Old man emu YJ spring conversion

[Manic Mechanic]

Kinda what I was thinking. Just curious.
Looking good.

TY

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[Manic Mechanic]

Another update.

So since I had to add a bolt for the new rear hanger (comes with the kit) I decided to fix the bad original ones. I drilled them all out welded in new grade 8 hardware. (Do not attempt this unless you can drill straight and weld hot) Also be willing to be careful around your other Jeep modifications. In my case my fuel pump for my EFI.

Paint as you go. Use lots of antiseez some people say use lock tight however I live in the north east rust is a natural lock tight.

A keen eye will notice one bolt sitting higher than the others. That's because my rear cross member is aftermarket and thicker. It came with a shim for the factory hanger so I reused it and made the middle bolt level with the cross member and the plate is now on the end bolt.

Always remember to tap your new bolt holes to remove slag or paint and for easier install.

(Yes I know I probably could have spent 25 minutes tapping the original messed up threads and using a big self tapping bolt for #3 but I'm picky)

The rest is fairly straightforward install just time consuming with pressing in the new polyurethane bushings and lining everything up.

Stay tuned for more updates as things progress. Unless I get off early tomorrow the next update will be Saturday.

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[Manic Mechanic]

More pics from above

Make sure you have them pointed correctly (arrows for the unsure)

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[bfcj]

Hey Manic, how was your experience with Rocky Road (service, correct parts, timing on shipping vs expectation)? I like their kit but haven't heard best things about their service. I tend to dismiss those reviews a little as people are way more likely to leave negative reviews, but it seemed to be pretty consistent feedback.

Thanks again for the help on my shocks question too!

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Great service so far. I've called a few times over the months (bought back in July/August) obviously I'm just now doing the install.

Parts were all correct but for one exception I received 3 rears and only one front spring. A simple call and confirmation of part numbers and they processed a return. (Emailed me a shipping label). Once I shipped the wrong spring the new one was on its way to me.

The instructions are a touch out of date as the newer kits include new rear hangers (what I was working on yesterday) and the instructions mentioned simply reusing factory hangers with new bushings.

The times I needed to call (other than time difference) have been answered quickly and efficiently. Even after speaking with someone at one point in time I received a call from another representative since they noted a missed call from me.

In the very beginning before I even purchased their tech department was helpful in answering my questions about the kit and the suspected total amount of lift. I'm hoping for the lower end but we shall see.

They also asked me questions regarding gear, bumpers, top etc, etc to help me decide the best spring rate for my application.

Overall I'm very pleased with their kit so far and even more so with customer support.

The worst part of the whole thing thus far was the hit on my wallet as the kit with shipping to the east coast was almost $1,700 but I was mostly prepared for that after looking for a while.

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[Manic Mechanic]

Not much to update on today. More of the same as the other side. Difference being passenger side went a hell of a lot smoother. And if not for the extensive frame repair (rust was much worse than I thought) I would've started on the front before lunchtime.

However the rear is done with the exception of extending the brake line. I will do all of the brakes at one time.

I did however have a broken leaf spring in the passenger side.

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[Manic Mechanic]

No updates today I didn't feel like going into the garage. Think I'm catching a cold or something. Also please excuse the clutter and mess in my garage it's been a long winter

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[Petescj]

Was all the new hardware included? I'm looking at starting with a new frame is why I ask.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Was all the new hardware included? I'm looking at starting with a new frame is why I ask.

Yes and no. It came with all the hardware for the suspension it self. (Shackles, springs, bushings and sleeves, etc) It didn't come with the bolts to mount the new spring hangers to the frame. (I think they want you to reuse your original) However both front and rear have additional mounting holes. Plus my bolts were rusty so I replaced them with new grade 8 hardware.

I did however pay extra for new u bolts front and rear and they come with new nuts and washers.

 

[Belizean]

Now there’s a place for your anti seize, those bolts for the hangers. Rusty threads just waiting to happen on that frame.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Now there’s a place for your anti seize, those bolts for the hangers. Rusty threads just waiting to happen on that frame.

I'm putting it on every bolt and the sleeves for the shackles

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Project creep....

 

[Manic Mechanic]

So I got some more done. The front although is more involved it's fairly straightforward. However I did have to remove my bumper. I didn't get as much done as I would have liked but I was on dad duty until after 1. But I did find time to do some shopping and well.... Now I have more project creep.

 

[hole]

You'll like the JB twin sticks

 

[Belizean]

You'll like the JB twin sticks

X2. They work well

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Lot of progress today. Other than front shocks and brake line extensions the conversion is done. I didn't have to trim or cut anything to make anything fit other than the new u bolts (they are long as heck) I even spent some time cleaning blasting and painting axle parts while I wait for my shafts to return.

I also blasted and painted the rear brackets and then installed new bump stops.

More to follow but not until Tuesday as I have class tomorrow afternoon.

 

[boney]

Looks Great!

Here are a couple thoughts that may have been discussed previously, but I'm gonna mention them again, because you are at the point to think about them...

Did you put the wedges under the front axle with the tall part toward the front? You'll need to make an adjustment from mounted flat on the springs. The stamped wedges in the kit are supposed to be right. I have slightly taller tow shackles on my jeep and it reduces the caster. For me, it's fine if the wheels don't self-center when I'm driving, but I've discovered that it doesn't flat tow as well. The front wheels don't follow the tow vehicle as much as they drag around a corner. I don't tow my CJ very much, but for someone who does, proper caster will matter.

Also, The shocks that shipped with the kit when I bought it were sized to bolt to the leaf spring u-bolt plates. You (like I do) have front axle mounts for the shocks. If you use the axle mounts, check to see if the shocks will bottom before the axle hits the bump stop at full compression. Mine do. I'll eventually get under there and cut off the axle mounts and use the u-bolt plate, but again, I don't flex out my rig very often, so it's been low on the priority list.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Looks Great!

Here are a couple thoughts that may have been discussed previously, but I'm gonna mention them again, because you are at the point to think about them...

Did you put the wedges under the front axle with the tall part toward the front? You'll need to make an adjustment from mounted flat on the springs. The stamped wedges in the kit are supposed to be right. I have slightly taller tow shackles on my jeep and it reduces the caster. For me, it's fine if the wheels don't self-center when I'm driving, but I've discovered that it doesn't flat tow as well. The front wheels don't follow the tow vehicle as much as they drag around a corner. I don't tow my CJ very much, but for someone who does, proper caster will matter.

Also, The shocks that shipped with the kit when I bought it were sized to bolt to the leaf spring u-bolt plates. You (like I do) have front axle mounts for the shocks. If you use the axle mounts, check to see if the shocks will bottom before the axle hits the bump stop at full compression. Mine do. I'll eventually get under there and cut off the axle mounts and use the u-bolt plate, but again, I don't flex out my rig very often, so it's been low on the priority list.

I was actually just calling and talking to the company yesterday about the shocks. Their on my to do list but I have class tomorrow so it will be Thursday at the earliest. Maybe even Saturday. As far as wedges go nothing is in the kit or even mentioned about them. I will do some research but for now I'm leaving it alone as it's together per their instructions.

On a side note I got a call yesterday from my axle shaft guy ) also does my driveshafts. Long story short my driver's side shaft is shot and non repairable. I'm now in the market for new ones. (There expensive but I'm stuck until I get something) I'm currently pricing out ten factory chromeoly shafts

 

[hole]

IIRC, the wedges go thick part towards the front. I'll try to remember to take a look at mine tonight to confirm.

 

[CJ]

The shims should never be used on the front axle. If used on the front steering axle it affects RTC and more. Castor is set by the spring perch. If you need to adjust drive shaft angle on the front (rarely needed because CJs do not run AWD and 4wd is usually low speed) it's a cut / reweld perch operation.
The shims are only to be used to adjust drive shaft angle on the rear axle because of the lift to help normalize drive line geometry and vibration @ highway speeds. The thick side points to the front to tilt the pinion up to the Transfer Case to return the pinion angle to stock degrees.
The reason the sims are only for the rear axle is there is no built in castor on the rear axle because it does not turn.