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What did you do to or with your CJ today?

What did you do to or with your CJ today?
I have done the tricked ignition so the 02 doesn't play a role. It was running to rich so the stepper motor may need to be leaned out. I think it was frozen when I did it so when I rebuild the carb I'm going to check if it is the full lean position. I need to look up if its all the way in or out.
 
mtnwhlr said:
Installed a new fuel pump on my '84 and got it running again after sitting for a while because it wouldn't pass the smog test. I still need to pull the carb and put a rebuild kit in it and check the EGR to see if it's working right. Then I hope it will pass so I can start driving it again.
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Sure glad I don't have to deal with that bs here. Think mine is pretty clean running anyway.
 
Belizean said:
Sure glad I don't have to deal with that bs here. Think mine is pretty clean running anyway.
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Escaped that hell hole 9 years ago...
 
Belizean said:
Sure glad I don't have to deal with that bs here. Think mine is pretty clean running anyway.
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At least it's not as bad as CA. Around hear the ones doing the testing are a bunch of idiots. Funny story I have a '78 Chevy C30 Pu when I bought it you could get a classic tag if it is 25yrs or older witch is a 5yr tag and you don't ever have to do a smog test again. Now they have changed the law so it has to be a '75 or older to get the 5yr tag and my truck is a '78. They let me keep my 5yr tag but are making me do a smog test to renew it. So when I went to renew my tags I found this out. I took it over to get the test and they had no clue. It being a 1ton it has no emissions on it and the were crawling all over it under the truck and under the hood. Finally they got this big book out and was going thru it and I was just sitting in the waiting area laughing. The ended up pass it but it just shows just what a joke it is.
 
mtnwhlr said:
At least it's not as bad as CA. Around hear the ones doing the testing are a bunch of idiots. Funny story I have a '78 Chevy C30 Pu when I bought it you could get a classic tag if it is 25yrs or older witch is a 5yr tag and you don't ever have to do a smog test again. Now they have changed the law so it has to be a '75 or older to get the 5yr tag and my truck is a '78. They let me keep my 5yr tag but are making me do a smog test to renew it. So when I went to renew my tags I found this out. I took it over to get the test and they had no clue. It being a 1ton it has no emissions on it and the were crawling all over it under the truck and under the hood. Finally they got this big book out and was going thru it and I was just sitting in the waiting area laughing. The ended up pass it but it just shows just what a joke it is.
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We have here what is called a Brake tag. That is what they are basically doing. Making sure the vehicle is safe. Lights, things like that. If you go to the same place they pretty much just record mileage and make sure you have insurance and a fee. Pretty much just a tax and done at a gas station.
 
Belizean said:
We have here what is called a Brake tag. That is what they are basically doing. Making sure the vehicle is safe. Lights, things like that. If you go to the same place they pretty much just record mileage and make sure you have insurance and a fee. Pretty much just a tax and done at a gas station.
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That would be nice, here it could be the biggest rolling pile of :dung: but if passes the smog test you are good to go.
 
Belizean said:
We have here what is called a Brake tag. That is what they are basically doing. Making sure the vehicle is safe. Lights, things like that. If you go to the same place they pretty much just record mileage and make sure you have insurance and a fee. Pretty much just a tax and done at a gas station.
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NC is similar buy depends on the county. For me, it's just a safety inspection for my newer stuff (brakes, lights, horn, etc). But anything over 35yrs old is exempt so I haven't had to deal with it on my CJ in a while.


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Continued my 4.0 swap! In a rush to get her done by April. Pulled the brake booster, last thing I had to do before I could begin sanding the firewall for painting, (motor is ready for paint now after inspecting bearings, still need to do the timing chain), can’t wait to hear her run again!
 
Long time lurker here, lots of knowledge here which has really helped on my 1980 CJ5 redo.
Changed the Transmission , front and rear differentials and the Transfer Case fluids this weekend.
I swear I don't think the front diff or Transfer Case fluids have ever been changed. The bolts and fill plugs were a pain to break loose. Was afraid I would strip out the torx heads on the rear [did strip one, had to use vice grips] and was relieved to see the front differential cover had regular hex head bolts.
Also replaced the wiper switch which I destroyed trying to unfasten the wires when I replaced the windshield frame a couple of weeks ago.
Took it for a little spin on the back roads after all the fluid changes and you could almost hear a sigh of relief from the old girl. It was raining and was nice to use the wipers as well.
 
Spent the last 2 days replacing all (but headlights, already have vision-x) lights with LEDs. I must say, it was a lot of work to get the whole dash taken care of, but it paid dividends. I can actually see stuff in the dash at night now. Because I used directional LEDs in the dash indicator lights, there isn't light bleed like I had before and everything looks sharp.

The outside parking, brake, and running lights are much brighter and look sharp as well. I replaced the housings and lenses in the front parking lights because the ones I had weren't OE style. I ordered a pair from Watson and Sons and had a hell of a time getting them to operate properly. And yes, I got the LED flasher I needed for the blinkers. Turns out I just needed to flip the leads in the bulb holder and I was good to go. When I saw "Crown" stamped on the lens, I knew what the problem was. A lot of folks have had to do the same thing to get their parking lights to work properly.

Bonus points...my brake indicator light works now! Bulb was burned out and after it still wasn't working, I traced the wire back and turned out the wire was pulled from the switch. 2 seconds later, we're back in business!

Even more bonus points...my voltage doesn't drop at all after turning on my outside lights and/or turn signal. I was getting almost 2v drop with lights and turn signal on. Now you can barely see it move.

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That's funny because when I'm at a light waiting to turn with my blinker on I can see my voltage dropping / dipping with each blink.

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ttuseth said:
That's funny because when I'm at a light waiting to turn with my blinker on I can see my voltage dropping / dipping with each blink.

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Same here. Switching to low voltage LEDs makes a difference in the draw for sure.
 
LED Update:

I must have jarred some connections putting my dash back in...

My front left and right amber running lights on the fenders don't come on with the headlights anymore. They blink with the turn signal though. My blue hi-beam indicator light isn't coming on either. Everything worked fine before putting the dash back in.

Always something...
 
I finally got around to putting my Jeep-CJ.com sticker on. The first non rainy/snowy day in a while.76144d951285d513cfe486f2c17ac9b1.webp13e8d3921d7767c1febfdd863eb73f45.webp

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shum8 said:



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Gotta give you the hat top for mailing them to me

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I got a few minutes in the garage today before house chores and was able to pull the rear float bowl off my Holley and spin the fuel needle
In its seat and stretch the float return spring so that the fuel pump stops over powering it.... also needed the obligatory test drive round the block :)

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gert said:
.......also needed the obligatory test drive round the block :)
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LOL - I still take those every chance I get......



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shum8 said:
LOL - I still take those every chance I get......



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That's what jeepin is all about.
 
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