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Bulkhead connector help!!

Bulkhead connector help!!

Dan86CJ7

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1986 cj7 258(rebuilt motor/comp cam/weber32/36) T5 300 tcase d30 front(locker/4:10s)
AMC20(locker/4:10s),4"lift,33"s
so my no start/ no power problem has come back. i tried a starter switch and an ignition switch w/ no luck. so i started looking around w/my test light to find no power at my fuse block and then tripped over some corrosion in the bulkhead, so does anyone have a link or info for terminal repair and diagrams? any help would be great
 
Can you be more specific on what you want to repair? Just in general I like to solder all connections and apply heat shrink over them. Rod
 
replacement terminals for the bulkhead connector
i wanna repin the bulkhead connector
 
Be careful with this task. Don't make a mountain out of a mole hill. If you try to replace the whole bulkhead connector you may fix the original problem only to have 6 more issues pop up.
Get a good wiring diagram such as the one from Prospero's Garage (PROSPERO'S GARAGE Presents:* 11" x 17", Laminated, Full Original Color Wiring Diagrams for Motorcycles & Vintage Sports Cars!) Then I would replace only the wires necessary. Route the new wires through the firewall directly. There is no need for a connector at the firewall.
Take voltage readings to find out what wires and connections are bad. Keep in mind some voltages originate in the engine compartment (such as battery 12 volts) and some start in the passenger compartment (such as accessories 12 volts). If the voltage isn't carried through the firewall replace that wire.

If your voltmeter tells you the connection through the firewall is good then don't replace it. The bulkhead connector may not be your problem so don't get carried away. On the other hand make sure you eliminate the possibility of a bad connection here.
:chug:
 
got no power into the fusebox.the connector itself loks good but ta few terminals are loaded with corrosion. all i wanna do is cut off corroded terminals and replace them.got plenty of removal tools ,got 15 yrs with jeep so i have somewhat of a clue:Dso not really an issue just looking for the proper terminal ends/part#/link got a ton of corrosion build up at the bulkhead
 
got no power into the fusebox.the connector itself loks good but ta few terminals are loaded with corrosion. all i wanna do is cut off corroded terminals and replace them.got plenty of removal tools ,got 15 yrs with jeep so i have somewhat of a clue:Dso not really an issue just looking for the proper terminal ends/part#/link got a ton of corrosion build up at the bulkhead

man….. my fuzzy memory is failing me right now, one of the members on this forum was asking if anyone was interested in new bulkhead connectors and pins so he has access to the correct pins :chug: unfortunately I dont remember the member's name NAPA carries alot of the correct pins if you can get them to look up the part numbers
 
It looks like 15 or so. But I only got 5 or 6 corroded. It looks like only the engine side also the side that goes to the grill is ok. I found the napa #s
725145(male side) 725147(female side) is what was recommended in case anyone else needs them. Just gotta order em on monday.I would love to find a pigtail I could just solder in.
Also is the female side of the bulkhead part of the fuse block??
 
Busa you recommend removing the terminals? Would I run the wire straight thought the connector? Again cutting/solder/ect not an issue got much supplys
 
Busa you recommend removing the terminals? Would I run the wire straight thought the connector?
Yes remove the terminals. I'd run the wires strait through the firewall. their is a hole just above the bulkhead connector (at least on my CJ). I run wires through there. If a voltage or signal doesn't pass through the wire the problem is almost always a connection. Soldered connections are far more reliable than connectors.
 
so havent touched the jeep in a few so decided to try it today..just wanna see if anyone seen something similar..manually put the ingnition switch to start and all i got was a constant buzz type noise from the battery side of engine compartment..i happen to have my test light on the starter solenoid and found that when i turn on headlamp switch it power the other 3 terminals at the starter solenoid??? very strange. still think i have a bulkhead issue :censored:
 
so took the starter to AZ and tested it failed horribly. warrantied it out, still buzzing, found only getting 2.5-3.0 volts to the "s" terminal(blue wire) at my starter solenoid? has a new switch, battery is testing ok, also back probed the wire at the bulkhead same reading?? any ideas

checked blue wire at ignition switch and it is only putting 2 volts at start position....anyone got what the switch pins should read

and some F#@king alarm box thats all spliced into the harness:censored:
 
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seems i got 12 coming in and only 2 going out?? new switch:mad:
 
I know your not gonna like this suggestion but with all your issues your having I'd look into a new wiring harness. Ezwire makes a good 12 circuit harness for $170. Last thing you want to do is get your jeep "fixed" and have a short burn it to the ground.
Wiring Harness

I've installed several of theses with really good results.
 
$$ and time is the problem now and for 2+ years now this has been my DD. just lucky i kept my wifes old car for a back up...this did happen in the spring but stopped after i put a solenoid and ignition switch in it...i just cant seem to see where im losing my voltage. All looks ok until i get to that s terminal?

Also the 2 volts is same when back probed direcrtly at the ignition switch?
 
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Jim, first thanks for the response..12 circuit is all id need?? And how is the install?? you think id have to gut the dash?

hate to see it sitting:( may have to wait til i can afford the harness unless i can trip over the problem
 
you think painless wiring is over kill??
 
so im gonna reground the engine compartment to start and see where i get....some reason my gut keeps going back to this so...nice simple thing to try....finger crossed:)
 

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