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Build Thread Rocky Mountain 85 CJ7

Build Thread Rocky Mountain 85 CJ7
Well, almost. Now it's time to clean up things. Remove anything that went into the emissions from the old carb if you also did the nutter bypass as I did. You also want to plug off any nipples exposed on anything. (In pic 3 above you can see the brake booster nipple is capped). Here is a pic of all I took out (Pic 1) and in (pic 2) you can see the final running set up. Make sure you pump the gas a bit and turn the key a few times to fill the bowl, but mine started right up on about the third crank. Lastly, the gaskets that came with the carb were really thin that went between the carb and adaptor, so I bought one at Napa that was nice and thick and the model number is on (pic 3) if you care to use that one if you bought have the same problem. No leaks on anything. Don't forget to check and set your timing. Hope this helps everyone out. Vids are coming...I haven't figured out how to edit them yet.
 
Just a couple of ?s where did you get our did you make the piece for the throttle cable to hook to and where did you get the adaptor from? :)
 
The MC2150 I ordered came with the adaptor plate, bolts for that plate, bolts and nuts for the carb, the throttle spring brace and the throttle link plate you pointed out. Plus the gaskets, however like I pointed out I bought an extra gasket cause I wanted a better one. PM me and I will give you the contact info for the MC2150. Oh, it also comes with jets for your area or whatever size you want installed.
 
Nice work !!
And nice write up !!
:chug:

Interested to know in a few weeks of driving how you think it goes.
I'd imagine it should be heaps better, but would still like to hear your thoughts ...
 
Thanks mate! Right now the difference is night and day. It was - 3 degrees two mornings ago and it cranked right up. Still don't have the power I want in Overdrive , but this weekend am going to be adjusting the timing and doing a vac check to see about fixing that problem. I also plan on a team rush upgrade here very soon...loving working on the jeep and watching it come to life.

This next summer I have to learn to weld...after seeing all you can fabricate I just have to start. Very cool skill to have.
 
I did the Mc210 swap on my 85. It really helped the starting issues and smoothed all the hesitation out of mine. I also did the Team Rush with the Nutter Bypass. I was very happy. Next time around I think Im going to index some of those E3 plugs along with it. ;)

Thanks mate! Right now the difference is night and day. It was - 3 degrees two mornings ago and it cranked right up. Still don't have the power I want in Overdrive , but this weekend am going to be adjusting the timing and doing a vac check to see about fixing that problem. I also plan on a team rush upgrade here very soon...loving working on the jeep and watching it come to life.

This next summer I have to learn to weld...after seeing all you can fabricate I just have to start. Very cool skill to have.
 
Finally got the nutter bypass vid done and uploaded. It's a little rough, but I am learning as I go...still can't get it to load in vid section... :confused: feedback is welcomed as I work on the mc2150 carb install vid next.

Jeep CJ 7 nutter bypass - YouTube
 
Was messing around under the jeep and noticed this. (see pic) I suspect it is from the 2 in body lift...but it may have been there before and is normal. Is this a problem that I need to get on? I have driven it a bit and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary...shake, shim..nothing.

While I am on the subject, one thing I did notice after the body lift was that when shifting into second, it tends to slip forward back into neutral if I hit a bump. I can hold it there and it does fine, but it isn't sitting all the way back. Is there a way to adjust this or do I need to trim the back part of the shifter hole under the boot?
 
Your driveshaft is fine what you are looking at is when your rear end moves up and down the splines on the shaft move in and out it's normal. And with the shifter I think it is hitting the floor and not letting it go all the way into gear that is also normal with a body lift you will need to trim the hole some.
 
Your driveshaft is fine what you are looking at is when your rear end moves up and down the splines on the shaft move in and out it's normal. And with the shifter I think it is hitting the floor and not letting it go all the way into gear that is also normal with a body lift you will need to trim the hole some.

Yeah I second that.
1. Driveshaft looks healthy meaning it's actually been greased this century. Just get a hand on it and wriggle it. If there's play it's gone, there should be no play and tight. It looks fine though.
2. Never had a body lift but sounds very plausible !! Definitely sounds like two different problems my friend.
 
I grabbed it like you would a big brown and shook the hell out of it...no play at all. Guess I will be trimming a bit of the floorboard though...simple enough and the boot will cover it anyway. Thanks for the input guys.
 
So today I fixed the shifter problem by cutting out a bit of the floorboard...no problems now. I also installed my new Skyjacker Steering stabilizer and new shocks. I didn't realize how bad the shocks were...I suspect they were the original shocks on this thing. After I pulled them off and collapsed them, they didn't ever open up again...totally dead. I will let you know how it drives tomorrow.
 
So today I fixed the shifter problem by cutting out a bit of the floorboard...no problems now. I also installed my new Skyjacker Steering stabilizer and new shocks. I didn't realize how bad the shocks were...I suspect they were the original shocks on this thing. After I pulled them off and collapsed them, they didn't ever open up again...totally dead. I will let you know how it drives tomorrow.

Super keen to know how they go. I was looking at those or a set of Rubicon Express .... I ended up thinking oil might be a better ride with the gas being to hard .. ??
They look great. Definitely keen to know how they ride !!
 
Well, I gotta say the highway ride is great! Really smoothed out the ride and seem to have a bit more control at higher speeds. They also do great in the snow..well, show covered dirt roads...some with some pretty serious washboard and absorbed those with no problem and no rear end buck. I like um so far. These were the heavier duty ones that Skyjacker makes....better for off road so they say.

Lastly...the cutting of the floorboard didn't fix the shifting out of second problem...it still slides back into nutural while driving...so I am now thinking it is something to do with the linkage but not sure how the lift would have effected that...gonna have to pull the floor board I guess....any ideas anyone?
 
I am new to the forum and just finished reading the entire thread. There is some great information so thank you. I am in the process of doing very similar upgrades on my CJ5 .

There are a couple threads in the drivetrain section about the Transmission slipping back into neutral. I am experiencing the same thing only from fourth. When I spoke with the folks at Novak they mentioned I should take a look at the input gear clutch. Hopefully I get a chance to look is weekend.

Thanks once again and I look forward to reading what you discover with yours.
 
Thanks Buckeye...i am trying to document all I do as payback for all the help I have gotten here. I am working on my shifting problem today...will let you know how it turns out.

Where in Colorado are you?
 
Ok...call me cheap. I was wanting to get a rock screen for my radiator, but seeing how they cost about $50 bucks, I went to Lowe's and picked up what you see in pic 1 for 6 bucks. Cut and attached and now I have a rock screen to protect my new radiator. Took about 15 minutes to measure, cut and install. I should have painted it black, but since it is only 5 degrees outside I decided I like it the way it was. :D
 
Looks like a bit of a production line - Where's mine ?? :D
I have to make another one too. I made one out of some mesh I got but it was too flimsy.
 

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