What did you do to or with your CJ today?

What did you do to or with your CJ today?
Milled, drilled and taped my flat top knuckles. Should be getting the 44 in the jeep pretty soon now.
I already changed my jeep profile to give me some incentive to get er done.
 

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Old Dog said:
Milled, drilled and taped my flat top knuckles. Should be getting the 44 in the jeep pretty soon now.
I already changed my jeep profile to give me some incentive to get er done.
Click to expand...

:)Good Job Dog...............lookin good on those high mount spindles. Are you going to cut off the old steering arms on those spindles and put everything on top?
Are You using the same tie rod ends or changing those?

:D:D:D:D
 
tarry99 said:
:)Good Job Dog...............lookin good on those high mount spindles. Are you going to cut off the old steering arms on those spindles and put everything on top?
Are You using the same tie rod ends or changing those?

:D:D:D:D
Click to expand...
Tarry, not sure on the arms, my buddy at TKH fab is trying to talk me into keeping the tie rod hooked to the old arms and using the new high arm for the drag link. He thinks it's a stronger set-up that way (I'm staying SUA) and less stress on the high arms.

I'll be going with bigger rod ends.

Terrry (TKH) has been building jeeps for a living for a long time so he might know what he's talking about.

You have any thoughts?
 
Spring is coming, I just put the new soft top on, getting ready for spring.:driving:
 
Old Dog said:
Tarry, not sure on the arms, my buddy at TKH fab is trying to talk me into keeping the tie rod hooked to the old arms and using the new high arm for the drag link. He thinks it's a stronger set-up that way (I'm staying SUA) and less stress on the high arms.

I'll be going with bigger rod ends.

Terrry (TKH) has been building jeeps for a living for a long time so he might know what he's talking about.

You have any thoughts?

:)Dog.........I would be OK with it either way as long as your getting the clearance you want on the tie rod and the drag link without any Bumpsteer.
In some ways that may defeat the purpose of the high steer arm to get the tie rod up and out of the way of things but I would not second guess his wisdom from here.
Mine are a 4 bolt mount system on a purpose built spindle so maybe there is some difference between the two strength wise 3 versus the 4 so I can understand his thinking.
I think you'll be fine.
I used the Moog ES2010R & 2010L they have a 7/8" thread.
:D:D:D:D
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didn't exactly do this today, but did finish up my 2150 rebuild and gathered all the parts. Just have to make the adapter arm to attech the bell crank. Then wait on some warmer weather this week to install it.
 
I need to do the same thing.....I have NO experience at all. Any ideas where to start or how to dumb this process down.....way down. I know the plug in brackets for my turn signal is broken on the fuse box. Am I better off getting a new box and starting over? When the hazards are on, all the lights under the dash blink.
 
How do I know what bolt pattern steering wheel to buy? I currently have a three bolt wheel...1 1/2 inches from center of bolt to the next bolt.
 
stljeep said:
How do I know what bolt pattern steering wheel to buy? I currently have a three bolt wheel...1 1/2 inches from center of bolt to the next bolt.
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:)That pattern is pretty standard in the industry..............the adaptors may change depending on the wheel............narrow down the type of new steering wheel your looking for............Go to Grant steering wheels on line and look around.
Your lights that are flashing...........probably a bad Ground wire on that circuit or someone has crossed a wire................no easy fix........just have to look. 12 volts is simple..........one hot wire (+) and one negitive wire (-) in some cases like lights they just run a hot wire+ to the socket then ground the complete fixture. Get a test light.

:D:D:D:D
 
stljeep said:
How do I know what bolt pattern steering wheel to buy? I currently have a three bolt wheel...1 1/2 inches from center of bolt to the next bolt.
Click to expand...
You will get a kit to install your new steering wheel.
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This kit includes a splined steering wheel hub. You won't be bolting onto those same 3 bolt holes.
 
So the kit will connect to those three bolts and then the wheel bolts to the kit. So I don't need to buy an adapter.
Is a 16" wheel realistic or too big. I don't know what the oem wheel would have been on the CJ5 I had in high school.
 
stljeep said:
So the kit will connect to those three bolts and then the wheel bolts to the kit. So I don't need to buy an adapter.
Is a 16" wheel realistic or too big. I don't know what the oem wheel would have been on the CJ5 I had in high school.
Click to expand...
No you will throw out the part that has the 3 bolts.
When you buy your new steering wheel they will ask what vhicle you want to install it on.
You say an '86 Jeep CJ. and they will also sell you this kit:
g193196_1.jpg

Notice you get a splined part that fits on your steering wheel column and the steering wheel mounts to that. In other word you replace that part that has the 3 bolts.
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1976-1986 Jeep CJ7 Steering Wheel Installation Kit Grant
Don't buy this kit yet. It is only for a Grant Steering wheel but you should get something similar.
 
I got my MC 2150 on my jeep today. None to soon either, when I removed it there was a puddle of gas in the intake and as Icarried it inside it was dripping. Installed the adapter plate and rebuilt carb. Once the gas got up and it fired right off and idled. Had to fab an L shaped bracket to connect the bell crank.
 
stljeep said:
How do I know what bolt pattern steering wheel to buy? I currently have a three bolt wheel...1 1/2 inches from center of bolt to the next bolt.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you're measuring an adapter. If so you'll just need a wheel. If I'm not mistaken, a GM adapter is the same as a CJ adapter. (I'll find out for sure when it stops raining and snowing and blowing enough to go out and fuss with mine.)
 
Pulled the next-to-shortest leaf from each rear spring pack. Didn't change the elevation/angle of the body. Amazed at how much wear on the shackle bolts from running dry thru poly inserts. Me for greaseable shackle bolts forever after! After reattaching everything, I can at last get spring flex when I bounce on the rear bumper!
 
got the new MC 2100 tuned and new air cleaner on. Starts much better even cold and seat of the pants says better throttle response
 
Replaced the broken/sometimes-functional tail lights with round LED lights: AutoSmart KL-2510 4" Round with Red Lens. I know, it does away with the stock look, but they're a lot brighter than the stock ones.

Also, corrected several wiring issues from a PO in the process, now all the lights work! :D Back to being street-legal.
 
I dont run those on my jeep. But I do on my tow rig, I love them.
 
stljeep said:
I don't know what the oem wheel would have been on the CJ5 I had in high school.
Click to expand...
17". Just like my '51 GMC pickup. And my '39 Dodge pickup. And I think any non-power-steered old pickup or small truck.
 
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