Electrical Reverse Light Switch Question

[MJkid67]

This is my second post as I am working through some minor issues on the new to me 1985 CJ7 .

I'm having trouble with getting the reverse lights working. I removed the reverse light switch from the driver's side of the T-5 Transmission and it did not pass the continuity test when I pressed the ball side of the switch in. So, I purchased a new one from Crown, tested it for continuity before I installed it, and after it was installed (about 2 weeks ago) and it had continuity.

So I had some time this past weekend and still couldn't get the reverse lights working. I backtracked and tested the new switch with the transmission in reverse and now I don't have continuity (between the two posts). I tried loosening it a little and then tightening it a bit more than it was with no luck. I then took it out and it tests fine outside of the truck.

I'm stumped! Any ideas or tricks?

Thanks

 

[Sawjaws]

Fingers crossed man. If the ebay switch doesn't work, you'll likely have to check the shift rail. Apparently there is supposed to be a pin that the switch hits on the end of the rail. If that is worn or missing, you can fab something perhaps. Also, there is switch that is rumored to have a longer profile Here that will fit as well, although it does not say what style contacts it has no or nc, but it is referenced as fitting your ride.

Hope this helps.

 

[MJkid67]

Thanks.

I'll try that switch if the next two fail.

 

[MJkid67]

The NOS switch and the Ford/Volvo switch arrived yesterday.

The NOS one is slightly shorter, so it won't work.

I tested the Ford/Volvo one for continuity with the ball in both the in and out positions and my meter didn't "beep".

Nothing is easy.

 

[CJ]

How many prongs are on the switch? If there are two did you check continuity from each prong to the switch body?

 

[Sawjaws]

What the meter is reading is more important than if it beeps I think. As long as it's high resistance in the normal state (M ohms or higher) and low resistance when pressed (1 ohms or less), you should be fine.

 

[MJkid67]

Just checked the Ford/Volvo switch with meter set to Ohms.

No ohms (OL reading) with the ball switch in its normal state.

80 ohms with the ball switch pushed in.

So, does that mean it's worth it to try this switch? Will a difference in ohms (resistance) allow the current to flow to the reverse lights?

 

[Sawjaws]

80 ohms is pretty high. I recommend trying resistance from each post to the body of the switch like CJ mentioned. How this switch works may be different than what you need.

It could be that switch is some kind of 3 way where the body is ground, one terminal is the "switch" and the other is some kind of "signal" circuit.

What is the mfg part number and/or oem equivalent part number of that switch?

 

[MJkid67]

Here is the eBay link to the part that I bought:

New Reverse Light Switch for Ford Fiest Focus Fusion Volvo S40 C30 V50 | eBay

Volvo V50 2005-2008. Volvo C30 2007-2008. Volvo S40 1999-2008. Ford Fusion 2006-2008. Ford Focus 2000-2008. Ford Escort 1990-2003. Ford Fiesta 1998-2008. Ford Ka 2001-2008.

www.ebay.com

 

[Sawjaws]

Okay, so this switch should work like the other ones. Either normally open (OL) or switched closed (less than 1 ohm). The 80 ohms is either the switch is bad out of the box, or the contacts are worn or it was not pressed in far enough.

 

[Belizean]

Hearing more things bad about buying electrical parts off of there . One myself.

 

[MJkid67]

Great, I'll try this and get back to the forum.