Need to get - make new fuel and break lines

[TroyaCantrell]

I need to replace fuel and break lines on the 66, CJ6 . Cant seem to find any one who sales the fuel lines in a kit so i am thinking about cutting and bending my own. Now i have never done this but from the looks of it, it doesn't seem too bad and maybe my only option for new hard lines.

Now i need break and fuel, but fuel is the immediate need. I had to pull the tank last night, found it was leaking where the pickup line connects at the bottom. Once i got it out there was some rust on the tank too. Not bad but enough corrosion that it needs replaced too. Why I am at it the fuel lines have some corrosion on them as well and should be replaced. Also, the replacement tanks look to have slightly different locations for the fittings.

So i am looking for material suggestions, steel, stainless, or aluminum ?

Unless someone knows where I can get them pre-bent?

I would have to do steel for the breaks, i don't think you can do aluminum for break lines.

 

[BusaDave9]

So i am looking for material suggestions, steel, stainless, or aluminum ?

Unless someone knows where I can get them pre-bent?

I would have to do steel for the breaks, i don't think you can do aluminum for break lines.

True you need steel break lines. Actually there are no benefits to aluminum even for fuel lines.
As for bending the tubing, that's easy if you use a tube bender. And don't even think about bending fuel or brake lines without the correct tool.
Just make sure you get one for the correct diameter tubing. That can be a problem when using the bender in this next pic. If it's not for the correct size tubing it can kink your tube.

Some are for multiple sizes of tubing like this one:

It is very easy to do. Most autoparts stores will sell you tubing. If the ends are not on you need a tube flaring tool. Make sure to get the correct size ends. There are many sizes. They do that on purpose so that when you are replacing the master cylinder or proportioning valve you don't accidentally connect the rear brakes where the front should be.

 

[Torxhead]

My brake and fuel lines are purchased from the local auto parts, they come in different sizes like 1/8,3/16/,1/4,5/16, and 3/8". They are of standard lengths with flared ends and have compression nut fittings on them. I try to get the ones that have some sort of plating on them for rust purposes, are made of soft steel and can be bent by hand fairly easy. Fittings for them are also available to adapt to other threaded componets and hose nipples also.

 

[TroyaCantrell]

My brake and fuel lines are purchased from the local auto parts, they come in different sizes like 1/8,3/16/,1/4,5/16, and 3/8". They are of standard lengths with flared ends and have compression nut fittings on them. I try to get the ones that have some sort of plating on them for rust purposes, are made of soft steel and can be bent by hand fairly easy. Fittings for them are also available to adapt to other threaded componets and hose nipples also.

So you buy pre-cut and flared straight ones and just bent them?

 

[TroyaCantrell]

Hey, say a video on putting sand in the tube before you bend it to keep it from collapsing, anyone done that or think it is necessary?

 

[tarry99]

Hey, say a video on putting sand in the tube before you bend it to keep it from collapsing, anyone done that or think it is necessary?

Troy:

Use the correct size bender and they will not kink..................forget about the sand! I like the stainless tubing better........ I double flare each end. Gets the tubing length fitting to fitting exact.

Buying pre-flared tubing is Ok if the lengths work out, otherwise you end up with a coil in a place you don't want to make up the extra length.
There are some online people like Inline Tube and others that do offer pre-bent kits............but on old Jeeps having every fitting in the exact location as the sample they built there kit to is usually wishful thinking!

If you do bend your own buy some extra and play with the radius and the amount of tubing required to make the bends to the fittings along with the flaring. It takes a little time to get it correct. The good news is there is not that many lines on a old Jeep.

 

[TroyaCantrell]

Troy:

Use the correct size bender and they will not kink..................forget about the sand! I like the stainless tubing better........ I double flare each end. Gets the tubing length fitting to fitting exact.

Buying pre-flared tubing is Ok if the lengths work out, otherwise you end up with a coil in a place you don't want to make up the extra length.
There are some online people like Inline Tube and others that do offer pre-bent kits............but on old Jeeps having every fitting in the exact location as the sample they built there kit to is usually wishful thinking!

If you do bend your own buy some extra and play with the radius and the amount of tubing required to make the bends to the fittings along with the flaring. It takes a little time to get it correct. The good news is there is not that many lines on a old Jeep.

Perfect, thanks Tarry. I will do some testing first.

 

[Torxhead]

Buying the premade stuff is probably the best way to go, I just can't wait that long. The premade stuff should be of a harder material and stainless will last longer, but here in SoCal rust is not a serious problem. I have had no issues bending the soft stuff but have also tried winding a spring around the tube to prevent kinking. I would suggest buying a piece an try it out for yourself.

 

[TroyaCantrell]

So thanks all for the advice, i am looking at for fuel line:

5/16" supply line
1/4 " return if in end up doing that

For breaks:
1/4" supply (MC to T)
3/16" from T to wheel cylinder.

I have not pulled the break lines to confirm size, just using a plastic gauge to compare OD, if anyone can confirm those off hand.

Looking at zinc coated steel.

Again, appreciate all the advice.