Oil Leak

[JanMast]

So i have been noticing some oil leakage underneath the jeep lately. (85 CJ7 Inline 6)

When i took it to the dealer for an oil change they said that its leaking at the joint where the engine meets the tranny. I was paging through the Haynes manual and i cant find any gasket/seal on a diagram in the manual.

Any help in identifying this gasket/seal would be greatly appreciated. I am also wondering if this is something that i would be able to change myself.

Thanks in advance!

 

[jeremy5780]

I would say since you don't even change your own oil, you should just stay away from changing gaskets !

 

[JanMast]

I have changed my oil before, just didnt have the time this weekend.

 

[IOPort51]

The "Gasket " they refer to is , more than likely , the rear main bearing seal. To be honest, mine drips a little and I have come to live with it. At least until the motor is out and on an engine stand.

 

[JanMast]

So its probably not worth changing, and i should probably just deal with the leakage?

 

[IOPort51]

Keep a close eye on the oil level and the gear oil in the Transmission .

Jeeps don't leak, they mark their territory.

 

[Posi]

So i have been noticing some oil leakage underneath the jeep lately. (85 CJ7 Inline 6)

When i took it to the dealer for an oil change they said that its leaking at the joint where the engine meets the tranny. I was paging through the Haynes manual and i cant find any gasket/seal on a diagram in the manual.

Any help in identifying this gasket/seal would be greatly appreciated. I am also wondering if this is something that i would be able to change myself.

Thanks in advance!

If you can follow directions, have a torque wrench, floor jack, jack stands, and some basic tools I would suggest you do the job yourself.

There was a recent thread where a shop was asking $300-$350 to do a remain seal and oil change, use the money that you would otherwise give to the shop and buy the tools if you don't already have them, if you shop smart you can find the above mentioned tools in the same price range.

Put your first new tool to work by checking the pan bolts for proper torque specs, give it a day and check if the leak stops. If it doesn't buy the proper gaskets and seals at your FLAPS.

The gaskets and seals are not expensive so if the rear main seal doesn't go as plan the first time it won't be a big expense on a do over. I would suggest buying two rear main seal kits so you have one on hand, keep your receipt.

Pics of the gaskets, seals, and procedures should be in the engine overhaul section of your manual. A Haynes/Chilton manuals will do but if you have a chance to purchase a FSM on debay for short money grab it as it's more detailed.

Do your research, there is enough info on how to do this job on this site and others keep reading until you become comfortable with the procedures. Give yourself more then enough time to do the job park the Jeep in a spot where it won't be in the way, A good rule of thumb, however long you think the job will take plan for twice as long.

This is where it all starts a process of gathering tools and experience.

Hope this helps

 

[Dolf]

Those engines have a plastic valve cover and are notoriously known for leaking. You might want to check around the back part of the engine for a leak back there. It might be seeping out of the valve cover down towards the rear main seal and making it look like it’s that seal.

 

[Dan77CJ7]

I leak a few drops a week with long drives in hot temps. its on my to do list. i'll give ol' Gomer a bell housing wipe up after every tank of gas, untell i notice more leakage.

 

[hole]

I'm with Dolf on this one. Check the rear of the valve cover gasket for leakage. It took a mirror and good flashlight to see mine, but it indeed was the valve cover and not the main. Much easier job too