Build Thread The '80 FrankenJeep frame off reassembly
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- Location
- Rockwall,TX
- Vehicle(s)
- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
-
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Build Thread The '80 FrankenJeep frame off reassembly
- Thread starter shum8
- Start date Start date:
- Last post Last post:
- Posts
- 7,316
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- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
I tried everything close to “eat me” for my nosey neighbor - but they wouldn’t let any of em fly........ LOL
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gr8dain
Full Time Jeeper
So am I missing any meaning or are those the randoms?
We have them on the impala as well.
- Posts
- 7,316
- Media
- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
- Posts
- 11,552
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- 57
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- 11
- Location
- Frederick colorado
- Vehicle(s)
- 84 cj7, 91 cherokee, 78 chevy 3500 pu, 78 CJ7
One step closer.....
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Now go out and enjoy it after all that hard work this weekend.
- Posts
- 7,316
- Media
- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
Still gotta get it inspected - hence the shifter boots an stuff. My updated inspection day is next Friday...... gives me a week to get the smalls taken care of [emoji106]
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- Posts
- 7,316
- Media
- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
Went looking for that cheap sewing machine - someone else also thought 30 bucks a good deal and got it. Soooo, went over to my wife’s Aunts house and borrowed her grandmother’s machine - which is in immaculate condition I might add...... the heck with hand sewing. Here we go -
OMG - That was fast...... the hours I spent on the last one. Oh man.
Now to start on the rings......
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OMG - That was fast...... the hours I spent on the last one. Oh man.
Now to start on the rings......
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Last edited:
- Posts
- 2,328
- Media
- 45
- Thanks
- 6
- Location
- Eagle, WI
- Vehicle(s)
- 1979 CJ7 V8 304 T18 w/gran low D20 w/TeraLowD30 D44,
1959 CJ5 Rebuild 74 Buick 231V6 oddfire T14 D20 D30 D44 frame boxed roller engine ready,
1967 CJ5 V6 225 T86aa D18 D27 D44 runs needs work,
1954 CJ3B F4-134 T90A D18 D25 D44 Half Cab needs tub,
That's looking very nice. And a nice old Singer you borrowed. For straight stitching I would suggest a Singer class 15 or 66 which can be found fairly cheap. And you are well into this, but the heaviest polyester thread your machine will handle. And use longer stitches. You are doing great! When I made mine I sewed the top of each boot section back first about 3/4 inch, then sewed the sides together inside out like you have done. A little math will get you the correct top boot length to go around the circumference of your shift rod. Side notes for the next one. [emoji3]
- Posts
- 7,316
- Media
- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
Already did the math for the tops and bottoms. And these are just short term fixes for my state inspection
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- Posts
- 2,328
- Media
- 45
- Thanks
- 6
- Location
- Eagle, WI
- Vehicle(s)
- 1979 CJ7 V8 304 T18 w/gran low D20 w/TeraLowD30 D44,
1959 CJ5 Rebuild 74 Buick 231V6 oddfire T14 D20 D30 D44 frame boxed roller engine ready,
1967 CJ5 V6 225 T86aa D18 D27 D44 runs needs work,
1954 CJ3B F4-134 T90A D18 D25 D44 Half Cab needs tub,
I hope I didn't offend you. I read where you figured out the circumference needed for your shift boots and your shift rod. I was just listing what I had done when I made mine. I meant no harm. You are doing a much better job of posting how to make your own shift boots than I did and certainly a guide to follow for those wanting to know.
- Posts
- 7,316
- Media
- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
Nope - No offense taken. Ya gotta do better than that if you wanna offend me [emoji6]
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- Posts
- 7,316
- Media
- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
Since Im about ready for my inspection I decided to work on seat risers. I eventually wanna to install a set of the Corbeau Moab seats, but until then my risers need help - the passenger seat sits level, but the driver side sits low on the rear left corner. Bad. When I bought the Jeep it had YJ risers on the driver’s side and there was a stack of fender washers under the riser at the corner to help the sag..... Digging around in the parts tub that came with it I found CJ risers for the driver’s side - so I swapped them in as well. Some of the lean was the tub, so I pulled the floor up a bit, but they still sag.
When I get to ordering the Corbeaus I’ll modify the CJ risers but for now, I’ll run the YJ set. The mounting holes in the tub weren’t wide enough, or the slider mounting holes in the seat bottom were too wide to lay everything work right, so I went at the risers with a grinder and welder yesterday. Not only did the seat sag back and left, the left riser was also too low as well.
Here’s a shot showing the two risers out of parallel
For a reference I set a level on the dash and it was all but dead nuts level. Here’s the level across the fronts of the risers
Let the surgery begin
Clamped like that, the rear of the risers were level. Tacked in place, cut the front apart, raised it up, and tacked in place. Welded in steel pieces, ground pretty flat, painted and bolted em down. Now they are at the same angle and level across the tops...... the passenger side also needs attention, but it needs to be moved outboard about an inch. When I put the YJ half doors on, the driver door interfered with the seat and the passenger door cleared by an inch and a half. I fixed the interference fit, and am about done moving the passenger risers out an inch. Wouldn’t have been a big deal but I needed the room for the security box door - when opening it would hit the passenger seat. This should fix that. I’ll take a few more pics this afternoon
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When I get to ordering the Corbeaus I’ll modify the CJ risers but for now, I’ll run the YJ set. The mounting holes in the tub weren’t wide enough, or the slider mounting holes in the seat bottom were too wide to lay everything work right, so I went at the risers with a grinder and welder yesterday. Not only did the seat sag back and left, the left riser was also too low as well.
Here’s a shot showing the two risers out of parallel
For a reference I set a level on the dash and it was all but dead nuts level. Here’s the level across the fronts of the risers
Let the surgery begin
Clamped like that, the rear of the risers were level. Tacked in place, cut the front apart, raised it up, and tacked in place. Welded in steel pieces, ground pretty flat, painted and bolted em down. Now they are at the same angle and level across the tops...... the passenger side also needs attention, but it needs to be moved outboard about an inch. When I put the YJ half doors on, the driver door interfered with the seat and the passenger door cleared by an inch and a half. I fixed the interference fit, and am about done moving the passenger risers out an inch. Wouldn’t have been a big deal but I needed the room for the security box door - when opening it would hit the passenger seat. This should fix that. I’ll take a few more pics this afternoon
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- Posts
- 12,365
- Featured
- 3
- Media
- 71
- Resources
- 2
- Thanks
- 278
- Location
- Rockwall,TX
- Vehicle(s)
- 1983 cj7, 1971 Dart, 1942 Willys slat grill
Dang that’s pretty crazy
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Posts
- 7,316
- Media
- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
Got the passenger seat riser (the ratty rusty one) modified to reposition the seat outboard 1 inch. Threw a coat of paint on it, and will swap it in tomorrow. As I was racing the clock, the dark, and the mosquitoes, I failed to take photos. I'll post a couple tomorrow before I put in service. I also got the Transmission shifter boot ring done. Since this is a temporary fix, I cut it out of plexiglass, smoothed it up, and hit it with the same aerosol bed liner as the inner fenders. I still have the Transfer Case shifter boot to go, so I'll take a few pics of that one. This is the finished one....
These will do for now......
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These will do for now......
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Last edited:
gr8dain
Full Time Jeeper
Your temporary boots look great. I know me. They would be my permanent ones.
- Posts
- 7,316
- Media
- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
Thanks - But I figure we’ll know exactly how good or bad they look once I scrunch em down.....
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ZEN357
Jeeper
It's looking very good!!!
- Posts
- 11,552
- Media
- 57
- Thanks
- 11
- Location
- Frederick colorado
- Vehicle(s)
- 84 cj7, 91 cherokee, 78 chevy 3500 pu, 78 CJ7
^^x2
- Posts
- 7,316
- Media
- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 157
- Location
- Roanoke, Va
- Vehicle(s)
- '80 CJ-7, AMC 304, T177, Dana 300, Widetrack axles (D30 & AMC20) w/ 3.73 gearing, MSD ignition,
Ready to be mounted and scrunched.
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