Build Thread The '80 FrankenJeep frame off reassembly

[gr8dain]

I asked him how strong it would be. He has not replied.

 

[shum8]

Got to do a little stress relieving today. Ever since I got the security box done and mounted I've been concerned as to whether or not the door was gonna hit the seat whet it dropped open. Dug the driver side seat out, which was absolutely filthy by the way and got it cleaned up.

It had YJ risers under it when I bought the Jeep, but found a CJ riser in the extra parts box. Swapped risers and bolted it in - wanted to see how it fit with the steering wheel / box door / half door, etc. once I got it snuggered down, I hopped in and pondered whether or not the height was good.

I then realized how it felt..... It felt GOOOOOOOOOD. Then the moment of truth had arrived- hit the code, eased the door down, and VIOLA! Worked great. Cleared the seat, cleared the steering wheel, all good.

It looks like it's almost touching the seat in the pic, but it's not. Has a good couple inches clearance. Clearing a console is still a TBD, but I can work with that.

Next will be to work on the risers...... the seat leans a bit to the left, I'll see if I can take care of that.


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[mdeluca]

Glad to see you've thought carefully about the usage of the storage box... just sayin'...

 

[gert]

Lookin real good as usual


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[shum8]

Glad to see you've thought carefully about the usage of the storage box... just sayin'...

Gotta have somewhere to lock stuff up....... would still like to have something under the seat........ I still have material left over from the overhead box.......



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[Belizean]

Box looks great ! Looks 45ish. Amazing how clean that seat looks. Needing you leaning more to the right for sure.

 

[Peanut Butter]

Looks like time to start driving it!

 

[shum8]

Gettin there! Glad to see you back around. Tried to get in touch with you couple times over the last few months - welcome back


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[shum8]

Got to diggin around looking for the clutch pedal to bellcrank rod and when I found it, the pivot points are worn pretty bad. And the pivot joint on the adjuster rod was worse. I replaced the adjuster rod end tonight, and will start the task of removing the pivot ends from the clutch rod and replace with heim joints. Here’s the adjuster rod end...

Think this looks loose? You should have shaken it....

And this last weekend, I got all the rest of the plumbing hooked up, throttle linkage in - gotta scoring up brake master cylinder lines in place, and power steering lines.


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[gert]

Sweet glad your getting something done


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[shum8]

Ok - I snooped around on the world wiiiiiiide web, and found a clutch rod replacement kit with him joints....

They stuck the heim joints on the threaded end of the replacement rod. The factory rod had the connections offset just a tad and this one does not. Not sure if the offset is important as the heim joint allows for a bit of angular variance, but I went ahead and made up some spacers to include the offset. The pivot points on my clutch rod were well worn (as every original I've ever seen is...)

so here are the new part arrangement as I see it appearing in my head

Now, to add the offset I had to cut a couple pieces of round bar, and ground a flat to reduce the thickness to get the offset correct

Unless the offset is not even remotely necessary, I'm gonna cut the ends off at the lines, weld the spacers on the side of the rod flush with the ends, then weld the heim ends to the spacers. Good coat of paint and the clutch rod assembly will be good to go. The bell crank pivot pieces got here yesterday, so that should fix the clutch linkage up nicely.


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[gert]

I think the only reason you have the offset is because of how it’s made


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[shum8]

Well it would certainly make life easier to forgo the spacers.....


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[shum8]

Hey, gert - interested in doing me a small favor? Could you verify for me that the front brake line master cylinder to proportioning valve runs from the large reservoir to the front of the valve? Trying to find correct routing is proving to be difficult. I’m gonna see if I can find it in the FSM


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[shum8]

Ok, well - wasn’t in the FSM. So I’m gonna run with the front brake line runs from the large reservoir to the front of the prop valve and the small reservoir runs to the rear. The threads are weird, but it is what it is. Appears the front line will be 1/2-20 on each end and the rear will be 9/16-18 on the M/C end and 7/16 at the prop valve. That doesn’t seem right, but that’s the best I can figure.


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[gert]

Well I’m at work already But I did find this pic looks like the front line has the large fitting and goes to the back of the proportional valve and the back line goes to the top of the proportional valve

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[shum8]

That pretty much reinforces what I thought - THANKY!


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[shum8]

I think the only reason you have the offset is because of how it’s made


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I thought about that - but since each end goes opposite directions, seems like the offset may have been intentional. I went ahead and welded the spacers in place between the rod and heim ends. Now, this is what happens when you take a couple pieces of steel, a few heim joints, a welder, and mix in one large knucklehead. Ain't that purty, but it's nice and strong and should last a looooong time.

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[Belizean]

I thought about that - but since each end goes opposite directions, seems like the offset may have been intentional. I went ahead and welded the spacers in place between the rod and heim ends. Now, this is what happens when you take a couple pieces of steel, a few heim joints, a welder, and mix in one large knucklehead. Ain't that purty, but it's nice and strong and should last a looooong time.

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Looks nice & Purdie to me

 

[gert]

Yep that will do it


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