They are two 7/16-14 grade 5 bolts. According to the torque charts the bolt is rated for 37 ft.lbs.

Should that be okay...?

I worry about the aluminum that you are torqueing the bolts into but I would think anywhere from 20-37 would be fine with a dab of blue locktight

 

[mdeluca]

I worry about the aluminum that you are torqueing the bolts into but I would think anywhere from 20-37 would be fine with a dab of blue locktight

I did 37 w/locktite this morning... thanks.

Now to figure out how that dampener fastens up. Everyone I see wobbles all over. I plan on expanding the bushings until the shoulder of the bolt enters the hole in the crossmember and bolt it tight.

 

[mdeluca]

Backed the torque off to 32 ft lbs on the Transmission mount.

Lumpy had a great idea to use 1/2" all thread for the Transfer Case torque damper. I had purchased a new damper with bolt, but decided I liked Lumpy's idea after seeing the lack of adjustment.

I used a 4 1/2" long 1/2-13 tap bolt... could have gotten away with a 4" bolt.

Had to elongate the hole in the crossmember to get the bolt lined up vertical.

I was really hoping this was the cause of the intermittent buzzing while downshifting, but alas... still there.

Going to replace the speedometer cable today.

 

[Belizean]

Nice pictures. Thanks

 

[ablaz812]

cool build man keep it up

 

[mdeluca]

Here is a puny modification...

My license plate frame loosened and slid over toward the tailgate. The tailgate hit the frame when opened and left a nick in the paint. Can't have that happen.

I welded a washer on the frame bracket and moved it away from the tailgate an additional 1/4". I had 1/8" clearance; now there is 3/8" clearance and now it can't move.

 

[Masscj7]

Who would have thought that till It gouged the gorgeous paint. Putting that mod on my list. Great idea learned the hard way. Sorry to hear about the paint.

 

[mdeluca]

Who would have thought that till It gouged the gorgeous paint. Putting that mod on my list. Great idea learned the hard way. Sorry to hear about the paint.

It's just a nick and all taken care of... thanks.

 

[Ultrunner]

Such a simple solution to that problem. Way to go not over thinking it. I've got my eye on your paint job. Its the same style silver I had been considering as my original color was silver. Just wanted to freshen it up and have it look a bit more modern.

 

[mdeluca]

Finished the dog cushion/dog restraint for Cooper, the Bull Terrier, awhile ago. Finally getting around to updating my build thread. The set-up works great...!!! I've added some links to a full description of making the cushion and the restraint system:

Write Up On Making The Harness

Write Up On Making The Cushion

 

[Belizean]

He looks a lot like Willie, General Pattons dog. They have something in common. Riding in Jeeps

 

[mdeluca]

He looks a lot like Willie, General Pattons dog. They have something in common. Riding in Jeeps

Yeah, they do. Patton's English Bull Terrier was named William The Conquerer ("Willie"). Pappy Boyington had one too.

 

[Belizean]

Yeah, they do. Patton's English Bull Terrier was named William The Conquerer ("Willie"). Pappy Boyington had one too.

I had forgotten about Boyington's dog. Very distinctive face

 

[mdeluca]

Nice idea on the Para cord. Let us know how you like it over time.

Well, it has been over 3 1/2 years now with the paracord wrapped steering wheel. Still looks new. I'd say it is a very good solution.

 

[mdeluca]

Well, it's been awhile.

Replacement CJ7 Locking Hubs​

New Mile Marker 480 Locking Hub


Got off of a beautiful trail the other day and went to unlock my hubs only to find that the driver side was stuck. I finally had to take a vice-grip to it in order to force the dial over to 2 wheel drive.



Upon inspection, I was shocked to find many plastic parts/gears and the dial itself...! I also found one of the ring gears to be cracked which caused the bind.
I began scouring many sites on locking hubs only to find out that the Warn and SuperWench no longer make their much recommended locking hubs for any of the CJ7 models. I did find that MileMarker does make a quality, all metal, replacement and is well reviewed.



CJ Universal (6-bolt 27 spline) ’72-’86 Mile Marker #457 1 Pair
CJ Universal (5-bolt 27 spline) ’80-’86 Mile Marker #470 1 Pair
AMC ran various combinations of axles so be sure to check bolt pattern. Mine is a mid-year 1986 with the Dana 30 front axle and 5 bolt pattern.

Parts:
Mile Marker #470
10 each 3/8-16 x 1 1/2" Grade 5 zinc plated, hex head bolts
Gasket Maker (I used Permatex 25228 The Right Stuff)
Removal Procedure:

1. Put the front end on jack stands so that tires clear ground.
2. Remove cap from existing locking hubs.
3. Remove circlip from axle spindle.
4. Remove locking hub bolts and pull straight off. I had to tap with a dead blow hammer.

Installation Procedure:

• Clean off spindle (could be a good time to inspect wheel bearings).
• Dress surface of wheel hub and address if necessary.
• Before removing locking hub cap, mark orientation of cap to hub with a piece of painters tape and don't rotate the dial after removing cap.
• Separate the locking hub cap from the locking hub.
• Wipe, with denatured alcohol, mating surfaces of wheel hub and locking hub.

• Note: I decided not to use the paper gaskets that came with the locking hubs.
• Create a bead of the gasket maker on the wheel hub only; allow 15 minutes to skin over.
• Then finger tight the locking hub to the wheel hub until there is squeeze out. Clean up squeeze out.
• Wait the prescribed time, at least an hour, before torquing down to 30 ft-lbs.
• Reinstall circlip to spindle. You may need to use a pry bar at the u-joint behind the wheel to push the spindle deeper into the wheel hub to expose the groove for the circlip. Make sure the circlip is in the groove.

• Clean mating surfaces of locking hub and cap.
• Apply gasket maker on locking hub mating surface only; allow 15 minutes to skin over.

• While aligning the painters tape on the hub and the cap, finger tight the locking hub to the wheel hub until there is squeeze out. Clean up squeeze out.
• Wait the prescribed time, at least an hour, before torquing down to 30 in-lbs.
• Once the cap is secured to the hub it is okay to turn the selector dial.

The Mile Marker locking hubs come also with a nifty little wrench that gives a little more leverage if needed... thoughtful.

Hope this helps,
Mike

 

[Masscj7]

As always Mike, great write up. I’ve got to update my log. Sooo far behind. Your color selection long ago inspired my color.

Good to see you still updating.


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