T-150 to T-176 swap info

T-150 to T-176 swap info
I almost injured my Ego on this one. :laugh: But seriously , we're all out to get you the correct information. No hurt feelings here. When youve had as many different drivetrain combos and swapped in stuff as alot of Jeeps do it can cause your brain to overflow a little. When that happens someone else on here comes around with a mop and cleans it all up. :D
Buuushman said:
but at least with all the info your little skirmish :D supplied, I kinda know which direction my drivetrain will be going. Bushman
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That is the beauty of it,the golden eggs are in there, sometimes it just takes some time for the goose to let em' go;). I really appreciate everyones input and hope I have a few useful nuggets on occasion.

Thanks everybody:chug:\

Bushman
 
So you gotta spill the beans , which way are you leaning??
Buuushman said:
That is the beauty of it,the golden eggs are in there, sometimes it just takes some time for the goose to let em' go;). I really appreciate everyones input and hope I have a few useful nuggets on occasion.

Thanks everybody:chug:\

Bushman
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Well, it turns out the guy that supposedly bought everything never came through so I am waiting on a call back- T-176 Transmission $75 - T-5 & Dana 300 $200-
If I can get the front driveshaft from the CJ8 then it should be just some mounts and a new rear driveshaft and I'm good to go- ha-ha. We shall see how it works out.

Bush
 
Communication is difficult between humans at very best. So we invent things like the telephone to make it even more difficult and not learning anything from that we come up with E-mail and/or forums and such as that.
We try to have an entire conversation about a complex subject in three lines or less and then we can’t understand why we were misunderstood or even worse considered to be rude.
I spoke before doing the needed research and should have been asking questions not making statements.
I did gain a different outlook on the T-176 /7/8 and the possibilities with different combinations of TC and axle.
The T-18 was “the grail” but there is a bit of hesitation toward having a first gear that will not be used 99% of the time, even at 4:1 much less the 6:1. My thinking on this area had become very “uptight”
I am still looking for the information on the 3rd gear thing, it has been a year of two since I was researching this and I do not remember the source. I don’t think it was the voices inside my head; they very seldom talk about transmissions.
This thread was not one of my better efforts, I will work on it.
:cool:
 
just recently there was a post by someone that had pulled a T-176 from a J truck and wanted to find a short input shaft for it. Some one knew of a place and I do not remember who or where it was. does anyone remember this? I have hunted for about an hour trying to find it.:bang:
 
I'd give the guys a Novak a call for that.
Quoted from their site:

"The T177 and T178 are the J Series versions of this Transmission as supplied with the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l I6, and they feature significantly longer input shafts and bellhousing spacers to compensate for the deeper bulkheads of the FSJ Jeeps."

"The Tremec T-176 Transmission was the optional four-speed Transmission found in 1980 to 1986 Jeep CJ models."

"The Jeep T-176 has a 23 spline output shaft for connecting to the Transfer Case input shaft. The Transmission has a 7-1/2 input shaft (stick-out length) with 1-1/8 x 10 splines and a neoprene front bearing retainer assembly."
 
I am going to pick up the T-176 , T-5 , and Dana 300 tomorrow- we came to a price I can't refuse. What should I be looking for as far as checking out these units before buying them? They are all pulled out already and I am wondering if there are any bench type tests I can do on the spot to check for problems.

I will try to post the links:

Jeep dana 300 with 5 speed
Jeep T176 trans-tuff trans


Thanks, Bush
 
check the end play in the shafts, and take a look at the shuft rails from the top, the top depresses and turns counter clockwise to remove, make sure the rails don't look beat up. the same for the end of the gear shift. look for water in the fluid. thats everything I can think of.
 
O.K. some info on what I got-
These are the casting and tag #'s on the units I am planning on using- I don't know if they are useful to anyone or if any more info can be gleaned from them but I am posting them anyhow.

T-176 Transmission - side casting # c2604203- top cover casting #-c2604208
I.D. tag- ROKC 21 5359389 0625

Transfer Case tags- ser# 135787 Tag #2- 309007-1 5361994

The T-176 had water in it- what should I be looking for to determine if it is damaged? Can I just remove the top cover without a bunch of parts flying out to inspect the internals? I do not have much experience with the inner workings of trannies. It also came without the bellhousing- will the one from my T-150 swap over to it?

Any info is greatly appreciated.

Bushman
 
Your T-150 bellhousing has the correct bolt pattern. :)

Your T-176 wont spit parts at you while taking it apart. Start by removing the shifter and then the top cover plate. Obviously you'll then start looking for rust. If it sat for awhile with water in it odds are some rebuilding will be nessacary. Just spin the main shaft and look around carefully. You'll also be looking for any chipped teeth on the gears , worn synchros and metal shavings. Post pics of anything your unsure about.
 
Water in a tranny is no good, period. Unless the water JUST got into it, and was drained out and flushed. You may be looking at a costly rebuild. I would still give it a good looking at, and try to get it for a rock bottom price, then bring it to a shop for a good going over. Unless you're some kind of nut, a fresh 176 will outlast your jeep, and probably you. It is only my opinion, but as far as jeep standard shift trannies go, I use the T-150 , or the 18, while the T-150 is a tough Transmission , It's gearing leaves much to be desired. The T-150 and Dana 300 are a good choice for all but hard offroading, and will last you a very long time.
 
Pictures by buuushman - Photobucket

the inside seems pretty clean- a little wear & slight grooves on the front slot where the shift fork goes but it looks like the water got in after it was pulled.

Teeth & bearings look good and clean- about 1/8" play in the input shaft- what is normal for input shaft play?
 
Oh - and I got both the T-5 , T-176 , and Dana 300 for trade for some sheetmetal work on his CJ7 :D. Really nice guy- has 4 jeeps in various stages tucked around on his property. I did some work on the frame for his scrambler a few months back- small island.
 
this was the price you couldnt refuse then? The Transmission looks to be ok , but the overhead lighting is giving glare on it. You see it better than we do. Looks like you got it for a good price , but dont burn your bridges on that small island . :)

If your not seeing any real hard wear , like bad meshing of any gears and its rust free inside with good bearings you got yourself a deal even Im jealous of.

1/8th play? Is that a guesstimate? Check the bearings on the mainshaft again. Its common for them to be worn by now.

Buuushman said:
Oh - and I got both the T-5 , T-176 , and Dana 300 for trade for some sheetmetal work on his CJ7 :D. Really nice guy- has 4 jeeps in various stages tucked around on his property. I did some work on the frame for his scrambler a few months back- small island.
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I think you did good!!
If it were mine, and it isn't, I would drain it, take the top cover off, fill it with mineral spirits and turn it over for a few minutes, drain it , look for shrapnel, put the mineral spirits back in it and repeat 3 or four times. The mineral spirits will pick up any water that may be left and it is a petroleum distillate so you can blow it out with compressed air or even the shop vac will evaporate it . install it behind a new pilot bushing and drive it. I don't think 1/8 end play will be a problem and if you have a synchronizer about to go south I don't think you will know by looking at it. I am assuming it shifts fairly well setting on the bench??

A lot of the opinion I am offering is based on the fact that "it is a small island":cool:
 
IOPort51 said:
I think you did good!!
If it were mine, and it isn't, I would drain it, take the top cover off, fill it with mineral spirits and turn it over for a few minutes, drain it , look for shrapnel, put the mineral spirits back in it and repeat 3 or four times. The mineral spirits will pick up any water that may be left and it is a petroleum distillate so you can blow it out with compressed air or even the shop vac will evaporate it . install it behind a new pilot bushing and drive it. I don't think 1/8 end play will be a problem and if you have a synchronizer about to go south I don't think you will know by looking at it. I am assuming it shifts fairly well setting on the bench??

A lot of the opinion I am offering is based on the fact that "it is a small island":cool:
Click to expand...

Lissten to this man, he speaks of the truth.
 
well after cleaning all the gunk off of the Dana 300 I found this-<a href="http://s851.photobucket.com/albums/ab78/buuushman/?action=view&current=Dana 300 -2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab78/buuushman/Dana 300 -2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I want to twin stick this thing, so will I have to find another one of these/ will the one on my Dana 20 work instead?

Also the yoke for the front driveshaft got tore up- looks like somebody twisted a U-joint out of it- the bolt holes are stripped and one bolt is broken off.Will the one from my Dana 20 fit here also?

Thanks-

Bush
 
O.K.- I'll try again-
d-300-2.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
just use the photobucket image code. :) I copied and pasted. Not sure what your asking.
 
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