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Need help with mc2150 carburetor upgrade!

Need help with mc2150 carburetor upgrade!

76cj7chick

Old Time Jeeper
Posts
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Location
WA
Vehicle(s)
1976 CJ7 Jeep with a engine/tranny/wiring harness out of a 1988 s10 blazer 4.3l v6 with th700r4 automatic tranny and a cj7 Dana 300 transfer case with Novak adapter.
Complete wiring harness from the s10 blazer. Painted with HOT PINK Pearl paint with standard sized metallic halographic pink flakes. Painted by me -a newb. New rear, front and side three wire LED lights, New parts, new custom dash-by me And a lot of guidance from fellow jeepers and lots of prayers etc.... :p
Hi all!

I recently picked up a MC 2150 carburetor with 1.08 venturi from my local junk yard and need all the help to rebuild it and install on my 76 CJ7 ...

(It came off a 1981 Ford LTD Crown Vic with 302 v8) -Willit work first of all on my CJ7 ?)
I wrote down the vin number but it didn't have a tag on it... :(




I switched out the "married" intake and exhaust manifold for a intake manifold off a 1985 CJ7 (2 bbl) and a aftermarket cast iron exhaust manifold.

I also need help with hooking up the heat riser on my "newer" intake manifold...

Checked the jets and they were both 50 -so ordered a pair of 48 jets (live in the northwest)... Does that sound right?

I am thinking of getting a carburetor rebuild gasket kit, power valve, float and choke pull off... Any suggestions? Part numbers would be AWESOME!


What do I need to do next??:notworthy:
 
There are a number of step by step manuals on line with pictures. Just search mc2100/2150 rebuild. That's what I did and found one to walk me through my first rebuild.
 
Thanks Thistle3585 for your reply. I've already done some research on the build but was hoping for step by step... The only carb experience I have is with a over-jetted weber... :0
Would you know of a specific site?
Also, the carb I have has the kickdown linkage (good thing because I have the GM Turbo 400 in my jeep)
I just don't know how to hook it up. :(
But I will go ahead and continue to research the swap.
 
Also,
Any one know if I can get a tag made for the carburetor if I know which vehicle it came off of?
I've read the first letter on the tag for 80's mc2150 is an "E"
Just need to know the other numbers and letters for my specific carb. I know its probably not needed but I would like to have it for my own reference. :)

Again, the mc2150 carb with 1.08 venturi I got is from a 1981 ford crown victoria LTD country squire with 302 v8 and automatic Transmission :cool:... So if anyone knows what the tag should read please let me know... :rolleyes:
 
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f97/motorcraft-autolite-2100-2150-carburetor-thread-11924/

I suggest you start here.

I think there is a page in here that will help decipher what the tag would have said if it had been there.

The 2100/2150 is so easy to rebuild that it is almost disappointing. :D

I recommend the gallon can of carb cleaner and let it soak for a couple days after you dismantle it, blow air through ALL the ports and passages, (I missed one and it was a PITA to figure out after it was back together), Have a large clean flat surface to work on, an old white towel will give you a surface that is easy to see small parts on and things won't roll around on, DO NOT remove the throttle plates from the shaft as they are a bit of a pain to recenter and will make things run rich for no obvious reason.:cool:

One day Elwood will finish this thread and it will be epic and Jeep guys will speak his name in reverent whispers and songs will be written about him.

But until then this is still a pretty good thread.:D
 
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f97/motorcraft-autolite-2100-2150-carburetor-thread-11924/

I suggest you start here.

I think there is a page in here that will help decipher what the tag would have said if it had been there.

The 2100/2150 is so easy to rebuild that it is almost disappointing. :D

I recommend the gallon can of carb cleaner and let it soak for a couple days after you dismantle it, blow air through ALL the ports and passages, (I missed one and it was a PITA to figure out after it was back together), Have a large clean flat surface to work on, an old white towel will give you a surface that is easy to see small parts on and things won't roll around on, DO NOT remove the throttle plates from the shaft as they are a bit of a pain to recenter and will make things run rich for no obvious reason.:cool:

One day Elwood will finish this thread and it will be epic and Jeep guys will speak his name in reverent whispers and songs will be written about him.

But until then this is still a pretty good thread.:D

Hey Thanks for the information! ;)

I've been researching the vehicle the mc2150 carb came off of but the vehicle MAY have originally had a variable venturi carb that the owner later put this 1.08 venturi carb on it... But there is not much information that I can find over the internet.. Or maybe its just what I type in the google search, or don't type in it. :confused: SO, if there are any ford carb gurus out there, I'd love to hear from you... AND if you could use pictures on helping to decide if I did in fact get the correct carb, I can post them too.

One other thing, the vehicle (1981 ford vic) was assembled in Canada.. I don't know if it would make a difference or not...:rolleyes:

Thanks again for your suggestions. :D

I will keep everyone up to date on the swap. I
 
From what I remember (and that's not much these days), the varible venture carb didn't have regular butterfly flaps but a roll up and back type of flap on the top of the carb. They were a real pain, as they were made of plastic and when heated expanded just enough to stick making the engine run rich. I had one on a 1982 Ford Galaxy 500 police car. Took it off and replaced it with a Holly. What a difference! As far as rebuilding your 2150, layout your rebuild parts, match them up with the parts that you remove, then after cleaning as you go, you should be able to reassemble. The hard part will be the adjustments once you have it running again. You should be able to find this on the internet. There are only a had full of adjusment points on the carb. Work on trying to get the correct idel, then good at running speed. You will have to wait for a cool morning to make final adjustments on the choke. Don't know how much help this is, but good luck. Rod
 
I quickly read over your post and did not see any questions about that adapter plate.

I picked mine up from GRONK Performance on here and it is fantastic. The price is a little bit more then the cheapo ones that are out there but the quality more then makes up for it. Ive had 3 friend swap from thier cheapo adapters with poor running jeeps to Gronks adapter and the idle smoothed out and got rid of the flat spots on acceleration.

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/great-2100-2150-adapter-plate-18082//

heres my post about my adapter.

As far as rebuilding goes to me the most difficult thing is setting the float height right.

Heres a file on rebuilding it.. make sure to take note of the part about blocking of the choke vacuum port

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf
 
Nice write up with pictures! Too bad ee don't have a spot on the main page to upload such filed. I have a parts manual in pdf that has really good exploded diagrams of everything oem, that I woild be eillinh to share. Rod
 
I finally got my junkyard carb and rebuilt it... I installed on my (85 CJ7 intake manifold) but on my 76 CJ7 jeep. I adjusted the float to 7/16", idle mixture screws are 1.5" out from seating and now I just need help with the choke adjustment, idle speed screw adjustment and choke pull-off screw adjustment -without starting jeep..

Anyone know the recommended initial choke and idle speed screw adjustments?
Here is the carb on my 1976 CJ7 jeep... I haven't started it yet.. Just want to make sure all the inital

And how do my linkages look? I made the bracket :o
What about my vacuum hoses? Do they look like they are in the correct spots?

Thanks in advance...:notworthy:

engine bay aug 28 2013.webp

homemade bracket for mc2150.webp

choke pulloff mc 2150.webp

jeep girl decal.webp
 
I quickly read over your post and did not see any questions about that adapter plate.

I picked mine up from GRONK Performance on here and it is fantastic. The price is a little bit more then the cheapo ones that are out there but the quality more then makes up for it. Ive had 3 friend swap from thier cheapo adapters with poor running jeeps to Gronks adapter and the idle smoothed out and got rid of the flat spots on acceleration.

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/great-2100-2150-adapter-plate-18082//

heres my post about my adapter.

As far as rebuilding goes to me the most difficult thing is setting the float height right.

Heres a file on rebuilding it.. make sure to take note of the part about blocking of the choke vacuum port

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf


Thanks for the suggestion. I tried to get the adapter plate from gronk but he took too long to respond. Perhaps he's really busy. Anyways, I just bought a thick larger gasket as many have suggested. Maybe one day I will try again to get the adapter plate but it would be best if he'd sell them individually so people don't have to request one. :D
 
Nice write up with pictures! Too bad ee don't have a spot on the main page to upload such filed. I have a parts manual in pdf that has really good exploded diagrams of everything oem, that I woild be eillinh to share. Rod


Hi Peanut butter,

How do I get a spot on the main page...:confused:
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried to get the adapter plate from gronk but he took too long to respond. Perhaps he's really busy. Anyways, I just bought a thick larger gasket as many have suggested. Maybe one day I will try again to get the adapter plate but it would be best if he'd sell them individually so people don't have to request one. :D

I have been waiting on a reply email from him for over a month in order to purchase a complete carb, adapter, linkage, air filter housing, the whole deal.......
Guess he gave up the gig?:confused:

Your CJ looks great BTW!:chug:
 
I have been waiting on a reply email from him for over a month in order to purchase a complete carb, adapter, linkage, air filter housing, the whole deal.......
Guess he gave up the gig?:confused:

Your CJ looks great BTW!:chug:

Wow! That's a long time to wait. I don't know if he gave it up or not. Just desperate to get the jeep running since it's my only vehicle. :(

I guess no one knows what the initial adjustments are supposed to be on the mc2150 carb, besides those that I already adjusted. :confused:

Thanks for the compliment. :)

Check out the before pic of my CJ7 ... :eek: -Still Its not as good as the mechanic vetrans.. But since its my first rebuild.. I will love it..:drool:

engine before doing anything.webp

cj-2compressed.webp
 
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I was able to start the jeep today... However the NEW exhaust manifold started to smoke so I turned off the jeep. The exhaust manifold was also hot to the touch but everything else was cold still.. ANY ONE KNOW WHY THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD GETS SOO HOT???:confused: -It is a new Cast iron exhaust manifold..

I also changed the radiator fluid and don't have any in the heater core and new/used intake manifold jacket yet... But the intake is cool to the touch...

PLEASE HELP!!!:(

I put a new thread up for this question... :)
 
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