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Old man emu YJ spring conversion

Old man emu YJ spring conversion
Not much today mostly tedious little things. Some electrical repairs. Finished the twin stick, measured for new drive shafts and adjusted the brake lines. (Still have to bleed them) Then just got to finish a few other small things like rewiring the radio and changing my throttle setup. (Moved the motor back)

I need to find the skull shifter knob that matches my main shifter for the new twin stick.

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Not much to add

I finished the wiring. Fixed my throttle cable, reinstalled my front bumper. (Heavy sucker dropped the front end just a tad which is good as it looks level now)

Still waiting on the drive shafts and still need to bleed the brakes then I can go for a test drive.

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Got my new drive shafts in. Just need to bleed the brakes and grease everything before I can test drive it

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Did you need the new driveshafts due to moving the engine location? Or do you recommend it with just the lift?

Just adding everything up in my head. 💰
 
Did you need the new driveshafts due to moving the engine location? Or do you recommend it with just the lift?

Just adding everything up in my head. 💰
I'm going to assume a combination of both but mainly the engine. I had to shorten the rear drive shaft and lengthen the front something close to an inch each way
 
I took tomorrow off. Won't be anywhere near as nice as today (mid 70s and sunny) but it will still be decent enough to test drive. I'll post more tomorrow
 
About the same weather here. I was out testing mine also..
 
Took her out for a test drive. I need an alignment now but that's simple. I have a slight drive line vibration. I read online people recommended a 6⁰ shim (yes steel not aluminum) those of you with similar size lifts what is your take/opinion

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Thinking about these (available in 2, 4, 6, 8⁰)


What else might I need I've never really messed with axle shims before
 
Driveline vibration should go away when the output shaft of the Transfer Case is parallel to the input shaft of the diff. The angle at both ends of the drive shaft should be the same. If you tilt the differential up, you will need a cardan joint on one end.

It's possible you can get away with less. It's possible, if you put the spacers in the skid plate, taking them out could fix it.

If you have one of these Angle Guage or something cheaper and quicker from the hardware store you can put it on each shaft and see the difference. Your rig doesn't have to be level, just need to know the difference in angle.
 
I watched a video about measuring for the angle and then found a calculator for it on tom woods drive shaft page. I'll measure it up this afternoon
 
Might have to look elsewhere for my vibration. One pic of the rear axle the other is the drive shaft. There not that far apart

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You’re right. From here, looks like you’re within 1.5 degree, or so.
Jeep’s on the ground and you’re measuring against 2 surfaces that should be parallel?
 
Jeep is sitting on the driveway right outside the garage door. I measured from the bottom of the axle (where the yoke connects) and the drive shaft itself

I need to steal (er I mean barrow) a line laser from work. I'm thinking when I moved the engine and re-did my skid plate I might have kicked it to far to the left. So while my angle is correct it might be out left to right. (Assuming the axle is centered and not messed up from the factory with misaligned pins)
 
Ah. Yes, that could be it.

Or, maybe it’s something to do with the new/shortened driveshaft? Could be seriously out of balance or the yoke could’ve been welded back on outa square or slightly outa phase?
 
The shop balanced the drive shaft. I called and asked and they even said they'd be willing to rebalance it if I wanted.

I'll know more Monday or Tuesday
 
The shop balanced the drive shaft. I called and asked and they even said they'd be willing to rebalance it if I wanted.

I'll know more Monday or Tuesday
Totally appreciate all the information you've put forth on this. Where did you get the driveshafts?
 

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