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What did you do to or with your CJ today?

What did you do to or with your CJ today?
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So I keep using my notepad to write down the miles at each fill up. You never know when the sending unit will :dung: out.

I use 1 sheet of post it pad and scotch tape it to the dash and write the mileage and date. That way it is off to the right and next to the white knuckle bar and in sight so I don't forget when to fill up.
 
I use 1 sheet of post it pad and scotch tape it to the dash and write the mileage and date. That way it is off to the right and next to the white knuckle bar and in sight so I don't forget when to fill up.

I have a note app on my cell phone that I put my odometer reading and fuel added into as well as a spreadsheet on my google drive that I use to automatically calculate my mileage.
 
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I am very curious to see how this goes with you as I will be doing the same thing next month after i get mine through inspection and make it past my son's wedding in 2 weeks. I have had the tank sitting in my basement since February but have had zero time between HH6 keeping me busy for the wedding, work, and fixing other issues on the CJ to get it ready for inspection.
 
I am very curious to see how this goes with you as I will be doing the same thing next month after i get mine through inspection and make it past my son's wedding in 2 weeks. I have had the tank sitting in my basement since February but have had zero time between HH6 keeping me busy for the wedding, work, and fixing other issues on the CJ to get it ready for inspection.

So far the only real issue is the filler neck on the new tank is a different size than OEM. I need to call MTS and see if they have a part number for a new filler tube that will allow me to keep the OE filler hole/cap assembly. The new filler hole looks like it would need a 2.5" (or 2.25", I didn't measure) ID hose. The old one was about an inch. Vent hose on the filler side is the same though.

The last time I talked to them, they said the 76s had both the smaller and larger holes...flip a coin on what you got. They were pretty helpful the few times that I called, so I don't think I'll have a problem getting what I need from them.
 
They were pretty helpful the few times that I called, so I don't think I'll have a problem getting what I need from them.

Quick update...Just got off the phone with MTS, and they suggested sending a different tank with the correct filler and vent holes instead of jacking around with different hoses, filler, and bracket. They're sending me the new one this week and I'll be returning the tank with the correct size holes. Less of a PITA than to get a new filler and hoses. I'm just covering shipping of the new one and they're sending me a return label for the old one. I'm glad they didn't have me pay for the new one and refund me when they got the old one back.

FYI, the part number for the 2 1/4" filler is 50XL; 1" filler is 51XL. Otherwise tanks are exactly the same.

You might want to doublecheck and make sure what you have before you get into the project and realize you need different stuff. I know it takes a while for you to get parts over there.
 
I will do that. I am replacing everything so I will mock the new one up in the basement before I tear my old one out.
Thanks for the tip

Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk
 
I will do that. I am replacing everything so I will mock the new one up in the basement before I tear my old one out.
Thanks for the tip

Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk

If your vent tube runs all the way to the filler, then you need the 51XL.

If your vent rube runs to to the filler hose, you need the 50XL.

That's the easiest way to check.
 
Cut and pulled the old fuel lines out. What a PITA. I'm glad I found my mini tubing cutter. My knuckles and back of my hands are torn to hell though. Ran the new lines and have everything ready to go for tank install when the right one shows up on Thursday.

One thing I noticed when I was under there is making me pretty concerned. The rear calipers that I just swapped in have a built in parking brake, and the way they're oriented is scaring me. They're about 2-3" below the bump stops on the bottom of the frame. I either need to remove the bracket and rotate it (if that's even possible) or look to go with a 4" lift instead of the 2.5" that I have already. If that rear axle moves more than 3" up relative to the frame, it'll activate that parking brake and/or smack the daylights out of the caliper.

My rear axle (Dana 44 ) is rotated up about 17 degrees because the PO cut and re-welded the spring perches so the pinion points up at the Transfer Case output. That difference in angle puts the caliper closer to the bottom of the frame.
 
Mine shows about 1/3 when full.

Does your engine temp show you run'n on the warm side(needle past the 1/2 way of it's sweep)?
If so---Run a dedicated GND wire from the dash panel, to the NEG(-)battery terminal.
You want 10 gauge stranded wire for this.
LG
 
Does your engine temp show you run'n on the warm side(needle past the 1/2 way of it's sweep)?
If so---Run a dedicated GND wire from the dash panel, to the NEG(-)battery terminal.
You want 10 gauge stranded wire for this.
LG

Thanks LG. In the middle of working the grounds now. Last weekend battery neg to block and main ground strap on motor mount to frame came off to be cleaned any rust removed. Next is what you suggested. Then maybe next time I have the tank out and try adjustment of the float out of the tank. As far as the temperature gauge goes, that has always worked great. Gas gauge never really bothered me. I know I'm good and safe at 200 miles and tempt fate starting around 230 miles. :)
 
Also added the new top. Word of caution, the paddle handles that were sent are never going to work. Salvaged the old style from the last doors and used them instead.
 
Lookin good!!!!

It does look good...

I talked myself out of that tire carrier awhile back, since...with no tailgate, I didn't need a swingout...hard to beat the quality for the $

Thought about having him do a fixed one that I could just tack on
 
All the body mount bushings on my Jeep were worn out, split, falling apart etc. Sooo, I figured if I was going to replace them I might as well replace them with 1" body lift bushings.
I ordered the Daystar 1" body bushing kit. I started spraying copious amounts of PB Blaster several days in advance. But almost every one of the captive nuts spun trying to get them out. One bolt broke with very little effort and when I removed it the middle of it was about as big around as a tooth pick. A couple of the body mount brackets were rusted out pretty bad so I cut some 3X1/4 flat stock drilled a 1 1/4 hole for the bushing collar to go in and welded them on.
The two rear mounts [position 6] were in bad shape as well so more cutting, welding and drilling was required for them.
I was also shorted eleven washers in my kit so I headed to Lowes for replacements. The only washers close to what I needed were a little thinner and not quite as big around as what I needed but I am going to temporarily use them until DayStar sends me the correct ones.
All in all what should of been a one day job took all of two days and i'm still going to have to loosen all of the bolts again, jack the body up and replace the wrong washers.
On a side note the Jeep looks a lot better and no adjustments were needed with the steering shaft or clutch linkage. I didn't have to worry about the fan shroud as my Jeep doesn't have one.
 

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