• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.
    To dismiss this notice
    click the top right X.

Build Thread Mike's 1986 CJ7 (Mid Year) Rebuild

Build Thread Mike's 1986 CJ7 (Mid Year) Rebuild
Continuing to work on installing the new loom and tweaking connections.
1986_CJ7_Progress_050.jpg

Need to get a new rubber seal for the tailgate, but got it on for now. Adam gave me a couple of near new looking taillight lenses. Got the dash, gauges, glove box (new interior compartment), and grab bar installed.
1986_CJ7_Progress_051.jpg

Although the radiator had been replaced in the last 10 years, it showed signs of leaking and some weld work at the lower hose attachment so decided to replace it. Got the headlights and turn signals installed (Adam gave me a couple of near new turn signal lenses to replace the cracked ones).
1986_CJ7_Progress_052.jpg

New oil filter.
1986_CJ7_Progress_053.jpg

Working on the hoses.
1986_CJ7_Progress_054.jpg

Hood and hood hardware installed.
1986_CJ7_Progress_055.jpg

Shifter boots installed. Seats installed… starting to look like a Jeep!!!
1986_CJ7_Progress_056.jpg

A shot from the rear with the seats.
1986_CJ7_Progress_057.jpg

Drove it over to get the safety inspection… passed!!!
1986_CJ7_Progress_058.jpg
 
Last edited:
Get rid of that plastic fuel filter. It's a fire hazard, especially above the exhaust manifold like that.:eek:
When doing ANY wiring mods. Disconnect the battery POS(+)lead before cutting any wires. Most circuits are still 'hot' when the ign key is not in place.;)

LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Get rid of that plastic fuel filter. It's a fire hazard, especially above the exhaust manifold like that.:eek:
When doing ANY wiring mods. Disconnect the battery POS(+)lead before cutting any wires. Most circuits are still 'hot' when the ign key is not in place.;)

LG
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know. Picking one up tomorrow. I've got to find out where the vent line from the fuel filter to the tank went.

I thought you always disconnect the negative...

jafo said:
Very very nice!
Click to expand...

Thanks...
 
Current flow is NEG(-)to POS(+)in DC circuits.
I disco the POS(+)because the whole Jeep frame/body is NEG(-)and a lot less chance of a short.
LG
 
sponge said:
Looking great! What is left?
Click to expand...

Thanks... was just looking at yours... getting exciting!

I'm working on this stuff right now:

https://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f49/unresolved-build-questions-engine-compartment-27272/

They don't make the charcoal canister any longer, so trying to figure out what to do... right now concentrating on the items in the above thread.

Still have misc. bolt checking stuff... fluid stuff... electrical stuff... some aesthetic stuff... seat belts... storage... bikini... investigating upgrade to power brakes... Rush upgrade on distributor and wires (will wait until I'm sure everything is working as it is)...
 
Noticed something loose the other day and had time this morning to investigate.

Thought it was the front U-bolt spring nuts, but checked torque and all 16 okay according to the manual.

Discovered that the steering stabilizer mount is loose, but can't figure out how to tighten. Can't imagine it is supposed have play between the springs and axle.

The driver side of the stabilizer mount that runs up from the stabilizer and between the top of the springs and the bottom of the axle has some play. I don't see a way to tighten it. Like I said, the U-bolt nuts are torqued to 55 ft/lbs.

Any help on this one?

*******************

Other news:

Who the hell cross threads a shifter knob?! Picked up a couple of stop nuts and went to thread them on and found the main shift lever threads all boogered up. Ran a die and reformed the threads. Chased the nuts and shift knobs and all is now good. Got new shift pattern emblems on the original knobs.... man, that looks good.

********************

Had trouble with the Transmission engaging yesterday. Moved the 4WD shift lever through its pattern and then found that the main Transmission would not engage (acted like neutral). I had it in 2H but had no forward or reverse. Moved it to all positions and no change. Kept monkeying with it and the Transmission finally engaged; both forward and reverse. Problem is; I don't know what I did. Is there a sequence that I'm not aware of. I've never owned a 4WD anything.

*********************

Moved the rear axle vent higher up... the hose was hanging too far down in the wheel well. Found it when I was cleaning up the right rear taillight electrical connector...

*********************

Installed a new cowl vent gasket.

*********************

Installed new Rugged Ridge floor mats. Cut the hi-lo beam switch hole with a forstner bit... worked great. Mats are a perfect fit... highly recommend. The RR logo peels right off... didn't like them anyway.

*********************

Found that the heater intake door isn't working. I plan on doing a complete refurbish anyway, including the Blazer motor upgrade and making all new gaskets.

*********************

Spent yesterday doing mindless stuff... even installed a new set of caps and bumpers on the spare tire carrier...

*********************

I'm going to do more mindless stuff today... Jeep cowl decals and tailgate seal.
 
mdeluca said:
Who the hell cross threads a shifter knob?!
Click to expand...

My Transmission lever didn't have boogered threads - they were gone. Someone must have cross threaded that one cause whoever removed the knob took the threads with it. Twisted em right off. So I guess the same person that cross threads one also thinks it takes a gorilla to remove it.......


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
mdeluca said:
Had trouble with the Transmission engaging yesterday. Moved the 4WD shift lever through its pattern and then found that the main Transmission would not engage (acted like neutral). I had it in 2H but had no forward or reverse. Moved it to all positions and no change. Kept monkeying with it and the Transmission finally engaged; both forward and reverse. Problem is; I don't know what I did. Is there a sequence that I'm not aware of. I've never owned a 4WD anything.
Click to expand...

With the Transmission in gear, clutch in, complete stop for 4 wheel drive low. Same when going back to 2 wheel drive. Sometimes this feels like it's sticking, in that case a little wiggle the Jeep with the clutch, may help it engage and disengage. For 4 wheel drive high you can do the same thing or if you moving at a low speed you should be able to shift into 4 wheel high no problems. If you encounter a problem then use the process for 4 wheel low. Low speeds is below 20 mph.
 
I would be checking the oil level in both the tranny and t'case PDQ.
LG
 
Peanut Butter said:
With the Transmission in gear, clutch in, complete stop for 4 wheel drive low. Same when going back to 2 wheel drive. Sometimes this feels like it's sticking, in that case a little wiggle the Jeep with the clutch, may help it engage and disengage. For 4 wheel drive high you can do the same thing or if you moving at a low speed you should be able to shift into 4 wheel high no problems. If you encounter a problem then use the process for 4 wheel low. Low speeds is below 20 mph.
Click to expand...

Thanks... must have done some of that unwittingly and got it back into gear.

Lumpy Grits said:
I would be checking the oil level in both the tranny and t'case PDQ.
LG
Click to expand...

I plan on changing fluids in both and differential in the next month... already got my fluid pump. Have to figure out what types go where. Any suggestions?

Also will be flushing brake lines.
 
Syn manual oil for the tranny, Std 80-90 gear weight oil for the t'case, and axles.
I do STRONGLY recommend to you. To find a copy of the factory service manual(MR-252).
I would NOT drive it, till the oil levels have been ck'd. You want the oil to be at the bottom of the fill hole with the Jeep sit'n on level ground.
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Syn manual oil for the tranny, Std 80-90 gear weight oil for the t'case, and axles.
I do STRONGLY recommend to you. To find a copy of the factory service manual(MR-252).
I would NOT drive it, till the oil levels have been ck'd. You want the oil to be at the bottom of the fill hole with the Jeep sit'n on level ground.
LG
Click to expand...

I've got the manual... thanks.

Thanks for the info.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$25.00
This donation drive ends in
Contribute
Back
Top Bottom