What did you do to or with your CJ today?

What did you do to or with your CJ today?
Yes, thanks for the correction. However, after all those years of loose fitting gears if it were me I would inspect the bearings. Wouldn't be much effort to check aposed to just adding shims.
 
Thanks Guys. I do understand the difference between the measurements.

I've got to little preload on my side bearings. That condition will create an intermittent condition of to much backlash and likely not enough pinion depth as the carrier moves back and forth between the housing.

In order to fix that condition I need to remove the carrier, remove the bearings, make test bearings, add the same number of shims to each side until I get a press in fit of the carrier then have bearings pressed on and reassemble.

If I do all that I would just install new bearings and races.

Then after all that work and money, I wouldn't know if the R&P was set correctly or had worn oddly from the preload being incorrect so it would make sense to me, in the spirit of not putting good money after bad and of doing things right once, that the R&P should be checked by someone - if I'm going to pay for that, I would want to go ahead and replace the R&P and all the bearings etc with it. If I'm going to do all that, then I would want to drop my gearing a bit which then leads to the front axle stuff.

Again - I will likely do all that at some point but it's about a $1200 event to do it right and that's not really in the cards right now.

Which brings me back to...I think I might just put the no slip in, put the cover and lube in and run it. The only thing I care about in there is the no slip and my one piece axles. I don't think that my preload issue is going to cause catastrophic failure that would take those two items out but if it does so be it - then I upgrade.


Wooly
 
Something that I have done in the past to get me by is put shims on the out side of the bearing races to tighten the bearings up. It's not the right way to do it but it would get you by until you could get it done right.
 
Drove back home in some of the strongest wind gusts I've ever experienced in my Jeep. Head wind was so strong, the engine was straining to stay at 55. Felt and sounded like I was doing 85-90. The gust would back off for a moment and the Jeep would jump forward like a frog and I'd quickly be doing more than 70. Wasn't quite the brick aerodynamics because I saw the vehicles around me doing the same. Quite a freaky drive.
 
Wooly - You can do this yourself, it's not magic and with the right tools it's fairly easy. You shouldn't "just run" it like it is. If you do you will always be thinking about the darned thing breaking.
 
Wooly-DON'T DRIVE THAT, TILL FIX'D :eek:
On the AMC20 rear axle, the carrier bearing shims go outboard of the bearings.
Who in the heck set that rearend up?
When you have "0" B/L, and a good gear pattern. Add .004" shims to EACH side of the bearings for the preload.
LG
 
Well if that's the case (haha, joke there :)) then it's sounds fairly easy to set the preload. I'll give it a whirl.

Thanks again.

On another note - the spring kit for my no slip came today :)


Wooly
 
Sorry to turn this into a tech thread but.....

LG - I want to add shims to the driver side of the driver side race until I can't rotate the ring gear with the pinion held from moving. Then I add a .004 shim to the outside of each race - correct?


Wooly
 
That would be a start. Then check your back lash. If its to tight move some shims from the gear teeth side to the other. There are a ton of reference materials that get you started on how much to start with. ..... Yes why not start a tech thread on this.
 
Here is a photo of my ring gear - any thoughts?

083f5563db9889cfc7dc96ffbaa128ef.jpg

155d09ec2be664d3f7fe312ab41a2cd9.jpg

Here is a photo of the 4.10 gear set showing a little pitting - any thoughts?

aaa4a7301ea766133940ed8706335fe7.jpg


Wooly
 
Add equal thickness shims on both sides till you have .006-.008 B/L on the ring gear(you must use a indicator for the reading). THEN add .004 to each side for the pre-load.
ALWAYS ck with the carrier bearing cap bolts at full torque setting.
You will need to CK the gear pattern with marking grease. The drive side of the gear is most important.
If you don't know how to 'read' a pattern, then please refer to this.
https://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Book/Reading-and-Adjusting-Ring-and-Pinion-Tooth-Patterns.pdf
LG
 
Woolyworm said:
Here is a photo of my ring gear - any thoughts?

083f5563db9889cfc7dc96ffbaa128ef.jpg

155d09ec2be664d3f7fe312ab41a2cd9.jpg

Here is a photo of the 4.10 gear set showing a little pitting - any thoughts?

aaa4a7301ea766133940ed8706335fe7.jpg


Wooly
Click to expand...

The pit'n is on the coast side of the gear. The drive side looks fine. I would run it after the correct setup is done.
LG
 
LG - the first 2 photos are of the 3.54 in the axle - the third photo is a different R&P in the 4.10 flavor which I might put in.


Wooly
 
Can you show me any pictures of the pinion as in both the drive side and reverse?
LG
 
Drive side looks good.
If the pinion is about the same-Run it.
IF the bearings have ANY pitting-Change'm out.
Good luck!
LG
 
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