Team Rush ignition upgrade question

[Basod]

Been experiencing some random shudder - intermittent misfire.
It about left me stranded very deep in the middle of banjo country on Saturday.

Got all the parts coming for the ignition upgrade - just curious on the ballast wire? should I remove it? Any determent to the factory ICM?

Going to double check run/start voltages prior to replacement.
Replaced the ICM proactively due to the resin melting out the back of it (made in China https://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/images/smilies/censored.gif over a month ago and this misfire issue started soon after, I saved the original and plan on reinstalling it this afternoon and seeing if I can replicate the misfire.

Regardless it needs the ignition system tuneup as the coil clip is cracked and the wires are toasty.

 

[TnCJ]

Can't answer your questions but I am in about the same situation as you.
My entire ignition is probably what came on it when new and it needs to be replaced. I've gone back and forth on the team Rush upgrade or just going HEI.
I'm leaning towards the HEI as it is an all in one upgrade and it does away with the coil and ICM.
I just purchased a rebuilt AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and it still has the old points and condenser distributor on it. I'm either going to swap out my distributor or just bite the bullet and put an HEI in it.
From what I hear the team Rush is a good system so you can't go wrong going that route.

 

[Basod]

TnCJ I’d think where you’re starting at with eliminating points the hei distributor makes more sense. Unless you can find the MC dizzy in a junkyard- the rest of the parts are cheap and need to be replaced anyway.

I did some checking and have 5.75v with key in run full 12 at crank.
Tracing back appears red tracer from coil goes to a module/relay on PS fender below starter relay. The coil has additional red tracer that lands on what looks like a capacitor mounted to coil
Does that stay or go?

Cruising some other forums @jeephammer aka @team rush states the aftermarket icm’s being made of chinesium are suspect.


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[JeeperChris]

When I did this upgrade I was told to eliminate that resistance. My system (for whatever reason) did not have the resistor or resistance wire so I had nothing to take out -- the reason I'm saying this is, be sure you have that resistance in the first place. When I had everything hooked up I had a solid 12 volts at the coil which was sure proof that I did not have the resistance in place. Most systems do, I seemed to be an exception, but you should be aware that it can happen this way. I also did an MSD-6AL with mine.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Yes, remove it.
BTW, when was the last time you replaced the fuel filter?
How do you know it's a ignition based issue?
That horseshoe connector has left more folks stranded than you know
LG

 

[Basod]

Yes, remove it.
BTW, when was the last time you replaced the fuel filter?
How do you know it's a ignition based issue?

That horseshoe connector has left more folks stranded than you know
LG

Replaced fuel filter ~1 month ago, when it died this weekend verified the filter was full not vapor locked - smelled rich
Bought a three connector type filter as well, but I have a Carter YFA with a fuel return off the bowl. Figured if I tee'd into the return for the new filter I'd probably be flooding the bowl with bypass fuel. - later project when the new MC2150 shows up.

The misfire seems almost like its jumping time. Not during idle acceleration or shifting, cruising speed it gets an intermittent misfire, jeep bucks a bit then smooths out. It's not repeatable and arose after replacing the ICM.
Didn't get a chance to drive it with the original ICM last night

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Do you have the filter return line at the 12 0'clock position?
I would also confirm the float setting of the carb.
LG

 

[JeeperChris]

I've never seen a return line off a float bowl, they are vapor lines.

I'll have to look at one of those carbs now.

 

[JeeperChris]

Is this the one you have?

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/1456198862.png


Top left points to the bowl vent tube. Is that the one you are calling a fuel return line off the bowl?

 

[Basod]

Similar but same concept- that’s why I don’t want to run the return to that line. Currently Just plastic inline filter that I plan to relocate when carb swap is done.

This was an original 4cyl with AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l swapped in at some point. Need to check if that line goes to vapor canister near tank or is true return line.

Got most of the ignition swap done and couldn’t find my copper antisieze for new plugs. It had platinum plugs that looked decent light brown- gaps looked large but will confirm.




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[JeeperChris]

It's not a return line, it's just for vapors and goes to the charcoal canister.

If you are running better with that plugged as a return line then it sounds like your needle and seat on the float are not working and your carb is flooding which was overflowing into the engine giving you the sputtering problems.

With that return line hose hooked to it the overflow is now going back towards the tank instead of overflowing into the engine. Replace the needle and seat and install the three prong fuel filter and you should not have any more problems like that. That second outlet on the fuel filter is for the overflow line and keeps the fuel pressure down so the needle and seat can do their job and the bowl won't over flow.

 

[JeeperChris]

You might even get away with just installing that new fuel filter and not replacing the needle and seat.

And remember on that filter, the second outlet that goes to the return line needs to be rotated at the 12 o'clock position, so the filter has to lay flat, not pointed up or down.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I was thinking of the OEM filter with the return line.
Get rid of that plastic filter ASAP-It's a REAL fire hazard.
Don't put the filter over the exhaust-Source of heat that will lead to vapor-lock.
LG

 

[Basod]

Ignition upgrade appears to have fixed the random misfire.
Ran it with the new ICM for ~20 miles so far and no issues.
Haven't pulled the ballast wire wanted to make sure everything worked first, it appears to be red w/green tracer

Did find the vacuum advance canister diaphragm is leaking, going to attempt a repair on it as new ones are $40+ I'll post some a new thread on that one.

Going to tackle the filter and return line this weekend if time permits.

 

[JeeperChris]

That's great news, glad to hear it's going well.