Bad vibration above 1900

Bad vibration above 1900
Germy said:
Too true! I will have a professional look closer as I do not have the knowledge for those types of issues. Tomorrow, I'm going to finish cleaning the block. Should I wait to paint till assembled? I'm not painting the intake or timing cover, so I'd have to be careful painting the front right? I can't get paint under the timining cover? Just not sure where to start to get moving before the parts get back from the shop. The whole jeep is caked with grease thicker than poopie from years of bad leaks I assume. What to do?
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:)Germy,
You need to clean the block and exposed parts best you can..........No paint under the timing cover..........mask off the area's you don't want paint on and shoot it.

You say you have a friend that has knowledge that will help, Hopefully he will also assist you in the assembly of all your new parts. If you have the ability tow the Jeep somewhere and either power wash or steam clean it.

And hopefully you have confirmed what motor & Flywheel you have.

Like I said before go to a local Napa or other parts store and talk to the parts person about the clutch combination you need............not saying you have to buy it there, just get educated!
:D:D:D:D
 
Ok, now thinking .30 over and decked, washed crank bearings pistons. I think that I should take caree of the bottom end too as all have advised. Just want to get her runnin again. Patience young grasshopper
 
Is it impracticalmto beef up a 360. Like, boring decking etc..
 
Germy said:
Is it impracticalmto beef up a 360. Like, boring decking etc..
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:)Germy,

Nothing is Impractical.........................And don't get me wrong when I say that your lack of understanding on this subject is well quite obvious.

You can take any motor you want and add Horsepower and Torque to it but first ask yourself ........."What am I going to do with this Engine" You also mentioned that your budget is Limited and remember ...........
Power does costs money!

Point is if you have just a daily driver and part time off road vehicle a stock V8 will do you just fine. If you need to bore it to clean up your cylinder walls then by all means do it. Decking is for compression which brings on a whole new mind set in the build.

If you need more torque off road look at your gear ratios.
Don't get caught up in all the aftermarket Horsepower junk that you read about or what Summit or Jeg's sells. Your not building a race car.

Put the think back together and run it and enjoy it...........later if you want to hop it up after your bank account grows and you have more experience then have at it.
Get with a friend or an honest engine builder in town and have a talk with him about your needs.
:D:D:D:D
 
Great advice thanks! Really!
 
I have always wanted a cj that I could hop in and trust. No weird stuff. Interior wise I got it all with the wiring harness and fixing lights etc... All controls work perfect. This is what I want mechanically. So. I am having the shop do the cylinders and overbore if necessary. He said hell check bearings etc. he told me for the block stuff 3-500 depending on my wants. This would ensure a fresh engine that will have me smilin. I took off the fenders today and scotchbrited the engine compartment side and wheel wells. Doing the wells in bed liner. The engine and compartment in gloss black. Any suggestions on a good paint with chemical resistance? Also, I cannot eliminate all rust, is there a good spray on inhibitor?
 
Quick clutch question. I am seeing 1 1/8 and 1 1/16 spline. I know my disc is 10.5, but I measured the tip on the spline out of the Transmission and I came up with 1 3/8. Where am I wrong?
 
Germy said:
Quick clutch question. I am seeing 1 1/8 and 1 1/16 spline. I know my disc is 10.5, but I measured the tip on the spline out of the Transmission and I came up with 1 3/8. Where am I wrong?
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:)Germy,

Should be a 1.125" 10 spline.............but you should verify that with your input shaft.
:D:D:D:D
 
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Germy said:
From the spline with the 10 teeth the rod that protrudes which enters the pilot is coming to 1 3/8. Am I measuring from the wrong spot?


So this will work once i figure out how to measure?

Centerforce Performance Clutch Product | DUAL FRICTION CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE AND DISC 55-85: JEEP - SUVS & TRUCKS (PN# DF193675)

Is it diameter of spline?
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:)Count the teeth and measure the OD of the spline diameter..........The part you are referring to is the pilot area of the input shaft. The diameter & length of the surface area is important to get the correct pilot bushing.

If you remember I mentioned previously that you need to understand & verify what components you have..............IE :bell housing,motor combination & Transmission ..........if those parts are part of a normal factory Jeep option then order parts based on that model year with your components.

If not then you need to measure everything and get with a good parts guy.

The Pilot dimension depth is critical since that does go into the rear of the crankshaft...................One could assume that since it was working that it is correct??? But don't assume that!

Since you have no history on these parts and have had a considerable amount of trouble.............I again would want to verify all my components to make sure my new parts were correct.

On the clutch I believe the one you should look at is the "Centerforce II" & not the dual friction.
:D:D:D:D
 
Thanks terry! 1 1/8, ten tooth, 10.5 disc and need to measure pilot bearing. I may need to get a caliper to measure. Machine shop called and all the parts are done. Still finishing cleaning up the engine compartment
 
Picked up heads, intake, and timing cover, they look great!View attachment 11446View attachment 11447

I decided to also have him do the short block. He is going to go through it to see where it's at, then call. It will be decked and .03 over.
 
What cam are you going to run in this motor? How much are you taking off the deck of the block? Have you talk to your mechanist about your setup? Do you know how to check clearances between valves/pistons?
 
Sorry for all these questions. Just would hate to see you put this motor together and wipe out the valves/everything else
 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL10-202-4/

Here is summits maximum reco for light off road mostly street. I'm letting the machinists do the suggesting. Nothing extreme is being done. He knows that stock valve train is being used as did the tech at summit. The cam is not a definite, but a start.
 
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Does the aboved mentioned cam look proper to everyone? I definitely want a choppy idle, I know the drawbacks and am willing to make small sacrifices. I will probably use this 2-3 times a year on trails. The rest is cruising, campin and stuff. Ever since I was little I wanted that cam sound! What would a safe bet be on a .03 over stock valvetrain? What would a "go no higher than" cam be.
 
Any input appreciated about cam. Do you have a cam your 360 that you love?
 
Germy said:
Any input appreciated about cam. Do you have a cam your 360 that you love?
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I am finishing up the rebuild on my 360.
Did a lot of reading from a lot of AMC guys here and on other forums. For low end I noticed a lot of people using and recommending the Melling MTA-1 cam.

It has low duration and lift and should produce good torque and HP in the lower RPM range. I've gone the route of higher lift and duration to give me a nice lope, but sacrificed in getting good torque in the low rpm range.

I havent fired it up yet, so I cannot speak firsthand.

brian
 
I may just stay stock, even the few off road adventures may get annoying getting into the powerband
 
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