TeamRush Ignition Upgrade

[BusaDave9]

will these parts work on the 360v8?

Yes. All AMC V8s can use the same ignition parts

 

[BusaDave9]

after reading ScottB's problem and other Team Rush upgrade articles, I am thinking about adding a ballast resistor. Good idea or waste?

Some coils need a ballast resistor.
It' the coil not the rest of the ignition that dictates if you need a ballast resistor.
The MSD blaster coils mentioned in this thread don't need a ballast resistor. If you get a different coil read the instructions and recommendations.
Are you getting a MSD ignition module?

 

[Torxhead]

Getting ready to buy everything I need for the upgrade, and after reading ScottB's problem and other Team Rush upgrade articles, I am thinking about adding a ballast resistor. Good idea or waste?

Info here.

Avoid Burning Up Your Coil With A Ballast Resistor

You May need to add a Ballast Resistor to your Jeep.

After I did the TFI upgrade on my little Jeep YJ, it ran like a top. It fired up in a heart beat and had a very noticeable improvement in power. But once a month, just like clock work, she would burn up that new E-Coil. It got so bad that I had to keep a spare ignition coil in the glove box in case it would burn up while I was away from civilization.

After I burnt up three cheap Ford E-Coils, I upgraded to the MSD and kept a Ford coil for a spare. The MSD Coil seemed to be holding but I knowticed that the rubber stuff at the top of the coil was melting. Not a good sign.

After a bit of research, I found out that the coil is only to receive about 8 volts while the Jeep is running. When I checked the power going to my ignition coil, I found that it was getting a constant 15 volts. That would be a good indication as to why I was burning up coils so fast.

Why it was getting 15 volts instead of 8, I do no know. It may be due to the Nutter Bypass that I did, but it really didn't matter. It just needed to be fixed.

To fix it, a ballast resistor was recommended. Thus, if you are dealing with the same issue of burning up coils, I recommend that you place a ballast resistor inline to the positive feed of the coil to prevent premature coil burn out.

After I put mine in, and fired up the Jeep, the voltage to the MSD coil read 8.5 volts. Not as low as I wanted, but much better than what it was.

Warning!!! The ballast resistor gets pretty HOT... And whatever chemical they put on it at the factory will burn off. You will see and smell Smoke. Do not freak out. After a few runs, the smell and smoke will go away.

If you want to go ahead and get one, here is a great place to get a Ballast Resistor

It almost sounds like you have removed the resistance wire, which cuts down the voltage to the coil. Then replaced it with a conventional wire.

 

[alpha6]

Some coils need a ballast resistor.
It' the coil not the rest of the ignition that dictates if you need a ballast resistor.
The MSD blaster coils mentioned in this thread don't need a ballast resistor. If you get a different coil read the instructions and recommendations.
Are you getting a MSD ignition module?

Yeah, I am planning on getting the 6201 like you recommended. I don't think I need the waterproof version since I don't plan to submarine. Torxhead...I didn't do the above, I copied it from another Team Rush article.

 

[MarkSud]

good write up. i did this to my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and well worth it. i went with a msd blaster 3 coil and a streetfire (msd econo brand) box. the strretfire has two dials on this side to adjust the rev limiter.

Where did you find the MSD distributor cap for the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l (or the Ford 300 for that matter). I can't seem to find it.

Also, first post. Seems like a great forum so far!

 

[alpha6]

Hey Dave, why does the red wire from the A6 have to hook to the old coil cap if you won't be using that anymore. I think I am finally getting it. So the A6 pretty much cuts out the old ignition module on the drivers side under the overflow tank? But, you recommend keeping things and the old coil on hand in case the A6 goes out on the trail than it's a simple reconnect the old coil adaptor and it should run as normal.

 

[BusaDave9]

Where did you find the MSD distributor cap for the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l (or the Ford 300 for that matter). I can't seem to find it.

Also, first post. Seems like a great forum so far!

I also did a search for that cap without luck. Maybe DaleFan88 will chime in. Otherwise call up Summit Racing (800-230-3030) or Jegs (800-345-4545) and ask for an MSD Adapt-A-cap for a 1981 Ford F150 with a 300 CI strait Six. It's called a Adapt-A-Cap because it has the adapter raiser that the cap snaps onto.
Or get this:

For AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l I-6, '78 to '90

CAP BASE OR CAP ADAPTOR,
The cap adaptor is the bottom half of a two piece distributor cap arrangement that Ford has been using for over 20 years with great success.
The cap adaptor raises the distributor cap up away from the distributor housing, making it harder for the spark energy created by the ignition coil to go to ground and cause an ignition misfire.
Cap Adaptor.
82 Ford F-AMC 150 Pickup, with 300 CID I-6, about $5.
Wells (Auto Zone and others) P/N F-960
GP Sorensen (Advanced Auto and others) P/N FR-109
Delco P/N F-334

Make sure it's the screw down type, and not the quick clip type.
(Adaptors are attached with screws or quick clips, All the distributor caps are quick clip)
--------------------------------

CAP & ROTOR,
Wider cap spreads out the plug wire terminals. This extra spacing helps prevent cross fires of ignition energy. Brass terminals also conduct electricity much better than cheap aluminum terminal caps. These updated caps have spark plug type terminals and use late model high energy plug wires.
The taller rotor keeps the spark energy from jumping to ground through the distributor shaft, or to the distributor housing.
Cap & Rotor,
Premium, brass terminals, For 84 Ford F-AMC 150 Pickup, with 300 CID I-6, about $15.
(Auto Zone) Conrad P/N F-2104-G
(Advanced Auto) Standard Blue Streak P/N KCR-202X

The above info is from the Junk Yard Genius

 

[BusaDave9]

Hey Dave, why does the red wire from the A6 have to hook to the old coil cap if you won't be using that anymore.

That red wire that used to go to the old coil has 12 volts whenever the ignition key switch is on. This switched 12 volts needs to be fed into the MDS ignition module. If you try to route the small red wire from the MSD module to the battery then your battery will go dead when you leave your jeep sit too long.

So the A6 pretty much cuts out the old ignition module on the drivers side under the overflow tank? But, you recommend keeping things and the old coil on hand in case the A6 goes out on the trail than it's a simple reconnect the old coil adaptor and it should run as normal.

I kept the OEM ignition module because I go out on remote mountain trails and if the MSD module craps out I plan on rewiring up my OEM ignition module. If you look over this diagram and do the mod you'll see to switch it back is a PITA. You probably won't want to keep the OEM module and coil. I have been rethinking this and think I will remove my OEM module. The coil is long gone. They are reliable and I am not worried about my MSD coil crapping out.

 

[restoremycj5]

I have bought the equipment team rush recommends but I am not sure about the wiring of the starter solenoid. I am using the painless harness and I have to run a jumper wire from the s terminal on the solenoid to the white wire on the old duraspark ignition module How does the starter solenoid wire into this set up using team rush upgrade? thanks

 

[BusaDave9]

I have bought the equipment team rush recommends but I am not sure about the wiring of the starter solenoid. I am using the painless harness and I have to run a jumper wire from the s terminal on the solenoid to the white wire on the old duraspark ignition module How does the starter solenoid wire into this set up using team rush upgrade? thanks

This doesn't affect the wiring of the starter solenoid but that is a good place to get 12 volts.


The "Heavy Red" wire should go to the battery but it is easier to go to the starter solenoid. Go to the same terminal that the big cable goes to the battery. That is electrically the same as connecting to the battery.

 

[restoremycj5]

thank you for the info..

 

[alpha6]

Dave, did you replace both timing advance springs or just one and leave one of the originals? The order came with two, but I know they can be different sizes depending on how you want the advance to take place.

 

[BusaDave9]

Dave, did you replace both timing advance springs or just one and leave one of the originals?

I replaced both of mine.

 

[alpha6]

I just finished up but would like someone (BusaDave9 if available) to check my work before I put power to it. Heavy Red and Black to battery (pic 1) Orange and Black to Coil (pic 2) Small Red to old red on old Coil adaptor (pic 3) - I plan to get a better connection on this...it's a little weak right now. Last purple and orange to distributor module (pic 4) White and gray not used at this time and I just tucked it away. (pic 5)

 

[BusaDave9]

Looks good. Sounds like you are ready to power it up.

You can cut the old coil cap completely off if you want. Then connect the red wire from the MSD ignition module to the red wire that used to go to the coil connector. But the way you have it should work. Cutting those wires means you will need to either get crimp-on connectors or solder the wires.

 

[alpha6]

Yeah, I plan to on making it a direct connection or at least get a better hook up. I thought I would leave it on in case the Jeep Gods are not pleased with me and the A6 goes belly up I can reconnect the old set up. Thanks again Dave for all your info and guidance.

 

[alpha6]

Well, it cranked right up and sounds nice and smooth. I haven't started to readjust the timing yet as when I went to switch it off it continued to run. I had to disconnect the neg lead to the A6 to kill it. Did I miss something? I will re-read this thread.

 

[BusaDave9]

when I went to switch it off it continued to run. I had to disconnect the neg lead to the A6 to kill it.

That's what would happen if you always have 12 volts on the red wire that goes to the old coil connector.

the red wire in the top of this drawing should have 12 volts ONLY when the key is turned on.
I would hook up the ground and everything else. check the red wire that goes from the old coil connector into the MSD module. There should not be 12 volts there until you turn on the key. If there is 12 volts that's your problem. Dont start your engine or it will stay running again.
If there is 12 volts there don't leave it like that overnight. It will drain your battery. Disconnect the battery or the ground MSD wire.

EDIT: It's good that you didn't make a permanent connection where the old coil connection goes into the MSD harness. Disconnect the coil connector and check for voltage on the red wire in the CJ harness (not the MSD harness). That red wire should not have 12 volts on it until the key is turned to the ON position.

 

[BusaDave9]

Is there an extra wire here. The one red and white wire that used to go to the coil should go to the small red wire to the MSD module.

 

[alpha6]

Here is another pic of that whole set up. The old coil connector had a red wire and green wire for the pos and neg. It also had a capped off red/white wire you can see. I connected the small red wire to the old cap using a split wire that had the right connector, you can see the one split I have taped off and the other connects to the old positive side of the old coil adaptor. I was reading about attaching a diode to fix the problem but there are not any good pics as to where or what wire from the alternator this is done. Pic 2 is the back of the alternator and pic 3 is where everything ties in together on the fender. Does the diode install on the red/white wire in pic #3 or ???.