232 still wont run in my 77 CJ7 ???

232 still wont run in my 77 CJ7 ???
The T-18 (4.02 first) was available as an optional 4-speed from '71 to '75, and the T18A (6.32 first) was available from '76 to '79. The T-98 ('55 to '70) had an even lower 6.40.

That's not proof positive that the '77 you're going to look at actually has a real T18A, though... it's possible a previous owner has changed out the whole driveline. Stranger things have happened.
 
Well i checked it out, im rather jealous the 5 was so damn clean and had NO rust and i guess it was a father son project that the guy got becuase the kids dad passed away and the wife owed him some money. All he knew about it was that it was a 5 and that maybe the AMC 304 had been rebuilt, he wants 1000 for it including the brand new tires on it, it doesnt have a carb, but he has a holley fuel injection kit that i could get from him to and throw on the AMC 304 . The only thing it needs really is seats and its a Renegade model. The coolest thing was the other 5 he had, it has a 383 chrysler engine that it TWIN turboed and is just insane.
 
A thousand for that Renegade ? Go GET it. For real. Go GET it. TOMORROW.
 
I wish i could it would be real nice the AMC 304 with the 4 speed and then buy the injection kit off him to and have a 5 to drive around alot sooner then my 7 but the dictator says I cant :(

Tell her your going to spend a lot more than $1000 to get yours running.:D
This one is way cheaper in the long run. Heck the new tires are worth at least 1/2 of what he wants for it.
 
Tell her your going to spend a lot more than $1000 to get yours running.:D
This one is way cheaper in the long run. Heck the new tires are worth at least 1/2 of what he wants for it.

Ya i dont think she would fall for that one to easily, :confused: and either way i would have to spend 1000 for it, then either money on a carb or the holley fuel injection kit from him and hope it was rebuilt like the lady said and put some gas and seats in it and go. Its just such a bummer because this is such a clean straight 5 i honestly dont think you'd find a better one around for the price. Just kinda wish i would have found this before my 7 it would have been alot less hassel. But a CJ is a CJ you cant buy one that is perfect, or you wouldnt have built it yourself and it wouldnt be perfect for you.
 
Ya i dont think she would fall for that one to easily, :confused: and either way i would have to spend 1000 for it, then either money on a carb or the holley fuel injection kit from him and hope it was rebuilt like the lady said and put some gas and seats in it and go. Its just such a bummer because this is such a clean straight 5 i honestly dont think you'd find a better one around for the price. Just kinda wish i would have found this before my 7 it would have been alot less hassel. But a CJ is a CJ you cant buy one that is perfect, or you wouldnt have built it yourself and it wouldnt be perfect for you.

Now that you know a lot more about cj's and what you want and don't want, do you think you could unload the 7 for coin of the realm and go another way? Of course it would be worth a lot more if it actually ran. Just saying.:cool:
 
COREY! You posted here again and you haven't BOUGHT that Renegade yet! That's just WRONG, man!

Don't let us catching you posting here again till you can say "I bought it!", y'hear, son? If you LOSE that one... go join the Suzuki forum or something. :D
 
Now that you know a lot more about cj's and what you want and don't want, do you think you could unload the 7 for coin of the realm and go another way? Of course it would be worth a lot more if it actually ran. Just saying.:cool:

I could probably sell the 7 after i get the timing set and it running with all the extras and such and easily buy the 5 and buy the holley fuel injection kit and drive the 5 and enjoy the hell out of it, but i would have to see 2000-2500 to be out of the 7, id have to count the receipts again and check but i know without even checking 2k is the least amount.

Well the Dictator said when i get this one running, i can sell it and buy the 5 just as long as i get over 2k, so im going to get the timing set tomorrow and try to get it fired up. Surplus City Jeep parts still hasnt taken money out of my account or anything for that timing chain and its been 2 weeks or longer, so im going to give in and spend the extra 20 bucks at the parts store.
 
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Well TD i bought myself a .....timing chain set! haha so im going to tear into that bad boy tonight or tomorrow depending on what the misses has planned, we may be going to the Monster Trucks which is an alright option to not working on the CJ and we have to go workout to, so maybe if im feeling ambitious ill stay up all night till i get it running.
 
so maybe if im feeling ambitious ill stay up all night till i get it running.

Ok, NOW you're talkin' like a true Jeeper. :)

The timing set's a good solid step in the right direction... but I STILL wanna' read your "Bought It!" gloat!
 
You won't need to disturb the water pump.

When you get the timing cover off with the motor at TDC compression stroke, here's exactly what your timing chain & sprockets should look like:

2mre4q9.jpg

Now... if you're at TDC between the exhaust & intake strokes, the smaller crankshaft sprocket's timing mark will still be at the same position, but the camshaft sprocket's timing mark will be diametrically opposite - it'll be pointing up to the 8:00 position instead. You'll want to roll the crankshaft over 360 degrees (one full turn) if that's the case - then the camshaft sprocket will be lined up correctly again.

If the chain has jumped one tooth, it'll be impossible to get it all lined up as in the picture - the camshaft sprocket will have rotated 10 degrees per tooth jumped. It's REALLY UNLIKELY that it'll have jumped more than one tooth, 'cause once it jumps a tooth it starts running like hammered :dung:.

So... your goal will be to get the timing mark on the smaller CRANKSHAFT sprocket to be exactly in a straight line drawn between the center of the crankshaft and the center of the camshaft. That is absolutely, positively, the position you want, regardless of anything else - camshaft, distributor, damper, anything.

At that point, the timing mark on the larger camshaft sprocket should be ALSO on that line, the straight line between the center of the crankshaft & the center of the camshaft. If it's not, the chain has jumped a tooth... but that's why we're here, and after we get the chain off we can rotate the camshaft to where it NEEDS to be if it's not there already.

So... now that we've got the camshaft positioned & the chain & sprockets off, we hang the new chain around the new sprockets as best we can so that the timing marks are pointed towards each other just like in the picture again. We put the whole rig together on the crank & camshaft ends, verifying once more as soon as they'll hang there by themselves. If we're a tooth off, it'll be pretty obvious. If we're not, we finish putting 'em on.

Once they're fully in place, we can relax about not disturbing the engine and rotate the crankshaft around to this position:

2usud80.jpg

That's where we can count the chain teeth. Go ahead, count 'em in the picture - there's 15. That's exactly what yours needs to look like. If it's anything else, we've gotta' do it again... but that's what it's gonna' look like 'cause you pay attention to detail, right? :)

Now that it's there & verified, it won't hurt to squirt some clean motor oil all over the chain with an oil can so it gets a good start on life. It's probably already lubed when it arrives, which accounts for the condition of your hands right now... but it can't hurt to add a little more good wet oil.

That's it - chain's replaced, valve train's timed. Time to get the timing cover & fan back on.

So i bought the timing chain today and i took it out of the box and the TIMING MARK on the CAM Shaft sprocket is pointed opposite at 12 o'clock so before i put it on do i need to the Cam Shaft Sprocket at 6 o clock and the crankshaft sprocket at 12 o clock? Because that will have them lined up how the picture above shows with the timing marks pointing at each other? just checking for reference, and i bought the Hi-Tech sealant to put on also and i got the gasket set with the oil seal. I have a feeling im gonna get at this tonight, just need to have the misses help me TDC it before hand.
 
Keeping the chain on the sprockets, rotate the crankshaft sprocket exactly one turn. That'll rotate the camshaft sprocket exactly 1/2 turn, and the timing marks will then line up.

If they don't, just shuffle the chain around the sprocket(s) until they DO line up.

When you take the timing set off the motor, they MUST be lined up first. When you put the new set on, THEY must be lined up to fit in place.
 
Keeping the chain on the sprockets, rotate the crankshaft sprocket exactly one turn. That'll rotate the camshaft sprocket exactly 1/2 turn, and the timing marks will then line up.

If they don't, just shuffle the chain around the sprocket(s) until they DO line up.

When you take the timing set off the motor, they MUST be lined up first. When you put the new set on, THEY must be lined up to fit in place.

TD thanks a whole lot for putting up with my in depth wonderful questions ha :D but what im trying to say is the (NEW) timing chain out of the box has the camshaft sprocket with the timing mark pointed at 12 o'clock and has the chain around it and the crankshaft sprocket wasnt put in the chain but, when i go to put the NEW set on should I, before hand move the cam shaft sprocket to the 6 o clock position and the crankshaft to 12 o clock so they are identical to how the picture looks when I put them on, But as you said i pay attention to details :)

So when i time the engine today and pull everything off and see where the Crankshaft sprocket is sitting, If it off a TOOTH, then can i losen the chain and move the crankshaft sprocket so it is aligned with the cam shaft sprocket and pull the old chain off and put the new one on exactly like is pictured, because when i remove it and move the crank, if it is off, it would be identical to the picture above. Im sorry again for all the questions, just wanna do it right and get the damn thing running!
 
I think I understand now - the loose loop of chain was pointed away from the timing mark on the camshaft pulley when you took it out of the box? It was just slipped on however the monkey at the factory slipped it on. Feel free to take the chain off that sprocket & lay it (on something clean) off to the side - its position is totally immaterial until assembly time.

At DISASSEMBLY time, you really NEED to rotate the crankshaft until the OLD timing marks are lined up as shown in the drawing before you take the old timing set off. Then you line up the NEW set so they're lined up exactly the same way - timing marks pointing toward each other - before you put them on. DO NOT MOVE EITHER THE CRANK OR THE CAMSHAFT while you have the timing chain off!
 
I think I understand now - the loose loop of chain was pointed away from the timing mark on the camshaft pulley when you took it out of the box? It was just slipped on however the monkey at the factory slipped it on. Feel free to take the chain off that sprocket & lay it (on something clean) off to the side - its position is totally immaterial until assembly time.

At DISASSEMBLY time, you really NEED to rotate the crankshaft until the OLD timing marks are lined up as shown in the drawing before you take the old timing set off. Then you line up the NEW set so they're lined up exactly the same way - timing marks pointing toward each other - before you put them on. DO NOT MOVE EITHER THE CRANK OR THE CAMSHAFT while you have the timing chain off!

So i just pulled the front grille off kinda sorta,after spilling some ANTI FREEZE :mad::censored::censored: god dang wireing looms to my headlights are a BIG pain to its sitting off to the side instead of being completely off and i just removed the fan and belt, Quick question was, when removing the harmonic balancer bolts, it wont move will it?!?
 
Um... "won't move"... the balancer, or the Jeep, or the radiator/grille, or the crankshaft timing? The Jeep shouldn't move if it's chocked, the balancer is keyed onto the crankshaft so there's only one possible way it can fit there (it can't rotate on the crankshaft nose unless the key is sheared off or not installed), the radiator/grille shouldn't move unless the Jeep moves (chocks), and the crankshaft timing... if it moves at all, it'll should be minimal, and counterclockwise (looking rearward from the front bumper). Take it off and put the balancer bolt back on (WITHOUT the washer). When you get the timing cover off, you can use that balancer bolt to tweak the crankshaft back clockwise (with your big wrench or socket) until the timing marks on the sprockets line up again. Then don't disturb it until the new timing set is installed.

It'll be done here in a VERY short while... you'll be pleased with how well it'll go. :) Quick, too, now that we're to this point.
 

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