found some rot, need advise!!

[Dan86CJ7]

and in that pic, thats the riser correct? and it seams to the floor pans?

 

[Posi]

Buying the stamped pieces saves a lot of time as mentioned but you could also make a metal brake or use other tools and metal to shape the pieces as you go.

I needed a metal brake for bending the floor center tunnel and edges I figured I had enough “stuff” around my shop to make one.

I saved this metal produce display cart from the scrap yard and thought it would do for a base. Welded some 3x3 angle.



Added a second piece with hinges I had laying around.



I then added a third piece on top of the first piece and set it back about 1/8” and ground a nice round edge. I drilled a couple hole for 3/8” bolts to lock down the work piece. I also added a CJ sway bar for a handle.



Tested a scrap piece (16g), the hinges are further apart then I’d like but it will work perfect for the floor tunnel. I’m thinking of a piano hinge for the sharper bends.

 

[Dan86CJ7]

dont have my house anymore so trying to do this at the duplex i live in is also an obstacle.. i gotta find some time to open it up, but maybe the floors and riser is a good start...and look through this whole rebuild thread

Does classic not offer the riser panel?

 

[Dan86CJ7]

Been searching CL for tubs too

 

[Dan86CJ7]

1976 96 Jeep CJ5 CJ7 CJ8 Wrangler Rear Floor Pan Pair New | eBay

these work or do you think the whole floor panel is best

 

[jb8376]

Here are some pics of mine using the key parts pans. I cut out what i needed from the pan instead of using the whole thing. I got some from quadratec and some from ebay. The ones from ebay are from acme jeep parts which is a quadratec company. They were scratch and dent. I had to bid on them but got them for about half the price of new. You have to keep watching till they post some or you can call quadratec and sometimes they wil give you a break on the price or shipping. I can see living in a duplex would make it challenging. As far as how everything ties together, its hard for me to explain on here. Once you start taking things apart it will start to make sense. These jeeps are put together quite simple. Another thing is that when you start you will probably find more rust as you go along. I hope this helps. And good luck with those torx bolts.

 

[PaRenegade]

Yes, I'd say by the looks of that pic you should fix the riser too. Working with new metal is always better. The rust behind the peeling stuff is it, and you see the seam where the two join is all but ready to fall away. Once you start picking you'll reveal what needs fixed. Cut it back to good metal or your just buying time. And also, it's hard to weld to old rusted metal that's paper thin. Cut away the thin stuff.
And when it's done be sure to seam seal it and paint it well.

edit: Heck I missed a whole other page (page 3) of this thread. Yes, the riser seams to the floor pan on bottom and the wheel well on top. My pics are with the body turned upside down.
No, Classic Ent. doesn't offer the riser but I have seen it other places.

Posi - Nice brake you made. I tried making a smaller one when I first started. I got the hinge point wrong and had to cut it apart. Then a friend of mine got a 36" metal brake and I never did revisit making mine. Two heavy steel angles and a stout vice helped with the small stuff. Or two pipe wrenches with the thicker stuff.

<pic not showing

 

[jb8376]

1976 96 Jeep CJ5 CJ7 CJ8 Wrangler Rear Floor Pan Pair New | eBay

these work or do you think the whole floor panel is best

These are the classic to current pans. From what ive seen they are inferior to the Classic enterprises someone suggested earlier. They are more expensive but are probably the best reproduction pans you can buy. I think Parenegade used them in his so he can probably vouch for this. The reason i used the key parts was because they covered more on the tranny tunnel in the front pans.

 

[Dan86CJ7]

the others are more coin but go firewall to riser, may be better off

 

[Dan86CJ7]

Nor/Am Universal Step Brace - NOR-15448
and this seems to be the only brace i can find?

JB that looks exactly where i am going after...thanks..just seeing what behind everything is a great help

 

[PaRenegade]

That's it. Though I'm not sure how thick it is. The Classic Ent. panels I got were very good quality imo, but the full panels are only 18" wide so it doesn't cover the center. I cut mine in two to be able to work/fit better with it.

 

[Dan86CJ7]

the set of pans maybe best, maybe i can clean up some of the other poor work...time to start practicing with the new welder.

 

[PaRenegade]

I found .025 solid wire and a gas mix to be best for this thin sheetmetal and not make a mess. Don't run continuous or you'll warp or burn thru. Play connect the dots with lots of alternating tacks. Don't worry about looks, a grinder will make it purdy.

 

[Dan86CJ7]

cool, i think the welder came with a spool of .025 or .030 wire and i deff. use gas vs gasless.
hopefully in a few weeks i can order up some panels and get started at least.

does it look like the key parts cover more area? i gotta get right up to the pillar/seat belt mounting area.

 

[PaRenegade]

The floor panels will go right under the door pillar area and I'm sure that area will be just as bad. If the bottom of the pillar is rusting out that will require some fabbing or fiberglass work. I've never seen that part offered anywhere. I made an L-shaped out of 3/16" to mount my seat belt to and it also then bolts to my roll bar tie in. That covered the front side and then I closed the side in with metal. I will be fiberglassing the final contour to give it more of a curved blend in. The hole bottom of mine were bad because the floor under it was totally gone. The roll bar area I had fixed once before in 96 (but not well enough). Note the white corroded look is from the etching acid. It brushes off with the surface rust pretty easily, but the POR will still grab.

 

[Dan86CJ7]

cool thats where the rot is. the bolt that holds the belt to the floor is ripping out!
Im looking at page 16 now...deff some great refferences. thanks

 

[Dan86CJ7]

wife got her bonus! score, so ill be ordering my floor pans and riserbefore the weekend, hopefully thats all i need for now. now i gotta startgutting the inside...would you guys recommend removing the fuel tank before i start cutting/welding?
i kinda feels it may get worse once i start getting in to it.

 

[Petescj]

Yes. And if your fuelgauge doesnt work nows a good time to check the sending unit and wiring.

wife got her bonus! score, so ill be ordering my floor pans and riserbefore the weekend, hopefully thats all i need for now. now i gotta startgutting the inside...would you guys recommend removing the fuel tank before i start cutting/welding?
i kinda feels it may get worse once i start getting in to it.

 

[PaRenegade]

Yes. And if your fuelgauge doesnt work nows a good time to check the sending unit and wiring.

....and all the bolts holding the skid plate / tank on. And a new strap if it's at all rusted. And a poly tank is a great upgrade for the 15 gal. tank. And paint the skid. And..... And.... (and you thought this would end with patching a little hole... )

 

[Dan86CJ7]

well i did the tank,straps, gauge and sender when i got her 3 yrs ago, so i think im good...im hoping it doesnt become a project as ive been enjoying driving it...lucky i have a back up car..hoefully it can all be done in my driveway.
the bad part is most of the floors look ok besides this, but think the whole panel will be an easier replacement

honest if it wasnt for the seatbelt,fact i wear it and being an older car, id just drive it til it was 100% ness. to repair, but ill get to use the new welder