What did you do to or with your CJ today?

[BigCountry008]

And the best part about the flag pole is that it was absolutely free


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Woolyworm]

Making more progress - kind of digging the lift I have in these photos . Also liking the looks of no bumper. Cheers fellow Jeepers!

Wooly

 

[gr8dain]

So far today, I installed the throttle cable, installed the seats, wire brushed then painted the MC and booster (hated looking at the rust), installed a smaller air cleaner that will actually fit the space, installed the new filler and vent hoses and mounted the fuel filler. No adapting needed. Stretched and used as much of the metal of the filler neck as possible though.

 

[gr8dain]

Started to put the front clip on for good. The pass side went well. The driver side not so much. I need to get some longer bolts and some nuts as the nutserts are just spinning for the top two bolts. I am getting frustrated and calling it "beer time". I have spent a lot of time on it today and need a rest. I also need to cut a new puck for under the radiator. I will probably need a new/longer bolt as well.

By the way, more fun news. After moving the body, it would appear that I have to realign my doors. Yippee.

 

[Woolyworm]

Coming along nice though


Wooly

 

[gr8dain]

Coming along nice though


Wooly

Thanks!

 

[DHugg]

Bored out the holes for tierod and drag link ends to install GOFERIT sleeved inserts. Perfect fit with a 0.75 inch drill bit.

 

[Woolyworm]

Cool- I've got a set of those waiting for install.


Wooly

 

[Hedgehog]

Wooly - weld the nutserts in solid, You'll probably have to run a tap through them or use the stock self tapping bolts. Mine were gone, so I drilled the holes bigger, then welded in nuts and ground them smooth again. Took a lot of work, but worked well in the end.

 

[HackFabrication]

Made a flag pole for my CJ5 for when the doors are off.. I used a pop up tent stakes, a washer and cotter pin.. Works great!

I'm stealing that idea!

 

[Neuner]

Had an interesting review of data collected by my system in resolution of a pinging problem I had. Was always on the edge of pinging with my old AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and now I wonder if this was a cause -

I use the Torque app on my phone and bluetooth connection to collect data about my engine's performance and upload it to a website for review later. I've had a slight engine ping sometimes while traveling down the highway and it has been bugging me on the conditions causing it. Re-programming the Jeep PCM to change the timing curve is difficult, expensive or not feasible. During my swap, I took a short-cut by placing a filter on top of the intake similar to what I had with my old weber carb. It wasn't until recent that I installed a proper intake tube and filter. I've gone back through the data before and after the tube install and noticed differences. For highway driving over 60 mph, on average the Engine Load increased by 2 points and the intake pressure increased by 5.5 psi. With the PCM calculations, my timing advance decreased by 4-5 degrees. I didn't think the air intake type would make such a difference.

Since the centrifugal and vacuum advance on my old AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l was still OEM, without having an OEM style air connection and filter, I wonder if it was contributing to the slight pinging I was unable to resolve? Had read about others changing the centrifugal weights to adjust the timing curve but never thought about the air intake.

 

[Torxhead]

With your stats stating 33" tires, are you using a differential gear ratio to compensate for them? Also your stats state a 4.0 with obd2, and you have a oem ignition? I once tried adding a lighter advance spring and it resulted in heavy pinging with a Howell t.b.i. system.

 

[Neuner]

Also your stats state a 4.0 with obd2, and you have a oem ignition?

I don't have anything AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l OEM with my 4.0. Can't use oem ignition with obd2/PCM.

The addition of the air intake tube, which brings the 4.0 closer to its original design parameters, decreased the timing advance overall and therefore the pinging has ceased.

Wasn't looking for resolution. Since it's difficult to pull live information off of a carbureted setup, I threw this cause and effect info out there for anyone that might be able to benefit from it. It would have helped me understand more of how to tweak my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l had I still been running it.

 

[DHugg]

Pressed out the front axle shaft U-Joints with a medium vice. Both were corroded; one side was locked. No wonder the steering was such a bear!

 

[Petescj]

Pressed out the front axle shaft U-Joints with a medium vice. Both were corroded; one side was locked. No wonder the steering was such a bear!

That really wreaked havoc on the Laredo a while back. One of mine needed the old torch to finally free it.

 

[DHugg]

Washed down 1980 CJ7 front axle shafts with degreaser, wirebrushed and dried, treated the surface with OSPHO, Rustoleum undercoat then Rustoleum Apple Red. Gonna polish the u-joint surfaces again and install Spicers today.

 

[Neuner]

Apple Red on axles, that sounds cool. You have got to post pics of this.

 

[Woolyworm]

Finished up my gas tank install. This popped up on my CL AMC auto search.......hmmm......about 2 hours away from me. It's from Cali and he wants $8k. Too bad I don't fit in them .

Wooly

 

[DHugg]

Pressed in new ball joints in right/left Dana 30 knuckles, CJ7 1980. I ground down any bumps or nicks with a Dremel then emeried with 300- & 600-grit to a chrome polish. Even after applying thin grease film, all four were a bear to get seated; vise, 1-5/8 socket, and BFH. Used an old bearing seat off the AMC20 rear axle to allow the ball joint to extend past the knuckle cavity. Set the upper stud collars to 45 pounds torque. Right knuckle swings at 8 pounds on my spring fishing scale. The left side was wanting to hang to about 12-14 pounds, so I backed off the collar until I got 8 pounds to make it swing. Both tubes were crudded with dirt so couldn't get the axles back in today. Tomorrow is another day.

 

[gr8dain]

I can't believe it is almost 6 pm. I have been out in the garage since 9 and haven't eaten anything yet. Oh well. I did make some progress today. And a step or two backwards (as usual).

Ran the wiring to the back lights and ground them. Busted my bits and had to run out and get new ones. All that is left back there is to wire the fuel sending unit and ground the hitch wiring harness.

It took me forever, but I got the e-brake cable hooked up to the pedal. Then I ran the engine wiring. I need to make one more connection for the power to my electric fans, then hopefully that will be complete. Ran the wiring to the Transmission (reverse indicator) and the t case. And I put the hood back on.

So, for the bad........ I tested the lighting. No dash lights. I had tail lights and marker lights. The high beams were on. When I tried to turn them off, the stayed on. I reached down to the plug at the high beam button and then the high beams went off. But no low beams. Looked at the plug and saw that the PO basically taped all of the wires together. No actual plastic plug. Great. Oh and the reverse lights did not come on. I assume it is at the plug on the switch. I will deal with that later. And despite filling the coolant, I have not tried to turn it over yet. No gas and the e-fan is not operational. So tomorrow I will cut the new puck for the radiator and get a longer bolt to mount it to the frame. And I might go to the auto parts place and see about exhaust parts. Won't be able to spend too much time in the garage after today.

Dang, there are a lot of greasy hand prints all over the Scrambler. I will be spending a lot of time cleaning it. Later.