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Build Thread Starting from the frame 1977 CJ5

Well, my Nickel.95.......

In projects of this magnitude,
I often go out and Buy a Donor Vehicle close in year of manufacture, to steal these very parts off of.

Power brakes is usually a "Plug and Play" swap. Just get the link to the Pedal, and adjust it to the correct length. The Mounting holes are usually already there.
ALSO Get the Check Valve in the Vacuum supply line on install.

If you go on a Parts Safari at a Pick n Pull yard, just get everything, pedals, brackets, booster and everything will match.

For front fenders, check online.
There are some decent sets coming out of Korea that are Affordable.
The rest, again a Parts Safari, that's a big list. Plan a Lunch Stop between different Junk Yards ....

FYI, it is -2°F here this morning having my POD Coffee.
 
Just now saw this post so comment a bit late, but having learned to mig weld the old fashioned way...practice on scrap was nice to see clean beads. Your buddy did a pro job looks like. Now grind, clean, grind make pretty and paint and now don't worry about bending frame stuck on NC beach...Grin.
 
Well, my Nickel.95.......

In projects of this magnitude,
I often go out and Buy a Donor Vehicle close in year of manufacture, to steal these very parts off of.

Power brakes is usually a "Plug and Play" swap. Just get the link to the Pedal, and adjust it to the correct length. The Mounting holes are usually already there.
ALSO Get the Check Valve in the Vacuum supply line on install.

If you go on a Parts Safari at a Pick n Pull yard, just get everything, pedals, brackets, booster and everything will match.

For front fenders, check online.
There are some decent sets coming out of Korea that are Affordable.
The rest, again a Parts Safari, thats a big list. Plan a Lunch Stop between different Junk Yards ....

FYI, it is -2°F here this morning having my POD Coffee.
Part' safari sounds great. Right now I wouldn't last 5 min outside. To cold. I also have to do a lot of searching as most of the salvage yards and you pull it's are all modern cars, may take a bit of research to find an older yard with Jeeps in it.
 
Part' safari sounds great. Right now I wouldn't last 5 min outside. To cold. I also have to do a lot of searching as most of the salvage yards and you pull it's are all modern cars, may take a bit of research to find an older yard with Jeeps in it.
Wow they still have Jeep salvage yards ? I thought they were now like hens teeth and unicorns. There are probably still maybe a couple in Cali and Colorado maybe. Now there are a few hoarders that picked up everything a couple of decades ago at silver prices and selling at platinum prices now. :pissed:
 
Be creative.
I have a Place that is actually a Farm Equipment Junk Yard that has a Surprisingly amount of other STUFF !! Like army surplus equipment.
Back in the day, the Government had Auctions even in the local papers. Salvage Yard operators would buy at 10¢ on the Dollar or even at Scrap Ton Rates.
Another place, local Close out buyers, would buy out a entire Dealership inventory when they went out of business.
Get a Tetanus Shot and go Exploring.
 
It was 83 yesterday and probably also today so very nice for Jeep riding. But getting colder starting tomorrow night.
 
Just to Jump in .....
After several unusual days in mid 50's F, Winter returned last night and dumped 7" of new snow!!
But I spoiled myself when I built my Shop with in floor heating.
PXL_20260220_130923151.webp
And yes that is a Large White Pine branch blocking my driveway. I got the chainsaw out once it quit snowing after lunch and cut it up.
 
First,
That Screw Head with the Allen Head Socket has to be removed.
(Bottom left facing camera in picture of the Caliper)
Then you push the "Slide w/Spring Clip" out using a Hammer and punch. Caliper will drop, and swing out.
FIRST, take a Large C clamp and compress the Piston(s) back into the Caliper ALL the way.
 
First,
That Screw Head with the Allen Head Socket has to be removed.
(Bottom left facing camera in picture of the Caliper)
Then you push the "Slide w/Spring Clip" out using a Hammer and punch. Caliper will drop, and swing out.
FIRST, take a Large C clamp and compress the Piston(s) back into the Caliper ALL the way.
Thanks, I've never seen a set up like this before and was completely lost. Once I get it off I think I have it. I have done brakes and rotors on several vehicles.
 
I don't think you have it connected to the master cylinder,
But remove the fill cover if you do. Can't compress a liquid, and when pushing the pistons back, the fluid has to Go Somewhere !!
(Words of a Knuckle Head Move Experience.....)

These are Early Ford style Disc Calipers
 
Right now the front brake lines are still connected to the Master cylinder. But there is no pressure in the system as the rear is not connected. I will put a bucket under the open line just in case there is still fluid in it.

Is there anything special I should know about this set up. Can I still get pad and rotors for them if I can salvage the Caliper?
 
Yes,
Very Common Disc Brake System. You might want to replace the Equalizing Valve too since it was sitting "Open" for some time. They are Not That Expensive, and Easy Now to replace with no body in the way
 
These might be Original 1977 Jeep Brakes.
AMC used a lot of Other Mfr equipment.
Back in Ancient History, I had a DJ-5, it's ignition system was half Ford, and Chrysler!!
Also back then you almost needed what Shift it was built on for the Right Parts.....LOL
Take what you have for parts,
VIN number to a Non Big Box store Auto Parts House and they can Match Up what you have.
Like I said, common parts
 

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