What did you do to or with your CJ today?

[Rescue Diver]

I guess I already answered that................the aftermarket people did a half asx job in that design..............but in all fairness it does help, although we have seen that lower seal compromised / leaking by the force applied in that lower area. That Saginaw 800 box is a great box for what we do without having a special purpose built box made at 3-4 times the cost.
Everything is a compromise!

So in other words, the cheap $60 or $70 design may help, or it might actually cause damage by warping the case where the seal goes? I think I prefer mine being bolted to thick tab on the bottom of the housing better. It might not be a bad idea to reinforce the area around the bearing and seal with something that's only there to protect it and not used as a mounting point that would take abuse. An exhaust clamp maybe?

 

[tarry99]

Well the difference is that applying force to that area at the sector shaft is really the only place that will do the job. Simply put that is where all the torsional force is generated.
Where yours is mounted may help but your asking the force to travel through the gear box to aid in the support of the sector shaft. That may get you a cracked case as that long looking tube cast in the case above where you mounted yours is actually hollow as oil flows through there from front to rear.
In engineering terms you always want to apply the stabilizing force opposite the applied force.
Hope that helps!

 

[Rescue Diver]

Well the difference is that applying force to that area at the sector shaft is really the only place that will do the job. Simply put that is where all the torsional force is generated.
Where yours is mounted may help but your asking the force to travel through the gear box to aid in the support of the sector shaft. That may get you a cracked case as that long looking tube cast in the case above where you mounted yours is actually hollow as oil flows through there from front to rear.
In engineering terms you always want to apply the stabilizing force opposite the applied force.
Hope that helps!

I drilled low on the tab to avoid getting too close to the hollow area above, and I only went 3/8" The bar end of my mount is actually what the case will push against. I made it so the stress would be spread out across the whole contact area. The bolt is really just holding the bar in place. Considering that the factory mounts on the other side aren't exactly near the shaft, I think my design will hold up as well as any. As of now I'm really happy with it because I can already tell a big difference without the box flexing. The wheel has much less play.

 

[dave robinson]

I pulled off the trim under the doors and cleaned off all the black paint that was chipping off. I don't know if I should repaint them or not, I also installed some shade cloth on the sport bar to help with the wind with the hard top off. The girl friend dosent like the ride home from work at midnight with all the wind in the cab, we both work nights together.

 

[GatorBate]

Finished installing the OX in the front yesterday. Took her out for a test run through the rock canyons WOW. You get all four wheels turning and you can really go places. Had to cut it short when the top radiator tank sprung a leak. Spent the evening soldering the upper hose fitting back on. A new radiator just got put on the short list.

 

[Rescue Diver]

Over the weekend I shortened my front bumper 6" on each end and welded up a brush guard.

 

[IOPort51]

I didn't actually do anything on the CJ yesterday we went to a 4 wheel parts sales/truck show/gathering of the off road world at Dallas market hall.

I got to look at the Super Swamper LTB off road tires up close. These things are almost scarey. they were with no doubt the most aggressive tread design of anything I have seen. The options for me are 31 and 33s and to be honest I don't think I can carry 33s that are 13 inches wide and weigh almost 65 pounds each.

I am most definitely thinking about the 31x11.50x15s

 

[rodscj]

replaced the spring shackles and bushings. Sure drives nice now, no more po mismatch parts.

 

[bondo258]

Liking the shortened front bumper, RD. I need to do mine.

Dang priorities.

Yesterday I measured up what was needed to build my own cold-air induction for my TBI Setup. Big Carb guys, A thread will be forthcoming if this stuff isn't a scam.

Summer is coming, fast. Under-hood is nowhere to get your intake stream from. This isn't 1983. We all know better.

Bought an E-bay Chevy truck setup, It sucked. Air from behind my Alternator? Real cold air? Not so much. In front of the Alt. would have been worse, though.

The snail plenum is going to be re-used, with my spacer. Everything else to build it (AFAIK) without using plumbing supplies and bone-yard scrounging was a grand total of sixty dollars.

Turbo-quality elbows, reducers, connectors, and straight-pipes. Thank the Creator for Internet sales. The big-guy "hot-rod" and truck Performance Houses don't carry anything I needed. Or wanted.

 

[Rescue Diver]

I killed a baby bunny with my jeep this morning.

The little bugger ran out in front of me as I was rounding a corner near my house and there was nothing I could do.

 

[Rescue Diver]

Liking the shortened front bumper, RD. I need to do mine.

Dang priorities.

Yesterday I measured up what was needed to build my own cold-air induction for my TBI Setup. Big Carb guys, A thread will be forthcoming if this stuff isn't a scam.

Summer is coming, fast. Under-hood is nowhere to get your intake stream from. This isn't 1983. We all know better.

Bought an E-bay Chevy truck setup, It sucked. Air from behind my Alternator? Real cold air? Not so much. In front of the Alt. would have been worse, though.

The snail plenum is going to be re-used, with my spacer. Everything else to build it (AFAIK) without using plumbing supplies and bone-yard scrounging was a grand total of sixty dollars.

Turbo-quality elbows, reducers, connectors, and straight-pipes. Thank the Creator for Internet sales. The big-guy "hot-rod" and truck Performance Houses don't carry anything I needed. Or wanted.

I'd like to go to a cold air intake to make room for a 95 YJ power brake booster. It just pisses me off that nobody sells a cold air intake plenum that bolts to a 5-1/8" carb flang for a reasonable price!

 

[tarry99]

Hood Louvers are a good compromise to get cooler air in the engine compartment.

 

[Rescue Diver]

Hood Louvers are a good compromise to get cooler air in the engine compartment.

And lots of water on the engine.

Not to mention that I'm not about to cut up my hood and repaint it to avoid engineering a cold air intake.

The main reason I want one is to clear extra room by the carb for a larger diameter 1995 YJ power brake booster.

 

[bondo258]

Hood Louvers are a good compromise to get cooler air in the engine compartment. Today 09:04 AM

My plan is to install a stock cowl vent a few inches behind the footman loop on the hood as well. Need to figure out the aerodynamics on this before cutting.

It will match the one we already have, and it's a stock part so it won't look out of place.

Easy enough (in theory anyway) to make a baffle to protect underhood parts, and drain somewhere harmless.

It just pisses me off that nobody sells a cold air intake plenum that bolts to a 5-1/8" carb flang for a reasonable price!

Read more: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f49/what-did-you-do-your-cj-today-753/index158.html#ixzz1vc93bEmL
​

Reasonable is a subjective term. I found a GM truck TBI cold air intake (5 1/8 ) on ebay. (good set, just don't work with I-6 Jeeps too well) Never could find the early-mid 90's Cadillac plenum everyone talks about, at the boneyards, or online.

The plenum from this kit fit's ok, a 5 dollar carb/air filter spacer was required to clear valve cover. Odd 3 1/2 tube size, too.

Nothing common fits it, plumbing reducers don't even fit without serious compromises. Plumbing stuff is wrong to begin with, two wrongs don't make it under my hood, even for a "test".

Ebay TBI plenum has to be installed passenger side facing, due to the "curl" of it. I have a booster as well. I feel your pain, RD. Used to run a 7 inch round air filter, the 9 inch hit the MC when wheeling from flex/torque.

Like I said, if this vendor can deliver what was advertised as far as adapters, connecters, reducers, and tubing etc. for my intake build, I will have a setup that usually cost 250+ plus on other vehicles, for much, much less.

I will have pics and parts list if successful. It's been a long, desperate battle.

 

[tarry99]

Diver,

If your driving in the rain , water is already everywhere under the hood.
Louvers and cold air intakes have been around for decades, by diverting air and proper placement of louvers water has never been an issue.

 

[Rescue Diver]

Diver,

If your driving in the rain , water is already everywhere under the hood.
Louvers and cold air intakes have been around for decades, by diverting air and proper placement of louvers water has never been an issue.

But when your car is just sitting in the rain, water is pouring through the louvers. Think I'll pass. As far as it being everywhere under the hood when driving, most of it's diverted by my wheel wells.

Honestly, I'm not really a big fan of cold air intakes. They're kind of ricer in my book. I'm only looking into it out of necessity because of clearance issues with the brakes.

 

[bondo258]

Honestly, I'm not really a big fan of cold air intakes

CJ's came with Cold Air intakes.

They were called snorkels and brought "cold" air into the air cleaner housing.

The squared oval cutouts behind your headlights is where they drew "cold" air from. Not engine heated, radiator heated air, of underhood drawing filters, but "cold", ambient outside air.

This is what I am trying to duplicate.

Nothing came stock with the round air cleaner style that "performance shops" sell. Running these won't necessarily harm anything with carbs but with fuel injection without an Intake air sensor, bad things can happen.

I'm not suggesting mounting the filter next to the steering gear, or behind the bumper, or anything goofy like that. I just want Air entering my manifold, not being heated by the radiator and engine. Just like it was from the factory.

We have the same clearance issues, and aftermarket doesn't support AMC I-6 5 1/8th air cleaners with brake booster applications.

 

[Rescue Diver]

CJ's came with Cold Air intakes.

They were called snorkels and brought "cold" air into the air cleaner housing.

The squared oval cutouts behind your headlights is where they drew "cold" air from. Not engine heated, radiator heated air, of underhood drawing filters, but "cold", ambient outside air.

This is what I am trying to duplicate.

Nothing came stock with the round air cleaner style that "performance shops" sell. Running these won't necessarily harm anything with carbs but with fuel injection without an Intake air sensor, bad things can happen.

I'm not suggesting mounting the filter next to the steering gear, or behind the bumper, or anything goofy like that. I just want Air entering my manifold, not being heated by the radiator and engine. Just like it was from the factory.

We have the same clearance issues, and aftermarket doesn't support AMC I-6 5 1/8th air cleaners with brake booster applications.

I originally had a 1 barrel Carter carb and the stock air cleaner, and was planning to buy a hose to run to the square opening near the headlight, but then I did the 4.0 head swap and MC2100 carb with the 5-1/8" flange and all bets were off. My engine runs pretty cool, and CJ's have all kinds of space under the hood and good air flow, so I'm not too worried about cold air. But I will admit that putting the filter on the passenger side of the motor instead of it being directly above the exhaust manifold isn't a bad idea at all.

 

[Rescue Diver]

I ordered a cold air intake off of ebay for $44 with free shipping, and a 3" diameter adapter for a toyota supra mass air flow sensor for $10 delivered. Then I bought a 5" diameter metal cap for a heater duct at home depot, drilled the rivets out and expanded it just enough to fit the carb and put in new rivets. I then painted it with black wrinkle paint to match the valve cover. I'll cut a hole in the top and screw on the MAF adapter so I can hook up the cold air intake. I also plan to paint the cold air intake aluminum tubing with the black wrinkle paint so it doesn't look so ricer. The filter will be right behind the passenger side headlight, far from the exhaust manifold, and out of the way of the air stream from the fan. I'll post pics when it's done.

 

[Rescue Diver]

Today I ordered a Made in America Aussie XD-13027 lunchbox locker for my Dana 30 front axle. Can't wait to install it!

It's raining in Kansas City this morning but it's supposed to stop later, so I decided to drive the CJ to work again today and make use of my new Bestop cover for the first time.