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I just took mine to the Post Office and on the way home, I heard a pop and my butt sank about 2 inches. When I got out, I saw that the lateral support under the seat broke. I could fix it, or enjoy the extra headroom I now have.
1981 CJ5/258 4.2L I6, Tremec T-176 4-speed, Dana 300, Power Steering, Howell Throttle Body Injection System, Warn Locking Hubs, Warn Rock Crawler front/rear bumper with Tire Swing Carrier, Full Roll Cage, Pro Comp ES9000 shocks
I just took mine to the Post Office and on the way home, I heard a pop and my butt sank about 2 inches. When I got out, I saw that the lateral support under the seat broke. I could fix it, or enjoy the extra headroom I now have.
1981 CJ5/258 4.2L I6, Tremec T-176 4-speed, Dana 300, Power Steering, Howell Throttle Body Injection System, Warn Locking Hubs, Warn Rock Crawler front/rear bumper with Tire Swing Carrier, Full Roll Cage, Pro Comp ES9000 shocks
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
'79 CJ5, 258 I6, T150 w/Dana20, Dana30 front and AMC20 rear. My first Jeep! I'm looking forward to doing some minor upgrades and restoration while enjoying the ride.
I replaced the bellcrank (and small parts) and the clutch pedal rod that connects to the bellcrank with a new rod that has heim joints on the ends (thanks LG).
'79 CJ5, 258 I6, T150 w/Dana20, Dana30 front and AMC20 rear. My first Jeep! I'm looking forward to doing some minor upgrades and restoration while enjoying the ride.
I have never seen anything close to this before so it threw me for a loop.
I was working on building a new rod with heim joints from scratch and LG came to the rescue and linked me to one. Guess I shouldn't have been surprised that they made such a thing because there had to be so many of us out there that need that kinda part.
'79 CJ5, 258 I6, T150 w/Dana20, Dana30 front and AMC20 rear. My first Jeep! I'm looking forward to doing some minor upgrades and restoration while enjoying the ride.
I'm keeping that stock bellcrank and I'll have my machinist guy patch up the hole. It fits perfectly so I know it will make a good spare someday, maybe even a part for a fellow Jeeper.
So this past week I've been on vacation so I'm counting Mon-Fri as one long Jeep fixing day.....
So after the clutch linkage stuff I replaced the alternator. I found that I had a 10si 63 amp in there but with the addition of the MSD and electric fan I wanted to upgrade that. I was adding about 29 amps at max draw so it just seemed a good idea. I upgraded to a 12si 94 amp model. I did the research and found that the 12si had a much better cooling system so it seemed a great idea over another 10si model. My stock wires from the 10si went right in and everything is sitting between 13.5 - 14 volts from idle up.
I found a small coolant leak at the hose connection at the firewall. The hoses look like they had been on there a good while and didn't look right. Found that the heater core is made for a 5/8 hose but the water pump / thermostat housing is made for a 3/4 hose. Some PO just used 3/4 hose and really clamped it down at the firewall. I got a couple of adapters and did 3/4 at the front of the engine and stepped them down to the proper 5/8 to the heater core. I also added one of those fill pieces in the middle of the line, but I added it to the first line I installed so it's on the lower of the two.... but at least it's there! Draining the radiator was the biggest headache. My radiator has a petcock valve on the bottom of it so I thought it would be a lot simpler. I opened the valve and nothing happened. I think it was just for the automatic Transmission fluid which I don't use. Why doesn't every radiator come with a drain valve on the bottom???? We've had these things for 100 years and they can't put a drain valve in them yet??
Also found a very slight oil leak at the block I installed the other week for my oil pressure switch / sending unit line. It was not a drip but it was getting the block wet around the brass fitting. Tore that apart, got some new ferrel fittings and re-gooped all the connections with liquid plumbers tape. Let it all dry for almost 24 hours and so far so good. Properly sealing up an oil leak is one of the best darn feelings on any kind of vehicle!!!
Finally got all my wiring from the MSD install tucked away and routed with the stock loom so things are nice and clean again.
New battery post terminals and a new cable from the solenoid to the starter motor. I wire brushed all the nuts, washers and lock washers so they would have nice clean contact areas. I even put some of them to a flat file to make sure the surface area was good. I love good connections.
Added a ground strap from the engine to the frame and re-did a body ground connection that was just hanging around unused. I will be doing a full ground system with good heavy wire later, as my idols did on their jeeps (from my Ground Strap thread).
Tore out the PO's stereo, wiring, power amp system... Left the speakers just because. It was a rats next of wiring hanging out of the dash and onto the passenger side floor.
Got my twin sticks bent and buttoned up with a stronghold shiftboot.
Then tried to swap on a new front t case yoke but I need to buy one made for the ubolts. So that will wait I guess. So I am only in rwd at this point. But the new to me t case is set up with a 4 to 1 ratio so I am looking forward to that when I go wheeling at the end of the month.
1982 CJ 7
It has the original I6, 5 speed manual tranny and I know nothing about transfer case and diffs..
If someone is reading this please send me a message about how to figure out these things and I will get it straight
Drove mine to a local cars and coffee event with my son. Saw some cool exotics, a bunch of drift cars, and lots of vettes and dodges (although the demon was cool).
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
Got my twin sticks bent and buttoned up with a stronghold shiftboot.
Then tried to swap on a new front t case yoke but I need to buy one made for the ubolts. So that will wait I guess. So I am only in rwd at this point. But the new to me t case is set up with a 4 to 1 ratio so I am looking forward to that when I go wheeling at the end of the month.
Dain is the boot one boot for the 3 sticks ? Or 2 boots, 1 for Transmission and 1 for twin sticks ? Seams like I remember them having 1 single for the combo, but it being for 1 stick Transfer Case . Which model was it ?
Dain is the boot one boot for the 3 sticks ? Or 2 boots, 1 for Trans and 1 for twin sticks ? Seams like I remember them having 1 single for the combo, but it being for 1 stick transfer case. Which model was it ?
This is a one piece boot with the three cones (one for each shifter). Basically three cones sewn together. I am happy with the quality of the unit. I have a T-176 with a Dana 300Transfer Case . And I ordered the boot for that application, with twin sticks of course. He hand makes them as ordered. He offers different colored stitching and I thought about getting blue string. But decided black was better.
I love how the little tag on it says “Made in my Garage” like you would see a Made in the USA or Made in China.
'79 CJ5, 258 I6, T150 w/Dana20, Dana30 front and AMC20 rear. My first Jeep! I'm looking forward to doing some minor upgrades and restoration while enjoying the ride.
