Are these used axles beyond recovery?

[Old Dog]

Here it is ..http://www.grimmjeeper.com/new_gears.html

 

[Flex BT]

I was looking for it... it's offline right now. Can I ask what are you trying to get me to see with using a T-18 and Dana 20 instead of the T-5 , Dana 300 I have in the jeep now? Did you see I have 2.73 gears now and am looking to upgrade to at least a 3.72, or are you trying to say you think my current gear ratio is not bad?

 

[tarry99]

Seems like I've gone over this a dozen times. I know a lot of Jeepers don't seem to understand what I'm trying to do. I'd like to get a little better mileage, I'm not expecting miracles and it's not necessarily about money, it's about getting in and out without worrying about running out of fuel.

Where I go to hunt is frequently well over 100 miles away on the interstate. Right now the CJ is getting ~10.5 mpg, if I could get closer to 15 I'd be satisfied. Here in Arizona it's not really about power, the 360 has plenty of that, we don't have big mud or deep snow and I am not the slightest bit interested in rock crawling.

The 3.31s will drop the RPM at 65 from ~2850 to ~2560 or ~300 rpm's this might not seem like a lot but a 10% drop is something to consider.

Not trying to hijack the thread but there is no replacement for just the old fact of carrying extra fuel............IE: like 5 gallon cans. Irregardless of the fuel mileage increase for a gear change that is only effective over a given speed for long periods of time..........not while off road in lower gears. Save your money re-gearing and either put a larger tank in....carry some Jeep cans or get a more efficient ECM controlled fuel injected motor.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

2:73 are the WORST!
Your kill'n your tranny with the torque load you put'n it through.
LG

 

[Flex BT]

Well that's why I started the thread in the first place!

 

[Hedgehog]

I'm saying that there is hope in used equipement, especially if it's getting you where you want to be. Sure you'd be wise to do more or less routine maintenance like bearing services and brake pad's/shoes. Personaly I don't mind doing that sort of thing. I also enjoy a challenge, since I've never done a ring and pinion the challenge apeals to me at some base level. I'm happy with my choices here, I think you could also be happy. ..... Grits will likely never agree with me on this, but I'm happy and I think you could be too. You never answered, does the Dana 30 have disk brakes?

 

[Flex BT]

The Dana 30 I have on there now has them, the Dana 30 with the 3.73 gears does not. Seems like an extra couple hours work to me unless I'm missing something (but I haven't really looked into it).

I just found another guy selling a Dana 44 and Dana 60 from a CJ but he doesn't know anything about them. I'm assuming they're probably going to be wide trac, right? He's going to pop the covers so I can get a gear ratio tomorrow. It's raining like heck in VA right now.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

No Dana 60 was ever OEM on a CJ.
The 44 rear used in the last couple of years the '7' was made, was an old-ball 44 that you should read up on.
No 44 was ever OEM on the front.
LG

 

[IOPort51]

I was looking for it... it's offline right now. Can I ask what are you trying to get me to see with using a T-18 and Dana 20 instead of the T-5 , Dana 300 I have in the jeep now? Did you see I have 2.73 gears now and am looking to upgrade to at least a 3.72, or are you trying to say you think my current gear ratio is not bad?

Ok so it is a given that the T-18 Dana 20 combo is a very accepted drive train.

your current crawl ratio, as is, is 28.7:1. that is 1st gear low lock.

the T-18 is 30.4:1 . 1.3:1 difference. 30 to 1 is not bad. can yours be better? yes. if you change to 3.73:1 the crawl drops to 39:1. You are about to part company with a lot of Yankee dollars, is 9:1 final drive reduction worth it?? I am saying you are not in as bad a shape as you seem to think.

LG is right, the 2.73 is killing your T-5 but in truth, it isn't much of a Transmission to begin with. An over drive Transmission on a jeep is kind of out of place to begin with.

If I could gear a drive train any way I wanted it I would start with 3.54s in the axles , because with a 1:1 final gear @2500 rpm the cruse speed is right at 70. I use 2500 because the power curve on the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l peeks pretty close to that. best efficiency @ highway speed. I would also unload the T-5 for almost anything cast iron.

I thought the chart would help you make your decisions based on all the numbers. It is all about the gears. nothing is ever as easy as it first looks.

good luck

 

[Flex BT]

That is an interesting perspective. I was told after changing everything from the flywheel back to the Transfer Case that the shaking I was getting going into first was due to the 2.72s. With what you have listed up there, is this likely not the case? I figured this is also why my jeep seems really underpowered for a 6 cylinder, even with the 33" tires.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

An OD on a CJ is a smart thing and at one time(before the 5 speed)was a factory option.
T-5 is not the best. But I have been run'n one for 29 years. Rebuilt once at 80K miles due mostly to front seal leak'n.
Run'n 4:88s w/T-5 and 33" tires I can run 65mph at 2700-2800 rpm all day.
Don't even use 1st gear on the street.
The T-5 will do if your not stupid with the skinny pedal.
LG

 

[IOPort51]

That is an interesting perspective. I was told after changing everything from the flywheel back to the Transfer Case that the shaking I was getting going into first was due to the 2.72s. With what you have listed up there, is this likely not the case? I figured this is also why my jeep seems really underpowered for a 6 cylinder, even with the 33" tires.

lets talk about the engine. carter 2 bbl and standard ignition??

 

[IOPort51]

An OD on a CJ is a smart thing and at one time(before the 5 speed)was a factory option.
T-5 is not the best. But I have been run'n one for 29 years. Rebuilt once at 80K miles due mostly to front seal leak'n.
Run'n 4:88s w/T-5 and 33" tires I can run 65mph at 2700-2800 rpm all day.
Don't even use 1st gear on the street.
The T-5 will do if your not stupid with the skinny pedal.
LG

if you like the OD you should be crazy about the 2.73s

 

[Flex BT]

It's a Weber 38/38 2bbl and I did the teamrush upgrade.

 

[IOPort51]

It's a Weber 38/38 2bbl and I did the teamrush upgrade.

Outstanding!! It would be way cool if that information , and everything else about your CJ, showed up in your profile. just to help with future conversations.

The best return on investment I got was the ignition upgrade but I don't think I would be happy running 33s with out the 4.0 head.

I am not trying to change your plan , just like to see if you can get a bit more bang for your buck going another way.

Have you done the math on what the make over of the two axles you have would cost?? R&P, carrier maybe, one piece axles. etc. etc.

It is always a good thing to think of terms of a build plan because one thing always seems to lead to another.

Can I have an "Amen" brothers??

 

[mtnwhlr]

Can I have an "Amen" brothers??

 

[Flex BT]

That's funny, I tried updating that info yesterday and got some kind of error and said "meh, I'll do it later".

I've actually got a lead on the correct casting 4.0 head for a great price, but I wanted to get my axle situation straightened out first. My thought though, is that more power is going to help with the engine feeling sluggish, but won't do anything about the shaking when shifting into first, would it? My thinking was that changing the gears (or axles) would take care of both.

I went to quadratec earlier today and priced out TEN Factory parts (they were the first to pop up, I have no idea on quality level) It was $804 for new carriers, 4.10 R&P, and overhaul kits for both front and back for my current set-up.

edit: Added some info to my profile

 

[IOPort51]

That's funny, I tried updating that info yesterday and got some kind of error and said "meh, I'll do it later".

I've actually got a lead on the correct casting 4.0 head for a great price, but I wanted to get my axle situation straightened out first. My thought though, is that more power is going to help with the engine feeling sluggish, but won't do anything about the shaking when shifting into first, would it? My thinking was that changing the gears (or axles) would take care of both.

I went to quadratec earlier today and priced out TEN Factory parts (they were the first to pop up, I have no idea on quality level) It was $804 for new carriers, 4.10 R&P, and overhaul kits for both front and back for my current set-up.

first point , check with Randys R&P. second , tell us about the "shaking when shifting into first" this is a new one for me.:dunno:

 

[Lumpy Grits]

if you like the OD you should be crazy about the 2.73s

33's and 2:73 you can't even use OD.
LG

 

[Lumpy Grits]

That's funny, I tried updating that info yesterday and got some kind of error and said "meh, I'll do it later".

I've actually got a lead on the correct casting 4.0 head for a great price, but I wanted to get my axle situation straightened out first. My thought though, is that more power is going to help with the engine feeling sluggish, but won't do anything about the shaking when shifting into first, would it? My thinking was that changing the gears (or axles) would take care of both.

I went to quadratec earlier today and priced out TEN Factory parts (they were the first to pop up, I have no idea on quality level) It was $804 for new carriers, 4.10 R&P, and overhaul kits for both front and back for my current set-up.

edit: Added some info to my profile

You really need to add a set of Moser 1 piece axles.
Look at 4:56 also
LG