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Electrical Problem- Help!

Electrical Problem- Help!
No sir there is no fuse link at the solenoid.
Please take a look at the pics and descriptions. The first set shows the orange wire off the solenoid. I traced it to the first split which was at the distributor red wire going in. I followed up to the next split which was at the drivers side firewall where it went to tne ignition module. I ohmed out from the cap on the solenoid to tne second split and it is good. Which one of these would have the resistor wire in it? I replaced the ignition module yesterday.

The second set of pics shows the blue wire coming off the solenoid post and there are no splits and goes directly into the firewall and to the ignition switch.

The last set of pics show the need connector to tbe ALT and a black wire that looks like a resistor wire that is twisted into the wire. The black wire goes to a split in two red wires. When i ohm out the black wire shows to be fine. When i energize the red cable at the ALT with a hot lead directly from the battery it energizes the entire jeep. It just will not start with me taking another hot wire and touching it to the blue wire post on the solenoid.

Any suggestions?
 
LG,
Hopefully your still monitoring. I cannot begin to tell you how much i learned in tne past few days. Do you have any other suggestions on what to do? I actually returned the ignition switch and exchanged it. It didnt do anything. I removed the steering wheel last night looking for bare or grounded wires in the loom. Nothing. I actually changed the directional cam last year.
 
Yes sir i have checked continuity on every wire. Everything shows good. When i energize the harness using a hot wire everything works. Just not getting the solenoid to energize when the key is turned on. Everything is dead. It doesnt even spark a little when a connect or disconnect the battery post. Everything is dead. The fuses are good. If you have anythibg i can do. Please do tell.
 
Yes. The is continuity on tne red wire is good. Thats the wire i have been using to run the hot wire from tne battery to in order to energize the jeep
 
DuneRider said:
Yes. The is continuity on tne red wire is good. Thats the wire i have been using to run the hot wire from tne battery to in order to energize the jeep
Click to expand...
You disconnected both ends of the red 10g wire, the one that runs from the alternator to the ignition switch, and you have continuity?
 
No I have not disconnected the red wire from the switch, let me go do that right now. I will unplug the connector at the ignition switch and find the red wire and check the continuity back to the alternator. I will need a second hand. I will post when i get you an answer.

Please look at the pics below and tell me what this silver box is mounted the the fender on the passenger side. The ignition module is on the drivers side mounted under the coolant return bottle. Thanks. Be back soon.
 
That looks to be a 75-77 ignition module.
 
DuneRider said:
Yes sir i have checked continuity on every wire. Everything shows good. When i energize the harness using a hot wire everything works. Just not getting the solenoid to energize when the key is turned on. Everything is dead. It doesnt even spark a little when a connect or disconnect the battery post. Everything is dead. The fuses are good. If you have anythibg i can do. Please do tell.
Click to expand...


:)
That solenoid in the picture you supplied........where does the two leads ( 1 blue and one red w/blue stripe) that are attached to the trigger mechanism go to? And is that a jumper wire between the two or just some form of keeping them attached?

Most solenoids only need a single wire and ground source to trigger..........meaning only 1 wire has to return to the solenoid....

Looking at that large black wire above the solenoid I assume that is a ground coming from the battery? That connection on a painted surface is probably not doing much good........nor is the fact that the solenoid should also be properly grounded either by a direct lead off the body of the solenoid or with a direct connection from the solenoids base to the metal body......which hopefully has a valid body ground.

Verify your grounds.


:D:D:D:D
 
DuneRider said:
No I have not disconnected the red wire from the switch, let me go do that right now. I will unplug the connector at the ignition switch and find the red wire and check the continuity back to the alternator. I will need a second hand. I will post when i get you an answer.
Click to expand...
You don't need a second set of hand. Pull the firewall connector and check there. Check continuity from the ignition switch to the fire wall pin, then check pins on the plug to the points on the engine side.
 
Thanks guys for the electric details here. I'm learn'n much also.:notworthy:
Before you do any more fuss'n inside the steering wheel area. Disco the POS(+) battery lead.
LG
 
Could you post your engine build code? You can find it on a machined pad on the right side of the block between the #2 and #3 cylinders.

Wondering why you have an earlier ignition module on your 81.
 
The connector between the plugs is just to hold then together.
You should have a cable from the battery to the large post of the solenoid.
That same post you should have a red wire going to the alternator BATT.
The opposite large post there should be a cable to the starter motor.
The red wire on the small post (ignition) should go to the + coil and module.
The blue wire on the small post goes to the cranking ignition switch and ignition module.
 
Any updates? :confused:
LG
 
Sorry for the delay in entering. Had a family emergency.

LG,
I wired the jeep as you indicated in the last post and the jeep started right up. The alternator still charges a little high about 14.8V but other than that it actually runs smoother.

I have no idea what could have happened. I wrapped the exposed fusible links in electrical tape and put the wires back into the looms and re-positioned the looms back in the original configuration.

Now the heater switch does not work. It worked fine before the incident and it has power coming to it. I checked the plug at the blower and it also has power coming to it. The ground outside on the firewall from the blower motor is snug.

I WANT TO THANK YOU FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP AND WISDOM SIR. COULD NOT HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOUR HELP! :chug:
Hopefully this repaired the electrical problem.

Any more suggestions?
 
POSI,

I relocated the wiring as you suggested and guess what...the jeep started and ran like it was new!!!

THANK YOU FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP AND WISDOM!

I cannot thank you enough for the you following and making suggestions to the post.

Thanks again!:chug:
 
Good to hear. :banana:
Hope ALL is well with the family. :notworthy:
BTW: 14.8vdc charge rate is nut'n to worry about.
LG
 
DuneRider said:
Now the heater switch does not work. It worked fine before the incident and it has power coming to it. I checked the plug at the blower and it also has power coming to it. The ground outside on the firewall from the blower motor is snug.
Click to expand...
If you have 12v to the motor, and a good ground, the motor should run, if it doesn't you need a new motor.

Don't take a snug wire as being a good ground, test your ground to motor to confirm.
 
:agree: 110%

CJ's have a well earned reputation for GND issues.
Best to clean the GND connection at the FW. Then reinstall with an external star-washer that 'bites' into the sheet metal.
LG
 
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