"New" '76 CJ5 - 10/27

[tobascofred]

Hey folks. Making some slow progress on my CJ. A couple of questions -

Has anyone done a disk brake conversion on their mid-70's CJ5 ? I am sure many folks have, so please post stories of the parts that you used, gottchya's (to include the common "calipers were supposed to fit stock wheels and didn't so I have to go with XYZ wheels, etc.) (I was bit with this when I rebuilt a 65 Nova...)

Has anyone installed a vacuum power brake booster on a non-boosted CJ? (If so, pieces, parts, gotchyas, etc.)

Anyone with experience with buying / installing complete new body? (pieces, parts, gottchyas (PPG)

Goofy question, but what work would you wish you could do if only the complete body was off, just frame running gear, wheels? (as you can see on the accompanying photos, I am in a position to do)

Thanks in advance for only information, tips, jokes, whatever.

tobascofred

 

[cglax6]

Welcome to the site!

I have a '76 CJ5 and recently did a front disc swap. I purchased a kit from Horsepower Sales, LLC. He has a shop on ebay, but do a google search and you can find his phone number. Very friendly and knowledgeable guy. I think with no bells and whistles, he sells his kit for $600 or so. All new parts. If you can figure out part numbers for each piece, you could probably get everything for cheaper. The extra money for me was worth it because I didn't want to hunt around for parts and run into any snags. There is zero modification needed for his kit...as far as installing everything. You will need to buy a new master cylinder designed for disc/drums and a proportioning valve. Sounds like you don't have a booster...there are plenty of folks that sell booster/MC/PV kits that bolt right in and fit just fine.

When I did mine, I also ran new brake lines for good measure. A few months before I did the swap, I had the brake line on the rear axel rupture on me, so I figured I'd overhaul the whole deal. It was a huge PITA, but totally worth it.

If I remember correctly, I don't think factory wheels will work with the kit I used because of clearance issues. Any modern style wheel 15" or bigger will fit just fine.

As far as installing a booster, I got mine from The Jeep Guy, and it comes as a kit...booster/MC/PV. It's a direct fit, bolt-on. If you buy it as a kit, it comes adjusted, so that's one less step you have to do when you install. Just don't forget to bench bleed that MC, or you'll always have braking issues. I have a AMC 304 , and there are no clearance issues. As far as the booster goes, you'll just need a vacuum line and a port to hook it up to. Looks like you have the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , so I can't tell you where it hooks up, but I'm sure a quick google search for '258 vacuum system diagram' will produce some good results.

If I had the body off like yours, I'd do the following:

-replace/coat all brake lines
-replace/coat all fuel lines
-replace shocks/springs (if they're old/tired)
-grind/coat axels if rust is present
-grind/coat frame if rust is present
-grind/coat steering gear if rust is present

I bought mine a couple years ago and the PO who restored it did a lot of things the right way, but I think towards the end, he just wanted to get it out of his garage, so a lot of stuff was done to just get it on the road. I've been fixing all of his shortcuts...like fuel system...There was 1 fuel line...no return or vent...no charcoal filter, no fuel filter. The suspension was garbage too. They were the original springs and flat as all get-out and he had put in 4 newer shocks...but they were 4 different lengths and 3 were bottomed out, so I was basically riding on the mounts. I like to do things right so I know the work will last. That's why my list above is pretty intense.

I'm done with my 'must complete' projects, and now I'm on my 'nice to have' list.

 

[tobascofred]

Thank you very mush for taking the time to write that all up. I am grinding off spot rust and hitting with rust rejuvenater - frame is in amazingly good shape - only surface rust. So, I took of the wheels and drums - guess what? Only old leaky wheel cylinders under the drums! LOL, I knew for $750 I would need to replace a tons of parts.

I've been in discussions with Jay @ overland - was planning to drive up to Toledo this morning to pick up a body but the one he had received had a pair of incisions from forklift forks... At least I found that out Monday rather driving up for nothing.

I am trying to get everything done under the tub area before dropping a tub on. At this point the major things I have left is installing a solid line for gas as well installing the new fuel tank I just received.

Thanks again for your information - I will be going with vacuum boost and a front disk brake upgrade. Got the parts to replace all of the missing rear drum parts today...

 

[cglax6]

I am grinding off spot rust and hitting with rust rejuvenater - frame is in amazingly good shape - only surface rust.

If you use POR-15, hit it with a rattle can of whatever after it cures because it doesn't like UV rays. And follow the directions for prepping...if you don't, it won't last. Most of the people who complain about it, didn't prep or apply correctly...or leave it exposed to the sun.

Several years ago, I had an open can of it on a small step stool in my garage and the dog knocked it over and a bunch dumped on my foot. Took more than a month for it all to come off.