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after being careful to measure everything accurately, i went to hook up the front drive shaft to the diff and it was about 2-3 inches short. Now what? cheaper/easier to move the front end rearward or get a drive shaft made....
after being careful to measure everything accurately, i went to hook up the front drive shaft to the diff and it was about 2-3 inches short. Now what? cheaper/easier to move the front end rearward or get a drive shaft made....
I saw you said you measured something, did you install a new axle or what happened?
This may be way below your skill level but its not compressed is it?
I had a driveline made by a guy that sells on Ebay called tattons driveline.
I was very happy with his product.
You can see what people have said (other sites/google) about what you are talking about but I don't know anybody who has done that. I see your point about the front being at low speed.
If I were to do that, I'd mark the shaft so that when you cut it and insert a piece of pipe, you can line those marks up.
Drivert, just saw another thread by you. Looks like you are doing a drivetrain swap or something.
Did you check the length for the rear driveline yet? On my 73', there were two sets of holes in the frame for mounting the Transmission crossmember. Maybe you used the set further back. Pretty sure mine were in the front holes when I had it stock.
Let us know what all you are putting in.
Sounds like you got the wobbly Transmission fixed but mine always are real loose until bolted to the engine. Typically they lean way back. That being said, I wouldn't modify the driveline until the engine is bolted in.
Drivert, just saw another thread by you. Looks like you are doing a drivetrain swap or something.
Did you check the length for the rear driveline yet? On my 73', there were two sets of holes in the frame for mounting the Transmission crossmember. Maybe you used the set further back. Pretty sure mine were in the front holes when I had it stock.
Let us know what all you are putting in.
Sounds like you got the wobbly Transmission fixed but mine always are real loose until bolted to the engine. Typically they lean way back. That being said, I wouldn't modify the driveline until the engine is bolted in.
i built my own frame. i measured where the Transmission crossmember was on the old frame and thought i got it right on the new. i need to remeasure everything, i might have got something in the wrong spot. rear driveline looks good
just did some measuring, seems i somehow got the tranny crossmember mounted an inche too far back. that with a few other not so precise measurements and the frame being higher off the ground seemed to have lost me the length
Now I see why you suggested moving the front axle; at first I was thinking WTF?
Pretty sure that youre rear driveline should be most of the way extended sitting on level ground. This will leave it with all the travel to shorten itself as the rear suspension collapses. Thats how my custom one came anyways. Its got like 2" of spline showing. Front should be most of the way extended also.
Maybe someone with a stocker can measure how much spline they have showing on their rear for you.
Now I see why you suggested moving the front axle; at first I was thinking WTF?
Pretty sure that youre rear driveline should be most of the way extended sitting on level ground. This will leave it with all the travel to shorten itself as the rear suspension collapses. Thats how my custom one came anyways. Its got like 2" of spline showing. Front should be most of the way extended also.
Maybe someone with a stocker can measure how much spline they have showing on their rear for you.
Have you done a shackle reversal or running them in the stock location? In the stock location the drive shaft should extend as the suspension is collapsed the front axle moves up and away. the same for the rear. More then likely if you built any kind of lift, used lift springs or a shackle reversal the height difference is what is causing your shaft to be the wrong length. plus you located the motor 1" to far back
1979 Jeep CJ5 with 304 V8, T18 Transmission, Dana 20 Transfer case with TeraLow 3:1 gears, 4.88 axle gears, Detroit Locker up front and Ox Locker in back with 1 piece axle shafts, 36" SuperSwamper SX Tires, Shackle reversal, MileMarker Hydraulic winch, MSD 6A ignition.
With the wheels off the ground and no drive shaft installed measure the distance from yoke to yoke
Add a inch or so because the suspension will pull further if you go airborne off road. This is the extended length of the drive shaft you need.
With the jeep on the ground measure again. It hard to measure the compressed length but you can guesstamate. Then call up Tom Woods 1-877-497-4238 I go there for my drive shafts and have had great luck.
Check out their web site for more info: Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
With the wheels off the ground and no drive shaft installed measure the distance from yoke to yoke
Add a inch or so because the suspension will pull further if you go airborne off road. This is the extended length of the drive shaft you need.
With the jeep on the ground measure again. It hard to measure the compressed length but you can guesstamate. Then call up Tom Woods 1-877-497-4238 I go there for my drive shafts and have had great luck.
Check out their web site for more info: Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
Now what? cheaper/easier to move the front end rearward or get a drive shaft made....
