Engine not starting

[BusaDave9]

It's a ballast resistor.
You may have to replace the wires. The ballast resistor is a power resistor and should not be covered up with tape. It should be between the ignition module and the positive end of the coil. Not all ignition systems have a balast resistor. It depends on the coil. If you get an aftermarket coil they may tell you to remove the ballast resistor. They limit the current to the coil. Some people remove the ballast resistor thinking that will produce a better spark. And it may work for a couple of months until the coil goes out. That's what the label is all about. If you keep the OEM coil don't bypass the resistor.

 

[thistle3585]

Okay, today was replace the coil with a universal internal resistor coil and replace the broken wire with new. I now have 12 volts at coil and at solenoid. It now starts and runs for a few seconds and dies. It does better when I pump the pedal but still can't stay running. I did replace the spark plugs. They were all very black with the ones closer to the fire wall having quite a bit of build up on them. A friend of mine happened by and he said he thinks its getting flooded or is running too rich.

I was thinking I'd go ahead and replace the spark plug wires, the distributor cap and rotor. I think that would then eliminate the ignition, distributor and plugs. I'm sure by the time I figure this out I will have rebuilt the entire engine, which isn't a big deal but this just wasn't on the schedule until later in the summer.

 

[BusaDave9]

I wouldn't replace anything more without verifying we are on the right track. You may have had a couple things wrong. I agree it now sounds like carburation. Make sure by using a spark tester.

 

[grozam]

I still say fuel pump could be bad. When was the last time it was replaced? You might want to check your oil for gas smell. They can dump gas in the crankcase when they go bad and wipe out your bearings and should be replaced on a regular basis. I always replace them with an electric pump so that can't happen.

 

[thistle3585]

It could be the fuel pump, but I did recently replace the rear main seal and didn't smell any fuel in the oil pan. I do feel as though it has been running rich. I'm wondering if its the power valve on the MC2100.

I was planning on going through the "top end" of the engine this summer. I was hoping to finish up the drive train issues but I guess I got derailed. I was going to replace the plug wires, distributor cap and other items anyhow so I guess I'll go ahead and do it now. I am running to the auto store to get an ingition spark plug tester as BusaDave suggested, so I'm going to have them check my ignition module while I'm there. Luckily, I just happen to sell all the components that go in to making a fuel pressure gauge, so I'm going to make one to test the pump. I didn't think it was the fuel pump because I can't keep it running by pouring gas or starter fluid in the carb.

 

[grozam]

It could be the fuel pump, but I did recently replace the rear main seal and didn't smell any fuel in the oil pan. I do feel as though it has been running rich. I'm wondering if its the power valve on the MC2100.

I was planning on going through the "top end" of the engine this summer. I was hoping to finish up the drive train issues but I guess I got derailed. I was going to replace the plug wires, distributor cap and other items anyhow so I guess I'll go ahead and do it now. I am running to the auto store to get an ingition spark plug tester as BusaDave suggested, so I'm going to have them check my ignition module while I'm there. Luckily, I just happen to sell all the components that go in to making a fuel pressure gauge, so I'm going to make one to test the pump. I didn't think it was the fuel pump because I can't keep it running by pouring gas or starter fluid in the carb.

If it is running rich, it would be smoking out the exhaust. you would smell the unburned raw gas smell at the exhaust as well. You said the rear main seal failed and that could have been cause by the fuel pump thinning the oil with gas. It's cheap insurance to replace the fuel pump when anything like that happens. They don't cost that much and it might just fix it and be one less thing you have to worry about going forward. If you do decide to replace the fuel pump and that fixes it, you should change the oil and filter incase the old one put gas in the crankcase.

 

[thistle3585]

I did the spark plug test today. I got through half the cylinders before the cheapo tester broke. There was one plug that was questionable. Cylinder 7, but I was testing it after the tester broke. The clip came off. I did put a fuel pump pressure gauge on and it reached 4.5 pounds during cranking. I went ahead and replaced the distributor cap and rotor. They did not have any plug wires in stock. I'm pretty swamped and traveling some this next week, so I wont be able to get back on it until next weekend. I'll replace the plug wires then start looking at the carb. I'm thinking power valve or clogged jet based on other searches.

 

[thistle3585]

Well, back from a trip to DC with the family and back on to the project. I put a fuel pressure gauge on it at it registers between 4.5 and 5 while cranking, but doesn't hold the pressure for long in the line. Should it? I replaced the plug wires, so just about everything is new electronically except the ignition module. So, I tore off the carb and decided to clean it out. I did notice the jets had a fair amount of sediment in them. I also noticed they were marked 44. Is that the correct size? I thought I had read somewhere that a 46 was standard. I am planning on going through the entire carb and see where I stand after that.

 

[thistle3585]

Carburetor cleaned out and no success. Went to the mechanic next door and he loaned me his compression gauge. Cylinder 1 and 3 registered 60. I am going to have him double check it to make sure that I did it right. I didn't bother going through the other cylinders. I'm not sure where to go from here and will have the mechanic take a look at it and let me know what he thinks.

 

[brotherjohn]

Just dealt with this same spark flying no start two days ago. After checking everything under the sun, turned out to be bad ground cable from battery to block. Cable looked totally fine , I just so happened new one in shop and slapped it on. Viola, fired right up. For giggles I put old back on and same no start sparks flying ....just an idea

That's what I thought too, sometimes a rough idle will shake connections loose. If the sparks are big enough to see, it means they're coming from a big wire which would be battery/starter/alt.
If you had to run it with the choke partially closed means you weren't getting enough fuel so you probably have more than just one issue. Sometimes from sitting the gas in a float bowl will dry out and gum up so when you run it, it clogs jets and float needles.
When a carbed vehicle dies from fuel problems its usually prolonged with spits and sputters like a gut shot where as an electrical malfunction will shut it down quick like a cerebral cortex separation.

 

[Smalls]

I know it's been two weeks but I had a similar problem, check the distributor.

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/backfiring-no-start-newbie-needs-help-18051/

 

[thistle3585]

Yeah, I think that is what it is. My neighbor is a mechanic and he looked at it and said the stator in the distributor is shot. We ordered a new one and hope to have it in tomorrow. He also thought the fuel pressure was on the low side at 4.5-5 psi and suggested changing the pump down the road. He said he felt like there needed to be more fuel in the filter and he liked to see pumps closer to 6 psi. I'll know tomorrow.

 

[Torxhead]

The pick up coil in the distributor can be checked with an ohmeter, It should get 400-600 ohms by checking the orange and purple wires from the distributor. A mechanical fuel pump is only going to put out around 4-5 p.s.i. Hope changing the pick up coil does it.

 

[Smalls]

My pick up coil tested good when I had the issue. I just spent the $60 on a new distributor so I was completely put of options.

 

[thistle3585]

Picked it up at the mechanics and drove it 100 yards before it died again. They put a new distributor in along with a new fuel pump. They said that it idled for about half an hour before I picked it up but said they did not drive it. They did put a filter in before the pump, which already has some sediment in it, so I'm wondering if its not getting fuel from the tank. By the time I walked back to the shop, they had already left. Just getting frustrated.

 

[Torxhead]

You should be able to remove the inlet hose to the fuel pump and create a siphon effect with an air pump of some sort. This will allow fuel to flow out freely on its own, if it doesn't there has to be a problem with the gas tank venting system or a clogged fuel pick up. If you remove the gas cap and hear the air rush in that would indicate a venting problem. You mentioned the sediment and that has to be the stuff that got past the pick up sock, providing you still have one. That guess if for running out of gas only, There could be a carb issue or a electrical problem, it is a shame to keep putting in new parts that you don't need.

 

[thistle3585]

If the fuel supply was an issue then wouldn't it at least start with fuel or starting fluid in the carburetor?

 

[mtnwhlr]

If the fuel supply was an issue then wouldn't it at least start with fuel or starting fluid in the carburetor?

Yes you are right. If you still have the stock Coil with the plastic peice that hold the wires this could be you problem it was with mine.

 

[thistle3585]

Yes you are right. If you still have the stock Coil with the plastic peice that hold the wires this could be you problem it was with mine.

It has a brand new coil.

 

[mtnwhlr]

It has a brand new coil.

How are the wires held on to it?