TeamRush Ignition Upgrade

[JR74CJ5]

With the key in the run position, I'm getting 4.8 volts at the + terminal of the coil. Battery is showing 12.2 volts on my multimeter. So I guess I am not getting enough volts to the coil. Ideas?
Thanks Scott

I would start testing the continuity of the wires from there back. something is loose, worn, or a connection fried somewhere.

Do you have a wiring diagram for this beast?

Again, I would suspect if full power is not getting to the coil (as you state) that theres a small wiring problem somewhere to track down... Couple Cold 's and an afternoon and you should have it straightened out I would think (I've been there... )



~ JR

 

[ScottB]

I thought I had a Chiltons manual, but it actually is a Haynes. I also splurged and got a service manual. I'm digging thru it now. Hopefully it's about to pay for itself.

 

[ScottB]

Success. Turned out to be the Napa coil I put in about 1000 miles ago.
Scott

 

[ScottB]

Back again. The new coil worked fine for about 100 miles, then same thing happened. Engine cut out. Got fuel, no spark. I put on a new rotor and distributor cap 100 miles ago, so I don' think its them. I checked continuity on all the wires and they appear to be good. I put on a new ignition module 100 miles ago. Decided I would do the stealth HEI mod instead of another new Duraspark mod. Done that, still no spark. I checked primary and secondary resistance on the e-coil and they appeared to be ok. Cleaned my coil connector and reseated it. Still no go. Checked my plug wires.
The team Rush mod, nutter bypass all worked good for about thousand miles, now the jeep has cut out twice in short order. It's been extremely hot here (100+) both times it cut out, but it did not appear to be running hot and temp gauge showed normal.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Scott

 

[ScottB]

A little more info. When I have the coil connector disconnected from the coil, voltage at the + terminal is the same as battery voltage. If I connect the coil connector, then voltage at the + terminal is 4.8v. Don't know what that means, but seems weird.

 

[njdave]

bad resistor?

 

[ScottB]

Thanks for the reply. Where is this resistor at?
Scott

 

[jeepboy45]

A little more info. When I have the coil connector disconnected from the coil, voltage at the + terminal is the same as battery voltage. If I connect the coil connector, then voltage at the + terminal is 4.8v. Don't know what that means, but seems weird.

You need to search for "jeephammer".
He is the god of ignitions, and IS teamrush
He has seen it ALL, and without a doubt can help you...

good luck
brian

 

[JR74CJ5]

You need to search for "jeephammer".
He is the god of ignitions, and IS teamrush
He has seen it ALL, and without a doubt can help you...

good luck
brian

Here his Username is: TeamRush though he's not on (at least active) very often...

On Jeepforum He's known by: Jeephammer He's more active there...

I agree he can help you out with the particulars, If you have time to wait for a response.

If it was me, I'd start testing again. You should be able to track down the short / reason for loss of voltage. There's a loose ground, bad connector or wire etc, somewhere thats hindering you i think...

~ JR

 

[ScottB]

Thanks. I've read a lot of his posts. Mr brother-in-law is gonna help this evening. He's pretty good with electrical stuff, so hopefully we'll git er done.

 

[jeepboy45]

Here his Username is: TeamRush though he's not on (at least active) very often...

On Jeepforum He's known by: Jeephammer He's more active there...

I agree he can help you out with the particulars, If you have time to wait for a response.

If it was me, I'd start testing again. You should be able to track down the short / reason for loss of voltage. There's a loose ground, bad connector or wire etc, somewhere thats hindering you i think...

~ JR

I found him at jeepforum.com
and sent him a private message. He responded fast and was very helpful with my ignition issues...

 

[ScottB]

Thanks for all the replies. It's running now and I must now admit that I am an idiot at times. My coil plug wire was loose at the distributor cap--doh! Brother-in-law figured it out very quickly. Oh well--wasn't the first and I'm sure won't be the last.

 

[bluewave1]

You say the Ford parts are a direct drop in? So you don't have to switch out the gear at the end of the distributor. This sounds nice and easy, My AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l gets poor mileage this looks like a good starting point. Thanks!

 

[BusaDave9]

You say the Ford parts are a direct drop in? So you don't have to switch out the gear at the end of the distributor. This sounds nice and easy, My AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l gets poor mileage this looks like a good starting point. Thanks!

Yes, as long as long as your CJ was made after 1977 you have a Motorcraft Distributor. It's the same distributor found on fords.

 

[Zeppe807]

Ok, I think I have read all the post, but did not see anything about the capability to work with an existing Howell Fuel Injection system for the i6.

I remember something about the tach feed and the howell. Is there anything needed besides the MSD box & coil, and adapter plug? I already did the cap, rotor, and wires and it made an improvement.

Thanks,
Joe Zeppe

 

[BusaDave9]

Ok, I think I have read all the post, but did not see anything about the capability to work with an existing Howell Fuel Injection system for the i6.

I remember something about the tach feed and the howell. Is there anything needed besides the MSD box & coil, and adapter plug? I already did the cap, rotor, and wires and it made an improvement.

Thanks,
Joe Zeppe

Next you can upgrade the coil and get an MSD ignition module.
If you are also getting Howell fuel injection and need a tach signal, use the grey wire out of the ignition module.

MSD and other multiple spark ignition modules have a separate wire to be used for the tach signal. The minus signal on the coil can no longer be used for a Tach or FI

Other than that most after market fuel injection kits will work with just about any ignition system.

 

[Zeppe807]

Next you can upgrade the coil and get an MSD ignition module.
If you are also getting Howell fuel injection and need a tach signal, use the grey wire out of the ignition module.

MSD and other multiple spark ignition modules have a separate wire to be used for the tach signal. The minus signal on the coil can no longer be used for a Tach or FI

Other than that most after market fuel injection kits will work with just about any ignition system.

I have the Howell kit, and I am really happy with it (I will have to update my sig), but would like to upgrade the ignition next.

Thanks,
Joe Zeppe

 

[gp4play]

BusaDave9, Just wanted to say thanks for this thread, I plan to upgrade my engine in the CJ7 soon and this is now on the must do list.
Dennis

 

[restoremycj5]

will these parts work on the 360v8?

 

[alpha6]

Getting ready to buy everything I need for the upgrade, and after reading ScottB's problem and other Team Rush upgrade articles, I am thinking about adding a ballast resistor. Good idea or waste?

Info here.

Avoid Burning Up Your Coil With A Ballast Resistor

[/URL]You May need to add a [URL="http://www.amazon.com/mn/search/?_encoding=UTF8&scn=15684181&keywords=ballast%20resistor&tag=tntbefree-20&linkCode=ur2&qid=1332072987&h=7c94948fd23cb672c3ac07859e6077c57204db54&camp=1789&creative=390957&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3Aballast%20resistor"]Ballast Resistor to your Jeep.

After I did the TFI upgrade on my little Jeep YJ, it ran like a top. It fired up in a heart beat and had a very noticeable improvement in power. But once a month, just like clock work, she would burn up that new E-Coil. It got so bad that I had to keep a spare ignition coil in the glove box in case it would burn up while I was away from civilization.

After I burnt up three cheap Ford E-Coils, I upgraded to the MSD and kept a Ford coil for a spare. The MSD Coil seemed to be holding but I knowticed that the rubber stuff at the top of the coil was melting. Not a good sign.

After a bit of research, I found out that the coil is only to receive about 8 volts while the Jeep is running. When I checked the power going to my ignition coil, I found that it was getting a constant 15 volts. That would be a good indication as to why I was burning up coils so fast.

Why it was getting 15 volts instead of 8, I do no know. It may be due to the Nutter Bypass that I did, but it really didn't matter. It just needed to be fixed.

To fix it, a ballast resistor was recommended. Thus, if you are dealing with the same issue of burning up coils, I recommend that you place a ballast resistor inline to the positive feed of the coil to prevent premature coil burn out.

After I put mine in, and fired up the Jeep, the voltage to the MSD coil read 8.5 volts. Not as low as I wanted, but much better than what it was.

Warning!!! The ballast resistor gets pretty HOT... And whatever chemical they put on it at the factory will burn off. You will see and smell Smoke. Do not freak out. After a few runs, the smell and smoke will go away.

If you want to go ahead and get one, here is a great place to get a Ballast Resistor