Build Thread Mike's 1986 CJ7 (Mid Year) Rebuild

[jafo]

Shum8: It is like finding free money.

jafo: Thanks. Yeah, I couldn't distinguish a bolt either… just looked like linear rust.

I didn't get a good shot of it, but decided on a new custom exhaust.. all welded, nothing clamped. He also did a nice off-road hanging system


Decided not to go with the louder, performance muffler. I've had enough of that with the Road King. From what I've been able to gather, with the IL6, it wasn't going to make much of a difference anyway.

So we cranked it…. then the new starter solenoid stuck open. Had to disconnect the battery, go get another solenoid, hook it up and, after a backfire up the carburetor and installing a missing manifold plug, it turned over…

It's ALIVE…!!!

Sounds nice and even. Starts right up. Choke works.

Awesome! I was standing there today kind of imagining my jeep being your jeeps color. The repaint itch is starting to creep in.:drool:

I got a question on your exhaust. Your cj is an inline 6 or v-8? I was looking at your pic and is it facing towards the front? I ask because I was looking for the skid plate/ cross member. I don't see it. My '79 may be different. My cj has a v-8 and the y-pipe comes over to the drivers side along the frame rail and then straight back. It travels through and over this huge skid plate / cross member and on to the back. I'd eventually like to run a set of headers but don't know if shorty or long headers would be better. I like the exhaust out the back though. I've seen exhaust exited out the side under or just past the doors and there is usually rust holes right there.

 

[shum8]

I wouldn't think it would be too bad adding power brakes. Just swapping components? Power brakes are very nice.

Should just be a booster and reservoir, I would think. But I may be dumb as a hammer - we'll see.

As for power brakes being nice, yes they are. In most cars you have braking and swerving at your disposal..... in a CJ all you have is braking. And bracing for impact. NO swerving......


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[Petescj]

Should just be a booster and reservoir, I would think. But I may be dumb as a hammer - we'll see.

As for power brakes being nice, yes they are. In most cars you have braking and swerving at your disposal..... in a CJ all you have is braking. And bracing for impact. NO swerving......


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Think you need a proportioning valve as.

 

[mdeluca]

Awesome! I was standing there today kind of imagining my jeep being your jeeps color. The repaint itch is starting to creep in.:drool:

I got a question on your exhaust. Your cj is an inline 6 or v-8? I was looking at your pic and is it facing towards the front? I ask because I was looking for the skid plate/ cross member. I don't see it. My '79 may be different. My cj has a v-8 and the y-pipe comes over to the drivers side along the frame rail and then straight back. It travels through and over this huge skid plate / cross member and on to the back. I'd eventually like to run a set of headers but don't know if shorty or long headers would be better. I like the exhaust out the back though. I've seen exhaust exited out the side under or just past the doors and there is usually rust holes right there.

I'll get a better picture soon. Its an IL6 and you're looking at the rear driver side tire. I remember a cross frame skid plate laying about. I'll have to ask Adam about it.

I decided to go stock in terms of the exhaust exiting out the back. I do like the look of the side pipes tho'. I've read where the side pipes are loud and the exhaust fumes come into the cab area at stops. I keep telling myself, "keep it simple, keep it stockish." Yeah, thats it... "stockish"

 

[mdeluca]

Should just be a booster and reservoir, I would think. But I may be dumb as a hammer - we'll see.

As for power brakes being nice, yes they are. In most cars you have braking and swerving at your disposal..... in a CJ all you have is braking. And bracing for impact. NO swerving......


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I've been researching this add on and think I'm going to do it.

Think you need a proportioning valve as.

So far, my research is indicating that the proportioning valve is the same. The brake lines will need to be extended as the master cylinder moves forward some. Right now I'm seeing 7", 8", and 9" diameter boosters with the 8" seeming to be the predominant size shown for the CJ7 .

Can you guys take a couple of pictures of your power brake/master cylinder set up showing the brake lines attached to the master cylinder and post it up here. Also note which diameter booster you have with an IL6. Thanks.

This is what I'm finding:

 

[Posi]

...and address pedal ratio.

 

[mdeluca]

...and address pedal ratio.

Yes, some of the kits have the linkage to the pedal.

 

[jafo]

I've been researching this add on and think I'm going to do it.



So far, my research is indicating that the proportioning valve is the same. The brake lines will need to be extended as the master cylinder moves forward some. Right now I'm seeing 7", 8", and 9" diameter boosters with the 8" seeming to be the predominant size shown for the CJ7.

Can you guys take a couple of pictures of your power brake/master cylinder set up showing the brake lines attached to the master cylinder and post it up here. Also note which diameter booster you have with an IL6. Thanks.

This is what I'm finding:

Mine is similar to what you are showing. Size and all. I'll take a pic today and post it up.

On your manual set up, are the front disk also or drum?

I hear you on keeping it stockish when it comes to exhaust. I've seen the side exhaust and it looks good and is probably much easier to deal with, less pipe, hangers and bends and all. But I like the rear exiting pipe over side exit simply because of the fumes and the potential of rusting the tub out over time. I've seen exhaust eat metal alive and not just on jeeps. Just my opinion an what I've seen.

 

[mdeluca]

Mine is similar to what you are showing. Size and all. I'll take a pic today and post it up.

On your manual set up, are the front disk also or drum?

Rear drum and front disc.

I'm wondering if the bracket is the new linkage to the pedal... not sure.

 

[jafo]

Rear drum and front disc.

I'm wondering if the bracket is the new linkage to the pedal... not sure.

I don't get what you're saying about the bracket. How does your manual brake cylinder compair to the pic you put up?

Do you need a pic of the brake pedal connection also?

I got one of the brake booster and MC but will get one of the pedal hook up from inside. Probably won't get pics up til later.

Not knowing, just guessing, looks like sll you would need is the booster and master cylinder. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to run all new brake lines to be safe. I would think there would be a boost in line pressure with power brakes over manual?

 

[mdeluca]

I don't get what you're saying about the bracket. How does your manual brake cylinder compair to the pic you put up?

Do you need a pic of the brake pedal connection also?

I got one of the brake booster and MC but will get one of the pedal hook up from inside. Probably won't get pics up til later.

Not knowing, just guessing, looks like sll you would need is the booster and master cylinder. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to run all new brake lines to be safe. I would think there would be a boost in line pressure with power brakes over manual?

Can't get back to the jeep to get pics for a couple of days. I read that there is a different length rod which affects the throw of the pedal. Not sure if that if part of the linkage in the new firewall mount or something separate. I need to look at it again.

I think the lines and proportioning valve are the same... so I'm hoping just the MC, booster, and firewall bracket will do it; that and extending the lines. It appears to me that some just spread out the coils coming off the MC to extend the lines.... it might just be lengthening the lines off the proportioning valve to the MC. Again, I've got to look and see how it all goes together.

 

[Dphillip]

Here is a picture of my set up. The booster is a dual diaphragm from a Chevy truck, the master cylinder is from a 3/4 ton Chevy van with 4 wheel disc brakes. I've also run a brace from the back of the booster to the firewall to support things. Those heavy master cylinders put so much weight and stress on those thin metal boosters that my previous booster became cracked causing a vacuum leak.

 

[jafo]

Sorry I haven't gotten back sooner. I've been bogged down running down issues on the Jeep.

I'll try and get those pics up asap.

 

[jafo]

This is what I have so far.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Make sure those hard lines do not touch or rub on the body.
LG

 

[Peanut Butter]

In fact the curl of the line coming out of the MC is there to absorb the vibration difference between the frame and the body. A straight tight connection may eventually cause a split in the tubing.

 

[Posi]

^^
Exactly what I thought when I first looked at his pics, (no coils).

 

[jafo]

I didn't realise you all were refering to my brake MC until you mentioned the lack of coils. I realised they should probably be incorporated into the lines but didn't think it was that big a deal as I plan on replacing the entire brake line system down the road. The kit I'm looking at has the curl in the brake lines already. I've seen brake systems with no curl in the lines, and they worked fine. Not thinking about the longevity. I'll always incorporate the curls in brake lines from now on. This was the way it was when I bought the jeep so they must be replacements. I don't think there is enough line there for me to disconnect and curl. I have some nice tube benders to use also.

Good info, thanks.

 

[jafo]

OK. I got the other pics. These are the inside by the brake pedal. I hope it helps.

 

[mdeluca]

OK. I got the other pics. These are the inside by the brake pedal. I hope it helps.

Thanks man… so it looks like the linkage to the brake pedal is part of the firewall mounting bracket. The bracket for power booster is different than the manual one directly from the master cylinder. That was my question.

So I'm thinking that the kit that includes the master cylinder, booster, and bracket is all that I need… besides some way to extend the brake lines to the master cylinder itself.

The extended brake lines can be achieved one of two ways: either extend the coils horizontally to reach over to the relocated master cylinder or cut the brake lines between the firewall and the new master cylinder and insert a couple of custom steel extensions (keeping the coiled portion of the lines attached to the master cylinder).