Build Thread The '80 FrankenJeep frame off reassembly

Build Thread The '80 FrankenJeep frame off reassembly
Dropped the oil pan for an inspection - everything looked ok - except for the mass on the bottom of the oil pickup. Upon further inspection, it was 1, maybe 2 fast food napkins torn and wadded up on the screen. That explains the why - starved the rear of the engine of oil and cooked the bearings. Weird thing is oil pressure never went super wonky. It had lowered some over time, but it has always been a bit low - didn’t seem too outta whack. Anyway - couldn’t figure out how they got there….. napkins weren’t shredded - large to small pieces, but they had not gone thru the engine. Only explanation I have is I left em in there during the initial clean out when I had it opened up, maybe stuck up under the baffle in the oil pan. Decided I didn’t wanna go thru the whole machine shop ordeal - wasn’t wanting to dump a grand into getting it machined, so I picked up a 93 4.0 with a couple hundred thousand on the odometer for 400 bucks. Would have rather had a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l over the AMC 304 originally, but it was already there so I left it. Broke it all the way down, didn’t see any sludge, but it was dirty inside, so I cleaned that out of the block and oil pan, head looked good, cam and lifters were good, got everything cleaned up and ready to go back in. Reassembled the big pieces without the guts, sealed up all the openings, and went over it with a good blasting. Had a local powder coating shop blast the valve cover for me. Would have taken me hours. They got so clean I could eat out of it. Hit it with a good dose of air, degreased it, and converted it back to a proper 1980 color. Disassembled, hit the cylinders with a little honing to restore a good crosshatch pattern, threw in new rings, rod and main bearings, new valve seals, gaskets, new water pump, thermostat, harmonic balancer, and buttoned it back up.
Stopped by the local pick n pull, and they actually had a 2000 Wrangler in the yard. Couldn’t believe it. I grabbed the intake, alternator, power steering pump, the brackets, couple pulleys, and the cover plate for the front of the bellhousing for just over a hundred bucks.

Now, so far so good. Here’s where the name calling begins LOL. Since the CJ currently runs an MSD ignition without a computer, I wanted to stay with no computer. I like simple. Inefficient, yes, but it’s simple. Wanted to stay carbureted, so I machined the intake to accept my carburetor, will plug the injector holes, run a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l distributor, add an external voltage regulator, and I should be back in business. Gonna have the power steering high pressure lines spliced together hopefully tomorrow, and that should get me back on the road. Carb is a little overkill, but I can address that later if need be.

Not sure how to add pics in the post as I go, so I’ll add a few at the end.
 

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Glad you are back in the game. What’s the difference between the MSD 6ALN which you have, and the 6AL ? which is what I have. Is the N for none computer ?
 
Glad you are back in the game. What’s the difference between the MSD 6ALN which you have, and the 6AL ? which is what I have. Is the N for none computer ?
The N stands for the NASCAR version. Basicly adds a watertight connector. Other than that they both have the same Rev control and are built the same.
 
Thanks CJ
 
He beat me to it….. I got it off eBay for pretty cheap. Supposedly this one isn’t street legal - haven’t confirmed nor denied that, but if true, would make no sense.

Went out this afternoon and stuck the Transmission and Transfer Case on the back of the engine to locate and drill the new mounting holes I figured I’d need. When I put this thing together a few years ago, I used a narrow track skid plate on a wide track frame, and with the engine/Transmission combo, I had to notch the skid plate to allow the Transmission mount to fit. Due to none of the holes lining up, I was “smart” and welded em all up and started fresh. Today, when I jacked the whole shebang up to the frame, the skid plate holes lined right up to the frame……I figured going from a AMC 304 to a 4.0 the length would be off and require the skid plate to move aft a bit. Nope. I’m buying a lottery ticket tomorrow.
 
Even for me changing from 4 cylinder to 6 cylinder and T-4 to T-176 the holes lineup was the same. Drive shafts were the same also. Didn’t do me any good luck with the lottery.
 
Even for me changing from 4 cylinder to 6 cylinder and T-4 to T-176 the holes lineup was the same. Drive shafts were the same also. Didn’t do me any good luck with the lottery.
Dangit. Thought it might’ve helped….
 
Crickets. :popcorn:
 
Finally got the ol girl back on the road……. I’ll sit down with a barley pop or two and update to where I am now……. Other than taking me forever, there weren’t any huge hurdles to cross, and just a few minor ones……
 
Back in the saddle again ! :chug:
 
:poke:
 
Ok…… Let’s see….. The heart transplant was successful, physically the fit was perfect. I was excited. Stuck the intake and exhaust manifold in place, set the carb on the adapter, and 💩💩💩. The carb hit the brake booster. Insert foul language here. Honestly, the only reason I wanted to use the Edelbrock was the manual choke. Switch to plan B. Ordered a Carter BBD clone off Amazon, made an adapter for the adapter LOL, and the BBD dropped right into place. Removed the electric choke, scavenged the choke actuating arm from the Edelbrock, stuck it on the side opposite the throttle linkage side, and voila - manual choke. Bolted the throttle cable bracket from the AMC 304 to the intake, rerouted the throttle cable, and called it good.

Had picked up an electric fuel pump, so I fabbed up a bracket, mounted it to the edge of the skid plate, stuck the fuel pump to it, spliced in the fuel lines - then there was gas!

Capped all the unused vac ports, hit the gas a couple times, verified my wife was filming to aid in tracking down parts if it blew up, and hit the starter. And it cranked slowwwwwww. On the second cranking, it almost fired. It did however, back fire thru the carb. My wife looked to her right and asked “what was that??”. It was the large vac port cap LOL. Recapped every unused vac ports, and it occurred to me the timing was 180 out. I suspected as much.

Ok - hittin the rack. More tomorrow. And I’ll take a few pics for clarity 👍
 
Let’s see - where was I? Oh, yeah - timing. Rather than follow all the internet folks’ advice to pull the distributor and reinstall 180 out, I just detached and reattached the spark plug wires 180 out. Went to crank it, no joy. Dead. Verified wiring - nuthin. Took the starter off and had it tested. Tan fine (but in a no load situation). Reinstalled, and still no joy. Replaced with a new starter. Fired right up. Even with a blind guess at setting the initial timing, it idled pretty darned smooth. Everything sounded good, no leaks, drips, or runs, so around the block I went. Ran good, needed a little timing advance…. Ran a little better. Second trip out, noticed the voltage was riding dead on 12….. Not 14.5……12. Checked the connections on the external voltage regulator. Seemed good. Called the Alternator Man - free phone support with purchase 👍👍. He walked me thru 3 on vehicle tests to confirm the alt was ok - it failed all 3. Took it to be tested, and when they powered the test up, it popped the breaker. BAD alternator!! New alternator and all is well. It’s back on the road and the loaner vehicle returned. Only two more issues to deal with - finish dialing in the carb (still a little hesitant when rolling on the gas in 4th gear. Accelerator pump is fine…just feels like it doesn’t wanna go), and reinstall the front drive shaft.
 
Now were talking, time to enjoy that baby


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Dang Shum, when you reappear, you reappear with a dousy!

I’m jealous of your pick and pull success. In communist MA up here, everyone is afraid of litigation, I think there is only one yard in the whole state that’ll let you pick and pull.

Only beautiful power plant build by you!


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