Rebuild or Jasper..

[Dan77CJ7]

I'm having trouble making a long term decision. I was going to ask this question in the "O.O.P. Thread" but i though this might be better placed with engine questions or concerns.

Should I:

A: Have my motor Rebuilt: "AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l amc AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l block is baked cleaned,bored .030,deck milled flat,new oil control cam bearings and brass freeze plugs. Crank is ground .010-.010. Head is baked and shotpeened,new valve guides,valve job,milled flat. New ISKENDERIAN cam and lifters,SPEED-PRO pistons,CLEVITE bearings,ENGINE-PRO timing chain. New DORMAN valve cover," this is a quote i got from a local engine shop for $2400

Or

B: Go with a jasper reman for the warranty? cost is about $2350 basic build.

like always, any help is appreciated, thanks.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Do it yourownself. Not only a good learn'n experience-There's that 'pride-thing' that comes into play here.
You will need some special tools here-
LG

 

[CJim7]

100%
It's also a huge benefit to future diagnosis of your own engine. That, and it takes a lot of the mystery out of what's under your hood.

 

[mtnwhlr]

What I did was tore it all down and took it to a good machine shop. They Bored it 40 over resized the crank and rods because it had one spun bearing and they installed the new pistons on the rods and did a valve job on the head. I got all the parts from them because they did the machine work and knew what to get. I picked it all up and brought it home and reassembled it. It was not all that hard and alot of fun and I saved a grand.

 

[tarry99]

Option A..........but first get a few quotes from other competent machine shops within the area, and perhaps also ask for some referrals.........
and although you have some detail here on what you may expect to get there should be further detail on many unknowns.

Is this quote with them assembling this motor or just for parts and machine work?

Here are a few things to think about:

If the bore doesn't clean up at .030 is there any additional cost to go larger? Same question on the Crankshaft as it may clean up at .010 and .010 and it may not. You say there taking .030 off the deck and also going to mill the head some???Hopefully someone is doing the math for piston to valve clearance especially with a new Camshaft.
New valve guides are great , but ask if they are installing an aftermarket valve stem seal on the guides? While there ask if hardened exhaust valve seats should also be considered? What are they shot-penning? If it's the Rods are they also re-sizing them? In either case the rods should be re-sized.
What about the Rocker arms and shaft? are they doing anything there? An old motor will normally need some attention to the overhead assembly.
I see no gasket set mentioned nor seals or piston rings..........also when adding larger / heavier pistons the reciprocating weight of the rotating assembly gets heavier and may also need to be re-balanced.......ask the question?

If your going to assemble this yourself you will need a basic education on the tools and procedures to do so..........including the proper cleaning of the block and parts after the machine work is done prior to assembly..............

I agree with others here that the experience can both be rewarding and educational and also feel that your motor will be a much better than one that you would receive in a box.

 

[hole]

I've only had one experience with Jasper and it was a good one
That said, I'd probably look hard at a local builder if I knew my core parts were good. When I went the Jasper route my block was junk, so it was an easy decision.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Let the engine builder guide you here. It's NOT his first day.
You really don't want to go past .060 in the cylinder overbore due to the thinning of the walls.
Also have him micro-polish the crank's main and con-rod bearings, along with adding a bevel to the oil holes.
LG

 

[Dan77CJ7]

Option A..........but first get a few quotes from other competent machine shops within the area, and perhaps also ask for some referrals.........
and although you have some detail here on what you may expect to get there should be further detail on many unknowns.

Is this quote with them assembling this motor or just for parts and machine work?

Here are a few things to think about:

If the bore doesn't clean up at .030 is there any additional cost to go larger? Same question on the Crankshaft as it may clean up at .010 and .010 and it may not. You say there taking .030 off the deck and also going to mill the head some???Hopefully someone is doing the math for piston to valve clearance especially with a new Camshaft.
New valve guides are great , but ask if they are installing an aftermarket valve stem seal on the guides? While there ask if hardened exhaust valve seats should also be considered? What are they shot-penning? If it's the Rods are they also re-sizing them? In either case the rods should be re-sized.
What about the Rocker arms and shaft? are they doing anything there? An old motor will normally need some attention to the overhead assembly.
I see no gasket set mentioned nor seals or piston rings..........also when adding larger / heavier pistons the reciprocating weight of the rotating assembly gets heavier and may also need to be re-balanced.......ask the question?

If your going to assemble this yourself you will need a basic education on the tools and procedures to do so..........including the proper cleaning of the block and parts after the machine work is done prior to assembly..............

I agree with others here that the experience can both be rewarding and educational and also feel that your motor will be a much better than one that you would receive in a box.

The quote is parts,assembly,gaskets,rings,seals,bearing, balanced and blue printed... everything.. i'll have to bring them the motor.

Im on the fence about doing the work myself, I want it done at the end of may, going on a road trip to yellowstone then to WA. and down the coast. I understand that building my own would be an ideal way to go but i know my limitations. when i retire.... I'll have all the time in the world to rebuild my motors but for now i want to job done right.

iv been saving for this two years and i dont have any "oopps i fugde'd up money" My pride won't be hurt if i have this built.

 

[Dan77CJ7]

Let the engine builder guide you here. It's NOT his first day.
You really don't want to go past .060 in the cylinder overbore due to the thinning of the walls.
Also have him micro-polish the crank's main and con-rod bearings, along with adding a bevel to the oil holes.
LG

Ill be sure and mention that, to the shop i end up choosing.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Ask any shop, what their warranty is if the engine goes TU many miles from them.
I would put at least 500+ miles on a new engine before any trip. You will need to re-torque head-bolts etc. and chase a few leaks.
Then do your first oil change and send some of that oil in for a user oil annalists. That will tell you of possible issues down the road.
LG

 

[Dan77CJ7]

My motor I think is in good shape, although it does have load "clack" its a flat lifter, i prolly could get away with just fixing the lifters of course it wouldnt just be the lifters, i do pushers, have the head done..etc... all the good stuff.

I fact, i know i could. what im trying to get is a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with 0 miles, its all i think about day and night, sometime i leave work early... (only if it doesnt cause more work) just so i can really concentrate on my CJ and what she needs.

I should of mentioned this in my OP, its a few lists... in order

1: REBUILD ENGINE!!!!

2: Rough country 2.5 lift, drop pit arm, R/R heavy duty tie rod drag link, New gear box/M.O.R.E bracket, Borgeson steering shaft

3: Yukon 4.10s, with detroit T/T, Goodyear durtrac's 32-11.50-15, Warn hubs, Riddler diff covers.

I feel with these upgrades, i'll be happy for a year..-ish And i promised myself i would only do one list at a time. In theory keeping it mobel and running everyday.

Damn, the more i type the more i realize how much work i have ahead of me..I mean FUN

Please feel free to suggest anything i may be missing, words of wisdom are always welcome.

 

[Dan77CJ7]

Ask any shop, what their warranty is if the engine goes TU many miles from them.
I would put at least 500+ miles on a new engine before any trip. You will need to re-torque head-bolts etc. and chase a few leaks.
Then do your first oil change and send some of that oil in for a user oil annalists. That will tell you of possible issues down the road.
LG

Thanks, thats a really good idea about the oil. im hoping to get the motor out this week if not this weekend for sure. yeah i'd break in the motor before my trip. Its more, i'd really like to take the CJ on the road trip but if she isnt ready i wont risk it. Iv got a plan B.

 

[Dan77CJ7]

pictures...

 

[Dan77CJ7]

More pictures...

 

[Dan77CJ7]

Couple more..and my old beetle..66'

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Sure like your 'helper' in the second picture.
Looks all OEM under the hood as to the wiring etc.
KWEL 'bug'
LG

 

[Dan77CJ7]

Sure like your 'helper' in the second picture.
Looks all OEM under the hood as to the wiring etc.
KWEL 'bug'
LG

Yeah, i went to open the tailgate and BAM shes in there! right after i took the picture i told her to jump out and she gave me "that look" and bounced into the shotgun seat. she dont like when i leave in the CJ without her. she even knows the sound the CJ keys make and starts whining..

It took me along time to find a clean one with all the OEM wiring and smog gear that was cheap!. Im plan on keep every bit of it too.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Is this engine 'V' belt or serpentine?
LG

 

[Dan77CJ7]

Is this engine 'V' belt or serpentine?
LG

its V belt?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Ok-That sez it's a '49 state' Jeep and not the CA. model.
LG