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'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
1982 CJ 7
It has the original I6, 5 speed manual tranny and I know nothing about transfer case and diffs..
If someone is reading this please send me a message about how to figure out these things and I will get it straight
OP what are the steps in doing the front oil seal replacement.
I have a bad leak there also but can't seem to find clear instructions on the change out and don't want to damage or get too deep into it.
Only instructions I've seen so far include using a pipe wrench on the yoke with a breaker bar and socket on the nut. Then using a puller on the yoke.
Is all that necessary or what did you do?
OP what are the steps in doing the front oil seal replacement.
I have a bad leak there also but can't seem to find clear instructions on the change out and don't want to damage or get too deep into it.
Only instructions I've seen so far include using a pipe wrench on the yoke with a breaker bar and socket on the nut. Then using a puller on the yoke.
Is all that necessary or what did you do?
I’m sorry for just now responding. Not sure why I’m not getting updates.
It’s not half as difficult as I thought it was to replace and is basically the same as the rear pinion seal or any other pinion seal for that matter. At this point I should be a pro... I drained the oil. Removed the driveshaft. Put the Transfer Case in 4x4 and the Transmission in a high gear. Used a socket (1-1/8” I think) and my torque wrench to break it loose. I used my torque wrench instead of a breaker bar so I could see what I should torque it on with. I found 100lbs broke it loose. Some might disagree but that’s what worked for me.
A puller would be an excellent option to remove the yoke if you have one. I don’t and I didn’t want to drive 40 min round trip to get one. So I used a 6lbs hammer and lightly tapping it while rotating the yoke in Neutral.
To remove the old seal I ran 2 sheet metal screws opposite of each other and used a pry bar to get it out. This shouldn’t take much effort.
Then I cleaned the surface and installed the new seal about 5 days later. I bought the wrong seal from Autozone so I ordered 2 “Dana 300 ” seals from Quadratec along with a new pinion nut and washer and $30 of other parts I didn’t need right now to get free shipping.
Someone suggested using a piece of 2” PVC pipe cut to length (4-6”) to tap the new seal in. Soo I did just that and it worked flawlessly.
Greased the pinion shaft, tapped the yoke on and torqued the new but down to 100ish lbs and so far so good!!
My quest to stop the leaks on “ol’ Leaky” as my wife calls it is complete at this time! I hope this helps and I’m not too late.
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---