• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.

Will these D60 work on a CJ7?

Will these D60 work on a CJ7?

jfmcj7

Jeeper
Posts
99
Media
4
Thanks
2
Location
La Quinta, California
Vehicle(s)
1985 CJ7
2012 2 Door Rubicon
Hi folks

I friend send me this info on a set of D60 that is for sell about an hour from me. I still have the stock AMC20 and Dana 30 with stock 2.73 gears in my 85 CJ7 . I want to do a re-gear and locker install but know that it will not be cheep nor a good idea on the stock axles.

I have been looking for a good set of Dana 44 for a long time but can't find what I am looking for. Was thinking of getting a set of JK take offs since they are cheep and all over the place, but then I sit with a driver side diff and will need a new Transfer Case witch cost more money.

My main concern is that the JK axles and these will be to wide for the CJ since both will be about 10" wider than the stock wide track axles in the CJ7 . Plus the set of D60's has a "king pin" steering set-up and I have no experience with that and don't know it that will even work on a CJ. The price on the set is $4000 obo.

Any input will be great.

Thanks

Front Dana 60 king pin low pinion passenger side drop. New 35 spline Outers, new king pin bearings, seals, bushings. Warn drive flanges. All new bearings through out the axle. Arb locker, 4.56 genuine spicer gears. We're talking everything has been done! Everything!
Converted to 5 on 5.5 Lug pattern for all you incognito purists. Uses Chevy long side inner shaft and Ford short side inner shaft to get to narrowed 66.75" wms

Rear Dana 60 semi float 5 on 5.5" Lug pattern 35 spline 65.5" wms, spool and 4.56 genuine spicer gears. This is the coveted J4000 gladiator axle.
Everything has been gone through, new axle bearings and seals,brakes, wheel cylinders, everything! Includes park brake cables too!
 
They would work, they are full width and will take some work to get them attached to your Jeep, think outboard front leaf springs. King pins are the desirable knuckle joint on a D60. I would not recommend them unless you have a big V8 and are doing a lot of off-roading


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The OP's '85 only came OEM with a 6 or 4 popper. With mention of the 2:73 ratio, my bet is a 6.
Since we still have to SMOG our CJ's here in PRK:mad:. Don't think he'll be switching to an 8 unless he wins the lotto. :D
Be cheaper to just regear the OEM axles.
LG
 
First question would what tire size are you planning to run? Important question if your planning to run tons.
Also, the front 60 is from a 1 ton and the rear 60 is from a 3/4 ton truck
You can run a 4 cyl with tons on 42s if geared properly. I have a friend that can't kill is 4 banger, and he is trying.
4K is too much even for a setup 60s in my area.
Another option, buy a beat Chevy K30
I bought a runner with a plow for $600, kept the axles and sold off the rest for just over $2000 = free 1 tons
There is work involved in making them work so tire size and the type of wheeling you plan to do has to be considered before hand if it hasn't already.
 
Thanks for all the input.

Jeep has a small lift done by previous owner, maybe 2". Jeep sits on 31" tires with 1" body lift Has stock AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l 6 in it and 3 speed auto. Due to budget and CA smog, a V8 will not be done anytime soon.

Plan is to fit 35" tires and do moderate to "hard" trails with it and not have to worry about breaking an axle.

I am a bit concern about the width of these axles and will keep looking for something ells.

Thanks for all the input.
 
If you plan on 35's, look hard a a 4:1 t'case conversion also.
Agree you don't want 35's and OEM axles. The rear 20 brakes are a joke.
Have you look'd at 33's? :confused:
Have you looked into a Ford 9" for the rear, and a 44 for the front?
OLG
 
If you plan on 35's, look hard a a 4:1 t'case conversion also.
Agree you don't want 35's and OEM axles. The rear 20 brakes are a joke.
Have you look'd at 33's? :confused:
Have you looked into a Ford 9" for the rear, and a 44 for the front?
OLG

33" Is not out of the question.The 4:1 t'case is on the books to do. Rear 44's and Ford 9" axles pop op every once in a while but it is hard to find a front axle with a passenger side drip.

Thanks for the input.
 
My setup has worked very well for me for many years now.:notworthy:
Done more than a few 'rock' trials.
LG
 
Hi folks

I friend send me this info on a set of D60 that is for sell about an hour from me. I still have the stock AMC20 and Dana 30 with stock 2.73 gears in my 85 CJ7 . I want to do a re-gear and locker install but know that it will not be cheep nor a good idea on the stock axles.

I have been looking for a good set of Dana 44 for a long time but can't find what I am looking for. Was thinking of getting a set of JK take offs since they are cheep and all over the place, but then I sit with a driver side diff and will need a new Transfer Case witch cost more money.

My main concern is that the JK axles and these will be to wide for the CJ since both will be about 10" wider than the stock wide track axles in the CJ7 . Plus the set of D60's has a "king pin" steering set-up and I have no experience with that and don't know it that will even work on a CJ. The price on the set is $4000 obo.

Any input will be great.

Thanks

Front Dana 60 king pin low pinion passenger side drop. New 35 spline Outers, new king pin bearings, seals, bushings. Warn drive flanges. All new bearings through out the axle. Arb locker, 4.56 genuine spicer gears. We're talking everything has been done! Everything!
Converted to 5 on 5.5 Lug pattern for all you incognito purists. Uses Chevy long side inner shaft and Ford short side inner shaft to get to narrowed 66.75" wms

Rear Dana 60 semi float 5 on 5.5" Lug pattern 35 spline 65.5" wms, spool and 4.56 genuine spicer gears. This is the coveted J4000 gladiator axle.
Everything has been gone through, new axle bearings and seals,brakes, wheel cylinders, everything! Includes park brake cables too!


My original Dana 30 front and AMC20 rear are still working fine. All you need is American made 1 piece axles in the rear. Throw in some 3.31 or 3.50 gears at most, lock them up and be done with your axle hunt.

Since you are talking SMOG, why go to all the trouble and expense running 60's on a 2700lb street Jeep? They look terrible with the tires way off the body. And in California, the CHP will ticket you if your flares don't cover the tires. I used to get pulled over all the time when I was running 39.5" tall x 18" wide Boggers. Couldn't find a flare wide enough lol.

My 30 and 20 will go anyplace a 60 will. Do it all the time. Guys running 60's think they are invincible. Have to pull them out all the time. My axles are lighter, original to the Jeep, have TON more pumpkin ground clearance and look better far as tire placement goes.

slomo
 
3:31 R&P with 39's. :confused:
You must be run'n a 15 speed, Eaton tranny then.
:laugh:

LG
 
30/20 run with the 1 tons?
Not in the northeast
We do have a member here that runs 30/20 chromoly shafts in the northeast with guys running 3/4 and tons, his rear axle is shaped like a smiley face.
You can hear the grinding on rotation if you walk behind him.
With the bent tubes he now has less diff clearance.
He will need an upgrade this winter.
 
:agree:

20's with their thin axle tubes don't last long in our 'rock-gardens' here in the Mojave.
LG
 
I’ve been running an AMC20 rear and a Dana 30 front on my 80 CJ5 for some time now and it works just fine. I regeared to 3.73 and installed ARB air lockers on both ends. I put in one piece axles on the rear and welded the axle tubes. I installed 4:1 Terra Low gears in the transfer and an still using a T-176 tranny behind a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l six engine. My tires are BFG 33” X 12” All Terrain. I keep up with most in the rocks and blow their doors off out on the open road.

The reason for this long winded discourse is to point out that the original front and rear axles on this Jeep series work just fine and if you have any misgivings about two piece axles, the simple cure is to install one piece. They are plenty strong and you don’t have to start trying to figure out suspension and steering geometry on an axle conversion.

My daily driver is a TJ Rubicon. It has Dana 44 ’s on both ends with air lockers and a 4:1 transfer. It is a nice vehicle to drive and rides nice. It has a stereo and air conditioning and my wife loves it. But when we go out for some serious four wheeling, we both prefer the CJ.
 
Bill-Didn't the NT 20's have thicker tubes back then? :confused:
I run the same size tires and had no problem bowing my WT 20 axle in my '85 CJ7 .
LG
 
30/20 run with the 1 tons?
Not in the northeast
We do have a member here that runs 30/20 chromoly shafts in the northeast with guys running 3/4 and tons, his rear axle is shaped like a smiley face.
You can hear the grinding on rotation if you walk behind him.
With the bent tubes he now has less diff clearance.
He will need an upgrade this winter.

If I intended to rock crawl like you New Englanders, I would truss the axles. You have to admit that your 4-wheeling tends to get a bit more extreme than most.
 
My post was in reference to the comparison between 1/4” ton and 1 ton axle.
IMO, the 30/20 with one piece shafts with 33” tires will do just fine especially if your geared properly.

Edit: for the record I’ve snapped a few 44 chromoly shafts as well with not much throttle. Sometimes it’s more where and what terrain you wheel then your equipment.
 
Last edited:

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$0.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  0.0%
Back
Top Bottom