T-18 .... CJ5 .... Driveshaft?

[Hedgehog]

In years past my first real jeep project was to install and adapt a V6 231 Buick, to a Ford T-18 , to a Dana 300 to a '80 CJ5 . For my purposes this was as close to a perfect jeep was is possible. But it could be said that I cheated a bit. Since the V6 is relatively short and the adaptor kit came with weld on motor mounts, I simply installed the 300 where it was in a stock application and attached the mounts where they needed to be.

While at Willys Works today Rob mentioned that he was surprised that I hadn't installed a T-18 in my CJ5 yet. As it turned out he has a proper CJ5 T-18 with a T-20 Transfer Case already on it that he's working on. Essentially he baited the hook and it's dangling right there in front of me.

Now for the tricky part. Rob said that the only problem is with the very short drive shaft. What? Then remembered how I cheated on the install of the '80. So, for you guys with a T-18 in a CJ5 . Tell me (and others) about how you dealt or deal with your drive shafts.

 

[Nixer600]

I won't be much help. I have a T-18 in my CJ7 .

But it might help to list if you have a lift kit or not.

I do know you can install a cv style yoke in the tcase and use a cv to help with extreme angles.

I got the yoke for my Dana 20 from Carolina drive line it was reasonable, Im also getting my d shafts from them.

 

[Saddle Tramp]

The T-18 of course was a factory option from 1972 to 1979. As such a T-18 in a CJ5 from 1972 and up is a no brainer, however the rear drive line does start to get short and depending upon a lift can lead to bad vibrations if too tall. But this install can in essence be completed with all OEM parts and no adaptors if you scrounge around.

The T-15 is 10” long and the T-18 is 11.9” so + 1.9”. However the T-15 used on jeeps prior to 1976 as I remember may have a longer bell housing of about 9” and with the CJ T-18 front shaft stick out of 7.43” the difference between the overall lengths of the two set ups may be close to nil. Go for it.

 

[Torxhead]

The cv joint suggestion is probably what you need here Hedge, the rear pinion angle has to match the driveshaft angle also. Not really sure how the rear tranny mount is installed, just try and get it as low as you can.

 

[Hedgehog]

Although I've removed most of the stupid high life that came on the '75, then to properly align the body work a one extra body puck lift was added. There is some over-all life, but how much I have no real idea. A slightly longer than stock driveshaft replaced the completely thrashed shaft that came with the jeep.

Does the T-18 have a special Transmission mount?

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

On my 1948 CJ2a with a Ford SB & bell housing to Ford T-18 . Had the D-18 mounted in the stock location & lowered 2", 1" spring lift & 1" shackle lift, with the Dana 44 rear perches welded to match the angle of the TC. It was a very short bigger tube driveline with a longer slip spline & yoke. The front driveline was a pain had to notch the skid plate for clearance, and the driveline also had longer slip spline & yoke.
When I installed T-18 `s or Muncie`s in CJ5 `s at the shop, I always dropped the mount and the rear front u-joints always were CV, with rear pinion angle corrected.
The T-18 `s have a pedestal 2 bolt mount on the adapter, nothing special.

 

[Petescj]

I think I have the driveshaft for that setup in the basement. Gotta look

 

[Hedgehog]

Tomorrow, Monday, I'll talk more seriously with Rob about the Transmission . ...... anybody want a recently rebuilt T-15 and T-20 Transfer Case ?

 

[FrankinCJ7]

Maybe, keep me posted on your progress! I'm looking at a upgrade from a SR4 !

 

[Saddle Tramp]

You didn’t state the year of the T-18 / Dana 20 Transmission /Transfer Case combo. I assume it is 1977 to 1979 CJ. If so the mount for the two transmissions Jeep offered from the factory (T-150 & T-18 ) in a CJ for those years are the same. However, there is a torque stud plate (flat stock) between the bottom of the Transmission and the top of the mount on both with the T-18 plate being the stouter of the two around ¼” stock. (The torque stud goes through the skid plate and the stud plate to limit rotation of the drivetrain under acceleration.) Also the skid plate for those years is the cross member and the frame is drilled and tapped with an extra set of skid plate holes. (front to back) For the T-150 the skid plate is lined up with the front holes in the frame leaving the extra set of holes at the back unused. For the T-18 the skid plate holes line up with the holes at the back leaving the front holes unused; this is compensate for the additional length of the T-18 over the T-150 . Also the skid plate is dropped 7/8” from the frame for the T-18 .

For a 1972 to 1975 (Intermediate) it should just be a case of measuring the overall length of what you have in relation to what you want to install and move (or don’t move) the cross member as needed. I think you have to drop the cross member an inch for the T-18 no matter what.

A 1977 to 1979 CJ bell housing will bolt up to both the CJ T-18 and the transplanted 360 too of course.

 

[Hedgehog]

Rob did say what year the Transmission came out of, I believe he said it was a '76. I am not positive on that though. Naturally my '75 doesn't have the skid plate cross member mount. My '75 T-15 is already dropped 1".

 

[Hedgehog]

Rob did mention that the late T-20's had a different spline count than the older T-20's. So, let's see what this little swap would require changing:

- The Clutch (my old -new clutch chatters)
- throw out bearing
- bell housing
- Transmission
- Transfer Case
- front and rear drive shafts
- new twin stick set-up
- possible trouble with the boots and floor plates

This is beginning to make the Howell Fuel Injection kit look cheap....

 

[Tommy]

I swapped out a T-15 for a T-18 /Dana 20 combo on my '81 CJ5 . After the new clutch, throwout bearing, Transmission and altered drive shaft lengths I spent about $850 and a lot of time. I picked up the T-18 /Dana 20 on Ebay. I had to put in a shorter input shaft and as I say, quite a bit of time. It was well worth it in the end. Night and day on the Rubicon. The rear drive shaft was a bit shorter after the swap but I did not add CV joints and have not had a problem with either drive shaft even in some serious rock crawling. Good luck. It was an upgrade I will never regret and made a world of difference off road.

Tommy

 

[Hedgehog]

I know the T-18 Ford in my '80 CJ5 was a great combination. Mine would be CJ ready. That is what is driving my interest right now. Good memories...

I can't remember, I should it's been talked about here often enough, did you need to replace your T-15 Bell housing?

 

[Tommy]

My T-18 was out of a J20 Jeep truck so I had to change the input shaft to a shorter one. I used the same Bell Housing but needed an adapter plate between the Transmission and the Dana 20 .

 

[Hedgehog]

That is two problems this application won't have. It came right out of a CJ with the Transfer Case already in place. So, you used the same bell housing as the T-15 not the housing that came on the J20. Yes, I know that using the longer housing wouldn't make sense, but I'm anal and need the exact words.

 

[Tommy]

I used the bell housing that I had with the T-15 . I did not get one with the T-18 . I just noticed that you have a V8. Mine is the I6 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . Not sure that makes a difference but you may want to check that out too.

Tommy

 

[Hedgehog]

The front/engine side should be the same. I will check, but I'm fairly sure of that.

 

[Hedgehog]

Talked to Rob tonight, he wasn't in much of a hurry and wasn't ready to deal. He says I'm first on the list when he is ready.

The Transmission he had wouldn't fit on a T-15 bell housing. We looked at both side by side.

 

[hole]

Hedge, you need a T-150 /T-18 bell for a simple bolt up. IIRC the CJ T-18 has a one bolt hole on the Transmission in a different location than a Ford T-18 /T19. The bell I used for my T19 swap was off of a T-150 but I noticed it had the extra hole for a CJ T-18 as well. Not sure if they all do, but mine did.