Jeep is frozen, Help!!

Jeep is frozen, Help!!
To test the Diffs, both wheels up per axle. Turn disconnected drive-shaft by hand. may need to start motion with a pair of channel locks lightly on smaller tube. clockwise as seen from front of vehicle is forward.

The gearing will make this difficult to start going. Lock front hubs for front axle testing.

If it doesn't want to rotate at all, pull the cover off, it could be a big deal or not, as what you find.

^^^X2
 
WoW, I have been watching this for days waiting for the answer.....
How about this ,is there any chance your brakes are not released? , not mechanically but maybe fluid wise? Check valve? Are these power brakes? I know you say you can jack it up and it will move with the engine running.
Try taking a hammer and tap on the drums, if they ring they are not locked up if they sound solid or dull they have a shoe in contact..............
Just a thought.
 
WoW, I have been watching this for days waiting for the answer.....
How about this ,is there any chance your brakes are not released? , not mechanically but maybe fluid wise? Check valve? Are these power brakes? I know you say you can jack it up and it will move with the engine running.
Try taking a hammer and tap on the drums, if they ring they are not locked up if they sound solid or dull they have a shoe in contact..............
Just a thought.

Not power brakes, think I am going to completely remove the brake shoes and see if the jeep rolls in neutral, front first and then rear. won't be able to get to jeep for a few days.
 
Was wondering if the mc was compressing your brake fluid when the jeep was on the ground. Might want to crack the brake lines also.
 
Was wondering if the mc was compressing your brake fluid when the jeep was on the ground. Might want to crack the brake lines also.
Yes, think I am going to put all new cylinders on and bleed the brakes
 
Good idea
 
Yes, think I am going to put all new cylinders on and bleed the brakes

Good idea
Don't bleed the breaks, just open the break lines... Don't give it much gas (just enough to move) and block the wheels because you will have NO WAY to stop! NO WAY TO STOP!
 
You wrote "disengaged" Sarfu. Is this removal or disconnection of the driveshafts?

Disengaged sounds like "not activating" or "shifting into a neutral position".

If the shafts were disconnected, and it still wouldn't budge, it's certainly is a diff.

Remove a cover, my guess is the locked one is the culprit.


thats what I've been driving at for a while, when asking to turn the wheels at the same time...

I still think its in the diffs or the MC compressing fluid...
As stated above, instead of replacing wheel cylinders, just crack the bleeders and see if it moves then.
 
It is possible that the fluid that moved back into the mastercylinder might have caused the piston in the mastercylinder to stick.
 
Anything is possible...........you just have to check everything down stream, I think as CJ stated crack the wheel cylinders on level ground and see what happens? Might be the check valve at the MC that is hanging up do to dirt/rust/ moisture in the system, If so may have to change your fluid and start over.
 
Never heard of brakes hanging up when lowered before. Anything can and does happen to CJ owners.

Did you pull the plunger out on the proportioner when bleeding? Is it back in position?
 
I'd check the proportioner valve. This happened to me before on a 69 vette I rebuild. . I had to bleed the brakes Several times before the valve finally centered.
 
Never heard of brakes hanging up when lowered before. Anything can and does happen to CJ owners.

Did you pull the plunger out on the proportioner when bleeding? Is it back in position?
Don't have a proportioner valve on my jeep, manufactured Oct 1973 so I believe it did not come with one, can't find it if it did.

I cracked the bleeders on all 4 wheels and only got fluid out of the driver front. fluid in the mc. jeep still stuck.
 
OK found proportioner valve, will give it a try when I bleed brakes, valve first or cylinders?
 
Stop!

Did you try to drive the Jeep with the bleaders cracked (loose - you should have NO brakes) (the wheels blocked a few feet in front and in back for safety)? If it did not move then the another bleed won't do :dung:.
 
Ok, were still thinking about your problem...........did you try while your on level ground wheels blocked and no brakes on hitting the brake drums lightly with a hammer? If they ring then they should be free to turn, If there is a dull or solid report then there is something in contact w/ the drum like a brake shoe. I would try that before you take everything off..............Good Luck.
 
Do what CJ asked............. but do not apply the brakes while the bleeders are open, you will get air into the system.
 
He said he backed the shoes out many posts ago - way to much advice in here without reading the complete thread.

OP - look for a PM.
 
He said he's not getting fluid out of the backs :confused:
 
Need an update... this was definitely a bizarre situation....

Honestly, about half way through the thread, I looked to see if its original posting date was april fools day...

Sarfu, any luck yet???
 

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