Electrical Problem- Help!
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Electrical Problem- Help!
- Thread starter DuneRider
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- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
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- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
If the battery truly is up in charge. It should have cranked the engine with ease.
Do you have another battery you can install and try. WITHOUT using jumper cables.
How old is this current battery?
The outfit that first said the ALT was 'good'. Is that the same outfit that said the battery was good also??
LG
Do you have another battery you can install and try. WITHOUT using jumper cables.
How old is this current battery?
The outfit that first said the ALT was 'good'. Is that the same outfit that said the battery was good also??
LG
DuneRider
Jeeper
Yes sir this is the same outfit that said the battery was good. The other store was closed when i got there because its sunday. I will check it in the am and will re-post what I find. Again I would like to thank you for all of your help and suggestions. Hopefuly we can solve this crazy issue tomarrow after I have the battery checked by the other store and install the new alternator. 
- Posts
- 14,790
- Thanks
- 55
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
- Vehicle(s)
- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
I would not use that new ALT with this questionable battery.
How old is this battery?
Also-You may well want to have the starter motor ck'd out for AMP draw.
LG
How old is this battery?
Also-You may well want to have the starter motor ck'd out for AMP draw.
LG
Posi
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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If you have a good battery, and properly connected 12v from the battery to the starter, and it sparked, your starter is junk.
DuneRider
Jeeper
Sorry i did not post yesterday. I tried a couple of things and here is what I found.
I replaced the connector to the alternator. Before i did that i wrapped a lead directly from the positive battery post to the red main 10 gauge wire going to the alternator. This energized everything. The lights came on, the dash lights worked and when i switched the key to on the volt meter read 13 volts. I tried to start it . Nothing. it was dead. So i took another lead from the positive battery post and left the key in the on position and touched the solenoid ignition post and the jeep started right up. I turned the jeep off at the key switch. I tried to again start it with the key . dead. The parts store sold me a ignition module. Nothing. So here is what i have replaced or checked.
A solenoid, ignition module, ignition switch, new alternator, and checked all of the fuses, traced every wire (i mean every wire, lol, i took every wire out of the looms) for continuity snd power. All good, removed the fuse box and checked connections, cleaned the battery posts, cables, and connections, and started it with hot leads.
I was told that i need to replace the key switch next. Even though it is loose and i do not need a key to start it I thought this is just mechanical and it works the actuator rod just fine. Would you change it?
I found a black solid wire connected to the alternator plug and was told it was a resister wire. I follwed it and found it hard wired in the harness. I ohmed it out and it was fine. I even took a lead and bypassed it and it did not make a difference.
Any other suggestions? I appreciate all of your help.
I replaced the connector to the alternator. Before i did that i wrapped a lead directly from the positive battery post to the red main 10 gauge wire going to the alternator. This energized everything. The lights came on, the dash lights worked and when i switched the key to on the volt meter read 13 volts. I tried to start it . Nothing. it was dead. So i took another lead from the positive battery post and left the key in the on position and touched the solenoid ignition post and the jeep started right up. I turned the jeep off at the key switch. I tried to again start it with the key . dead. The parts store sold me a ignition module. Nothing. So here is what i have replaced or checked.
A solenoid, ignition module, ignition switch, new alternator, and checked all of the fuses, traced every wire (i mean every wire, lol, i took every wire out of the looms) for continuity snd power. All good, removed the fuse box and checked connections, cleaned the battery posts, cables, and connections, and started it with hot leads.
I was told that i need to replace the key switch next. Even though it is loose and i do not need a key to start it I thought this is just mechanical and it works the actuator rod just fine. Would you change it?
I found a black solid wire connected to the alternator plug and was told it was a resister wire. I follwed it and found it hard wired in the harness. I ohmed it out and it was fine. I even took a lead and bypassed it and it did not make a difference.
Any other suggestions? I appreciate all of your help.
- Posts
- 14,790
- Thanks
- 55
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
- Vehicle(s)
- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
The key switch is what makes the electrical contact.
You say you replaced the IGN switch-How can you do that, and not replace the 'key-switch'?
I would look into that new solenoid........
LG
You say you replaced the IGN switch-How can you do that, and not replace the 'key-switch'?
I would look into that new solenoid........
LG
Last edited:
DuneRider
Jeeper
LG,
I replaced the ignition switch (electrical) mounted on the steering column. I did not replace the "key switch" where you put the key in and turn it to start the jeep. Should I also replace the key switch? I thought because the key swirch is mechanical and turns fine and moves the actuator to the positions on the ignition switch I assumed that would be fine.
I replaced the ignition switch (electrical) mounted on the steering column. I did not replace the "key switch" where you put the key in and turn it to start the jeep. Should I also replace the key switch? I thought because the key swirch is mechanical and turns fine and moves the actuator to the positions on the ignition switch I assumed that would be fine.
- Posts
- 14,790
- Thanks
- 55
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
- Vehicle(s)
- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
You bypassed the solenoid and it starts. You can turn it off with the key. I'd be looking at that solenoid to be sure it's work'n and wired 'rite'.
LG
LG
DuneRider
Jeeper
I checked the connections at the solenoid. It is correct. Do you think my ground cable from the battery post ti the block is bad? I removed it, cleaned it up, etched it and reinstalled it. I did notice green corrision on the cable when i peeled back the pvc wrap a little bit. It ohms out and when connected to the battery i read 13v.
Do you think it is just not getting a good connnection?
Do you think it is just not getting a good connnection?
- Posts
- 14,790
- Thanks
- 55
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
- Vehicle(s)
- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Best to attach that GND lead to the top bolt of the starter. 
Again-If you can bypass the solenoid, and the engine starts. You may well have an issue with that solenoid.
Again-How old is this battery?
LG
Again-If you can bypass the solenoid, and the engine starts. You may well have an issue with that solenoid.
Again-How old is this battery?
LG
DuneRider
Jeeper
I moved the ground cable to the bolt of the starter and will leave there. It had no effect on starting the jeep. Thanks for the tip. The battery is about 2 years old. I will have it tested again. I do not have another battery to try. When i jumped it with my chev truck side posts, I connected the jumper cables directly to the battery cables from my jeep after i removed them from the jeep battery and it had no effect.
I will take the new solenoid off and go get it replaced at the parts store. I certainly appreciate your patience sir. This has been a nightmare. Is there a way to test the solenoid?
I will take the new solenoid off and go get it replaced at the parts store. I certainly appreciate your patience sir. This has been a nightmare. Is there a way to test the solenoid?
- Posts
- 14,790
- Thanks
- 55
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
- Vehicle(s)
- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
There may well be a way to test it-I don't know what that procedure is.
Hopefully, someone else here does.
LG
Hopefully, someone else here does.
LG
Posi
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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To test the starter solenoid.
Using your ohms meter you should have 3-5 ohms between the S post and base plate.
Open between the 2 large posts.
Open between the S post and opposite large post.
Using your ohms meter you should have 3-5 ohms between the S post and base plate.
Open between the 2 large posts.
Open between the S post and opposite large post.
Posi
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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Before you took anything apart did you check the voltage at the + side of the coil with the key on? If so what was the reading?
007
Crazy Sr. Respected Jeeper
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- 1977 CJ-7 Renegade (Daisy Jane), Levis trim, 304, TH400, BW1339 (MM), D30/Auburn Max, AMC20/Detroit/G2's, 4.88's, 33" BFG MT KM2's, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley Sniper 4bbl EFI, MSD6, MSD ProBillet distributor, OME shocks, 4" ProComp lift.
I was bitten once by a ground cable on a 66 Chevy truck one time. Replaced everything one-by-one and once that was done I found I had a bad ground cable. It's not a high percentage failure part, but it's as important as anything else you've done already.
From what I can follow on this, we still don't know if the starter or solenoid are good yet correct?
Also does your Jeep have a built-in voltage regulator within the alternator or one mounted on the firewall beneath the battery...or both
?DuneRider
Jeeper
POSI,
I used your method to test the solenoids. I checked both the new and old the and they both are good. I did not check the voltage at the coil because the key was just "dead". I went out and checked it just now with the key on and nothing. The coil does not show any voltage. The key does not energize anything. I have to jump 12V from the batteru directly to the alternator wire to energize the lights, dash, key on position. To start it, i take another 12v lead from the battery to the "s" on the solenoid and it starts and runs fine. But if i take the 12v lead ofg tne alt wire it dies or if i turn off the switch it shuts down.
I am very grateful for any other information you can share. Thanks..MB
I used your method to test the solenoids. I checked both the new and old the and they both are good. I did not check the voltage at the coil because the key was just "dead". I went out and checked it just now with the key on and nothing. The coil does not show any voltage. The key does not energize anything. I have to jump 12V from the batteru directly to the alternator wire to energize the lights, dash, key on position. To start it, i take another 12v lead from the battery to the "s" on the solenoid and it starts and runs fine. But if i take the 12v lead ofg tne alt wire it dies or if i turn off the switch it shuts down.
I am very grateful for any other information you can share. Thanks..MB
DuneRider
Jeeper
POSI,
I used your method to test the solenoids. I checked both the new and old the and they both are good. I did not check the voltage at the coil because the key was just "dead". I went out and checked it just now with the key on and nothing. The coil does not show any voltage. The key does not energize anything. I have to jump 12V from the batteru directly to the alternator wire to energize the lights, dash, key on position. To start it, i take another 12v lead from the battery to the "s" on the solenoid and it starts and runs fine. But if i take the 12v lead off the ALT wire it dies or if i turn off the switch it shuts down.
I am very grateful for any other information you can share. Thanks..MB
I used your method to test the solenoids. I checked both the new and old the and they both are good. I did not check the voltage at the coil because the key was just "dead". I went out and checked it just now with the key on and nothing. The coil does not show any voltage. The key does not energize anything. I have to jump 12V from the batteru directly to the alternator wire to energize the lights, dash, key on position. To start it, i take another 12v lead from the battery to the "s" on the solenoid and it starts and runs fine. But if i take the 12v lead off the ALT wire it dies or if i turn off the switch it shuts down.
I am very grateful for any other information you can share. Thanks..MB
007
Crazy Sr. Respected Jeeper
- Posts
- 3,450
- Media
- 5
- Solutions
- 1
- Thanks
- 64
- Location
- Reno, NV
- Vehicle(s)
- 1977 CJ-7 Renegade (Daisy Jane), Levis trim, 304, TH400, BW1339 (MM), D30/Auburn Max, AMC20/Detroit/G2's, 4.88's, 33" BFG MT KM2's, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley Sniper 4bbl EFI, MSD6, MSD ProBillet distributor, OME shocks, 4" ProComp lift.