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What did you do to or with your CJ today?

What did you do to or with your CJ today?
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Thanks for the heads up CM. Is this the same setup you have? How much did you cut out? I'm thinking only about .25"-50" will do it.


Wooly

No, I still have the original one on mine. I just tried to lengthen the rod to bring the pedal up some so it was more comfortable for me. I plan to do something this winter to make the brakes better but I'm not sure just what I'll do yet. I think I like the setup that you're putting in. Would it make any sense to space the booster out away from the firewall a little?
 
The braking power vs the YJ booster I had is about 10000%. Before, it was maybe 6" off the floor and I could put it to the floor and still not lock em up. With the new setup, the pedal is about 8" above the floor which is too high for transitioning from the gas to brake. In the kit I got there are two rods, one adjustable from the brake to the mounting bracket assembly and another from there to the booster. It's a lever system which amplifies the brake pedal movement I assume. With all the adjustment out, the pedal is 2" too high (since the jeep originally had manual brakes). To drop my brake 2" I figured that I needed the rod from the pedal to be about .5" shorter. I was able to take out about .35 by removing the lock nut and cutting about .35" off the threads of that side of the rod. I figured the lock nut wasn't needed since the rod can't twist since it is attached with pins at each end; the way I cut it the rod threads bottom out and tighten as well. This adjustment put the pedal about where it should be but it could still be a little lower. I could add a spacer plate between the mounting bracket and the firewall to take up the rest.

I'm very pleased with it. Pedal is about 3" to lock up. I got it on eBay from rodpartsdealer for about $200 shipped. I would buy it again.


Wooly
 
Wooly - Your braking system needs a few things to operate correctly. Mostly the rod needs to be able to extend fully to open the relief valve in the maser cylinder to fully release the back pressure in the brake system. I've seen people (motorcycle) adjust the pedal height with a pedal stop just to have the brakes lock up from the brake fluid heating up from not being relieved ... the piston didn't go back far enough.

Your brake pedal problem is similar to mine. The darned thing is simply to high. you can work out a way to block the pedal stop for an adjustment or you can straighten the pedal arm to lower the pedal. I believe I'm going to straighten the pedal arm some.
 
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HH - that may have been what was going on with the YJ setup, I'd occasionally get dragging brakes in the summer and I'd adjust the rod inside the booster to compensate round and round. With the current setup I'm still 3-4" clear of the floor so if I can drop the pedal another 1", I should still get a full push as you describe.

Thanks for the help - I'll keep you posted.


Wooly
 
Re: What did you do to or with your CJ today?g

I like it! Looks like a fun wheeling day as well.
 
Excellent find!
Side note: unlike a CJ Dana 20 the FSJ Dana 20 does NOT have bills installed from the factory. You will have independent front and rear drive, be mindful not to shift one axle in hi and the other in low.
That power take off is worth what you paid for the lot.
 
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Nice find. You got one hell of a deal.
 
Bought a recently rebuilt T-176 on ebay. It was in Fedex Ground limbo for 9 Days only to find out it was damaged in transit, and is being returned to shipper. :bang:
 
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Pretty much wrapped the mechanical portion of installing the new disk front axle. Now for the brake master cylinder. Even though I've got a "Whole She Bang" power brake master cylinder system I don't believe I'm going to use it. The thing is just too big. My 1980 CJ had standard brakes and I never had a lick of trouble with the system. The CJ will have the proper master cylinder and proportioning valve set-up.
 
Looks really sharp! :chug:
LG
 

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