It's not bad info, just badly relayed info. All who have posted in all the threads that we have had about this topic have been been correct in different aspects. They just didn't convey what they meant correctly.
I will add, there has been a lot of info missed in all the threads that run across this forum lately. As I stated, I will make a post (started it a little while ago) with my experiences. These experiences are not what I read or what I was told. These are what I personally have gone through.
I have used very high $ Mallory dual point, racing, billet, HEI and the cheap as hell Chinese HEI dizzys (not all my engines). The majority of the times there is no difference. I have use soft bronze, soft steel and hardened dizzy gears (that is a big story I will tell).
One thing that no one has talked about is upper bushing clearance, and even more important is upper shoulder to dizzy roll pin length. If the distance is not correct (within specs) and you reuse your old gear, you get two wear patterns on the gear (usually not a problem). If the shoulder to roll pin distance is not correct (long) it can cause oil pump shaft binding.
As I stated, don't assume that because it works or worked for you, others will never have a problem.
Again, I will write up my real world experiences and post them. Heck, I'll even get into how to make that hard dizzy gear work with your cam gear. Anyone up for a lesson on hardening and tempering? It's fairly easy to do...