Are these used axles beyond recovery?

[tarry99]

I'll bet the f'wheel is NOT flat.
How did you ck for flat?
Was 'flat' ck'd from the crankshaft mount area on the f'wheel, to the pressure plate side. Was the T.I.R less that .005"?
Also-was a new pilot bearing installed with the new clutch?
What type of pressure plate are you using? 3 finger, of diaphragm type---
You have a clutch/flywheel issue--
LG

Bingo

 

[Posi]

Flywheel to crankshaft 105ft lbs (6&8 cyl)

 

[Flex BT]

Like I said, the clutch gear came free with the tranny, that's why I didn't know what brand. After looking at Quadratec it looks a lot like the AMS kits. It came with a flywheel so I do have an extra one, although by now it probably has some surface rust on it. I had a hell of a time with the Transmission / clutch swap last time and I'd prefer to make this the last time I do it until I get a better tranny. What clutch / pressure plate set do you all recommend? I'm either getting a whole new flywheel or having one of the two I have resurfaced... from the above statements does it need to be balanced too or is that part of the service?

 

[Hedgehog]

No, it's already balanced. I mentioned it because yoiu have to put the flywheel on correctly and that is built into the flywheel by the placement of the bolts, i.e. they only fit in the threaded holes one way. Put the flywheel on the crank shaft and turn it until the holes line up correctly.

I'd have the extra flywheel resurfaced and have the machine shop evaluate it's fitness. More than likely the one you have is fine. Check out the starter gears teeth, they are easily abused. If they are don't let that scare you, it's easy to replace the ring gear. Simply pound the old one off, it should be a friction fit. Freeze the flywheel and heat the ring. When hot enough and cold enough they fall together. Have the flywheel surfaced at a reputable shop.

Don't let Grits get to you, I know where I got my clutch assembly, but I can't tell you who made it.

Now I must say that it seems like you were a little fast and loose in trusting the quality of your parts, how is your pilot bearing. If in doubt, replace it. Your kit will come with a pilot bearing. It's easy to replace with the right tools. I got a $15.00 puller from Harbor freight, but needed to modify it for my V8. I'm not sure about your pilot bearing, but the one on the V8 is very long, longer than normal. Everybody that gets the HF tool needs to grind off a bit of metal to allow the jaws to get behind the bearing. Once the tool gets a good bite it works well, Some folks will chime in on using a hydrolic method to pull the bearing. This method requires you to fill the bearing with grease, inserting a tight fitting rod and hitting it with a hammer. I tried it, don't do it. Grease will find a way to escape and make an absolute mess. Buy the puller. After cleaning the hole tap the new bearing in (I'm old school so I soak the bearing in oil before installing it.) until it is seated.

 

[IOPort51]

The Hydraulic thing works like a champ for me and I have never seen a puller that was worth the plastic wrapper it came in.

You will just have to judge this for yourself.

I was taught that the way to oil an oi-lite bronze bushing was to heat it dull red and drop it in oil. I must admit I have never done this but there always seems to be plenty of wheel bearing grease in my pilot bushing so it has never been a problem.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

"Don't let Grits get to you, I know where I got my clutch assembly, but I can't tell you who made it."
Ya know 'Hog'-
I have never, ever said anything against you or belittled you in anyway, shape or form.
Is it to much to ask the same of you?
We'll see
LG

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Heating the bushing like that only anneals(makes 'softer')it.
Yes to soak'n the bushing in engine oil. Along with a small 'wick' of fabric inserted behind the bushing that has oil on it.
NEVER use grease for this.

DO use grease to hydro out the bushing that's installed. Works like a champ.
LG

 

[IOPort51]

Is it a full moon?? I have never experienced as much negative energy in this forum ever!! And I speak as one who is absolutely NOT without sin. I swear I have had to work at not jumping at the chance to argue with some one.

I am almost ready to go over to Pirate and start some . Just to get it out of my system.:shooter:

Back to business, I have experienced clutch chatter with a new clutch. It seems to go away pretty quick. How much time/many miles do you have on this one?? I have to say I can buy into a clutch problem a lot easier than gear ratios for the cause of this problem.

 

[IOPort51]

with a bit of honest research I must agree, don't heat it, sintered bronze is porous enough that you can force oil through it so soaking it for a day or so saturates it. It was suggested , strongly, that grease was not a good thing to use for lubrication. It has always been SOP with everyone I have known to put a bit of wheel bearing grease on the end of the input shaft when stabbing the Transmission . As far as I know it has never caused a problem. I do not know where I got the heating idea but I guess it is just as well I never did it.

 

[Flex BT]

Humility time.

I had installed a new throwout bearing that came with the new clutch setup. I did not install a new pilot bushing when installing the new clutch. Feel free to ridicule... somewhere along the way I confused the terms. I own the Chilton manual and everything, but I didn't consult it. I took the whole shebang apart and thought I had everything I needed and it all looked pretty simple. I'm beating myself up pretty bad right now. On to the next stuff I need to know.

When I broke everything down last time, I removed the skid plate, then the xfer case, then the Transmission since it was being replaced. Is it possible to remove the xfer case and Transmission assembled? Is it possible to do without draining the fluid from each? Will any pilot bushing for my year / motor do? Redoing all this work for a damned $5 part...

My education continues. If you need me I'll be banging my head against the nearest wall.

Edit: Hostility or no, it all reads as good productive discussion to me. Thanks again for taking the time to help me out. After this thread I may have to come back with a new user name out of shame.

 

[mtnwhlr]

Don't beat yourself up over this we have all done something that we look back at and say WTF it's just part of the learning process. Yes you can pull the Transmission and Transfer Case as one and you do not need to drain them first.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Don't beat yourself up over this we have all done something that we look back at and say WTF it's just part of the learning process. Yes you can pull the trans and transfer case as one and you do not need to drain them first.

X2 what he sez-Just keep track of your fingers
I have a tranny jack that attaches to my floor jack and that makes things a good bit easier.
Are you sure there IS a pilot bearing in that flywheel?
NO p'bearing would most diffidently be a reason for the 'shakes'.
LG

 

[Flex BT]

Unfortunately, I'm not going to know until I take the thing apart.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I wouldn't drive it till you do the R&R.
IF- there is no p'bearing. You can really put allot of hurt on the tranny.
PLEASE keep us all posted-----------------------------Even Hedgehog
LG

 

[Flex BT]

It hasn't been driven in about a month unfortunately. I was waiting on funds to replace the driveshaft with a CV when I got sidetracked with this axle business... I'm excited to hopefully get this resolved but unfortunately I'm not sure when I'm going to be able to work on this next. If I can't squeeze it in on Tuesday it will probably be another whole week after that at least.

 

[Bent]

You will need to cut and re weld the spring perches to use the axle in your picture. I think the 1976 and newer CJs have a different spring location.
Cheaper to keep the 2.73 gears and swap in a T-18 ?

 

[mtnwhlr]

Cheaper to keep the 2.73 gears and swap in a t-18?

Keeping the 2.73 is just a bad idea unless you plan on running the stock size tire. And with 33s it will be a slug no matter what Transmission you have. IMO

 

[Lumpy Grits]

You will need to cut and re weld the spring perches to use the axle in your picture. I think the 1976 and newer CJs have a different spring location.
Cheaper to keep the 2.73 gears and swap in a t-18?

Those 2:73s are no friend of the jeeper.
Buy the time you buy the adapter and every thing else. You may well have spent more for the 18.
33's and 2:73 are a bad mix--
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Hostility ... no ... a little ribbing for Grits ... sure. One thing though, I'm not wrong about everything I write.

My puller works great, especially for $15.00. I'm still cleaning grease from all the nooks and crannies from my driveway, garage and the underside of my Jeep after trying the hydraulic pilot bushing/bearing removal method. I'm sure I works for people, but I have no idea how. .... Yes I do understand the physics involved in hydraulics.

I believe in good used parts. I believe in saving money. I don't believe that spending more money is ALWAYS the answer. I also believe in encouraging this and many other OP's in doing something that make sense to me.

 

[Bent]

Those 2:73s are no friend of the jeeper.
Buy the time you buy the adapter and every thing else. You may well have spent more for the 18.
33's and 2:73 are a bad mix--
LG

I was thinking higher gears are stronger because of the larger pinion gear. Also thinking a T-18 adapter would be less than 2xnew carrier + 2xnew gears. The granny low would overcome the high axle gearing. The drive shaft length would be pretty close. I've thought about this combination so I could use a TORSEN differential out of a HMMWV (M998) AMC20 . That differential mostly came in 2.56 so they would accept the 2.73.

On a separate note: most CJs with the T-5 ran 3.31 or 3.54 gears? Was this factory? I apologize if this was covered in the previous 98 replies.