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found some rot, need advise!!

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found some rot, need advise!!
Dan86CJ7 said:
cool, they deff have a better selection of panels,ect...maybe ill try and open it up and get some better pictures.
Click to expand...

You guys are killing me with the women in your avatars, soon I am not going to be able to peruse the forums at work. Its bad enough everytime I read Pete's posts I get mesmorized by a big pair of bouncy cartoon boobies.:D
 
i had my body shop guy take a peek and he was far from encouraging. Said i may be better getting support rails too. Any one know if this piece come with the rails?
Omix Steel Front Floor Panel - 5756105
 
I don't think it does. You could call and find out for sure. Classic enterprise sells them separately
 
My budget is super tight so I think I may do the floors and outer supports from classic then grab the riser panel.. Who do you guy recommend for the seamsealers,ect? Hopefully I'm not down too long
 
In my research the 3m seam sealer that I think is a 2 part system seemed to be the best. It was expensive and requires a special gun to apply it that was also expensive. I used the stuff from Eastwood that came in a regular caulking tube. It seems to be pretty good stuff.
 
I was looking at Eastwood, thought I seen a can of sealer? I'll have to check it out.
 
They have both and both are brushable. I just wanted to use the caulk style so I could run it along where the floor meets the sides and smooth it with my finger.
 
I used both the 3M brushable sealer (for most) and a caulking tube of Eastwood's sealer for places that you can't really brush but you can "flow" some in under pressure.
 
REQUEST: Some pics of the progress and after you geter welded in would be awesome. Follow your table inside your welder's lid, use the small wire, and Good Luck. Rod
 
will do, just trying to order all at once before starting, and im starting to see a liitle rust around where someone was prior, at the cowl supports meet the floor...so i wanna get the seats out and have good look around...hopefully i can get started soon. its like the second i go to order i see something else i need to look at... i can tell this is gonna be a heavy beer repair!
 
You would be better off finding a YJ tub.
 
im gonna get some pics of the other areas, poured here and had a trail off water to another area, again would like some opinions as im novice to the repairs..have been looking for tubs..dont know if waiting and buying new maybe a better option.
 
http://www.willysoverland.com/repli-tubs/
anyone got any exper. with these? emailed but cant seem to get a response, curious as to the cost, mine for repair keep going up and dont know now if i should just save up for a tub and temp fix my seat belt? or any exper. with the other tub companies out there?
 
My '80 CJ7 is in the same boat. I've been hunting for decent used tubs, and even YJ's are getting scarce. The new steel bodies are running about $3200 plus $400 shipping at best. I replaced the floor in my XJ a couple years ago using a new floor panel and fabbing the spots outside the floor panel. I'm looking at patching the necessary parts while deciding what my long term plans are. Be ready to cut out more metal than you originally planned to. I found out what happens when you try to weld rusty body metal :eek:! Hopes this adds to everyones help.
 
sent an email? we'll see how it goes. i do keep looking around here too, but not much in better shape
 
Willys Overland is the best place you could buy an aftermarket tub. They take any mistakes or omissions that MD Juan (the only manf. of Jeep tubs) made and fixes or corrects them. As for pricing, heres what the pres. of W.O. told me in an email. His employees always let him do the price talking so he'll call you if he's not in and then follow up with an email. Keep in mind this was from may 2012.

------------
Hello Denny,
Very nice speaking with you, and thanks for your interest in our unique and user-friendly product. Please read the "Repli-Tub" story below, check out the pictures, and let me know how we can help. Please read this information carefully, as our body is unlike any other body available anywhere.
Jay

Since we designed, built and started to market the "Repli-Tub"Jeep replacement body ten years ago, I have insisted that the only way to receive a price quote on it was to speak to me personally. The Repli-Tub is so different from every other product on the market, that I wanted to make sure our customers were aware of those differences, and therefore, not lured into making a decision based on "price" only. Well, not surprisingly, the interest in our exclusive product has grown to the point where I can't keep up with the demand for information. While I still welcome and hope for the opportunity to speak to everyone who is interested in our Repli-Tub, and tell them in detail how our product is superior to any other Jeep replacement body, I have decided to offer pricing information along with a brief overview of the product by e-mail, to those requesting it. I will attempt to follow up by telephone, and will continue to take all incoming calls regarding our product.

There is only one company in the world, located in the Philippines, manufacturing a steel replacement body for any model of Jeep. The problem is that these bodies are not put together properly and require the user to be a combination of engineer, steel cutter, metal fabricator, and welder. Unfortunately, most people are not all of these, and even if they were, they may not have all the tools required to accomplish the task. At Willys-Overland Motors, we are all of these, and we do have all the proper tools. Our Repli-Tub is the only, (and I do mean only), replacement body that will come to you with all mounting holes cut, and in the correct position, (with crush sleeves welded in place too), all firewall holes properly cut and angled, holes for the gas, brake, and clutch pedals, as well the hole for the steering column. All tail light wiring and fuel filler holes will also be in place. And until we fix them, the later CJ models do not have the brackets for the grille support rods, tailgate seals, or tail light wiring holes when received from overseas. There are also a number of other parts actually missing from the bodies that, obviously, we fabricate and weld into place. On many models, the supports on the under side of the floor are incorrectly installed and must be removed, repaired, modified and/or re-positioned. Of course, each of these problems will have been fixed and/or installed when you receive your Repli-Tub.

For most restoration or body repair projects, buying a body that is guaranteed to “bolt right to your frame”, is the right choice. There are some applications, however, where an unfixed body, just the way it comes from the factory, is the better choice. For anyone putting a body on a non-stock or non-Jeep frame, or where extensive body modifications are considered, or where you have a fully functional body shop with cutting, welding and fabrication abilities on site, you might want to consider a less expensive alternative. The exact same body tub or kit can now be purchased (un-fixed), for $300 less than the fully fixed Repli-Tub or Repli-Tub kit. In these cases, why pay us to cut in holes, weld in missing pieces, or move channels, that you will just have to un-do or move again, once you get it? Of course, since we really do know how to fix them, we will be happy to answer any questions you have along the way. Please remember, if you are just comparing prices, you also must use this lower cost of our un-fixed body because that is the only way a body can be purchased anywhere else. Even at this lower cost, ours still comes with the best technical support and customer service in the business!

So, when making your decision as to which body to buy, I want you to ask yourself, "Do I want the guarantee I get from Willys-Overland, or am I willing to accept the excuses and disclaimers I get from every other seller of bodies?" Please click on the link below to see some very good pictures of the Repli-Tub for the model of Jeep you have.

The prices for the Repli-Tub are as follows; (While we have been notified of a price increase coming from the factory, we do have a number of bodies in stock that are still at the old price. Please call me, toll free, for the most up to the minute pricing and availability)

CJ2a , CJ3a , MB, GPW, M38 - $3495 for the kit which includes the tub, fenders, hood, tailgate, and windshield frame, as well as all mounting pads and bolts. If you just need the tub, and not the rest of the body parts, that price is $3195.

CJ3b - $3495 for the kit which includes the tub, fenders, hood, tailgate, and windshield frame, as well as all mounting pads and bolts. If you just need the tub, and not the rest of the body parts, that price is $3195.

CJ5 (all years except '72-'75) - $3495 for the tub only. All other body parts are available as needed. The "Jeep" stamp is now available on the side panels, just like the original, for an additional $250.

CJ5 (1972-1975) - $3495 for the tub only. All other body parts are available as needed. The "Jeep" stamp is now available on the side panels, just like the original, for an additional $250.

CJ7 , M38A1 - $3495 for the tub only. And yes, it's true, for the first time, the "Jeep" stamp is now available on the side panels of the CJ7 , just like the original, for an additional charge. All other body parts are available as needed.

Click here for pictures of the CJ7 . http://www.willysoverland.com/index.php/gallery/category/C9/

Fenders - $169 each
Hood - $269
Tailgate - $189 with logo
Windshield frame - $169

Remember, Willys-Overland helps more restorers of Later CJs than anyone. Heres a small sample of what I'm sure can help you.
Windshield frames
"Jeep" logo tailgate.
CJ5 , CJ6 , CJ7 and CJ8 Grilles.
CJ7 & CJ8 Foam padded dash pad.
Tailgate cables and chains.
We now offer the most comprehensive Mechanics Service Manual ever published for the specific year of your CJ. This 3" thick book, filled with pictures and diagrams, is what was sent from Jeep to each of it's dealers in the 60's, 70's and 80's. While not cheap at $99, it is guaranteed to save you many times the purchase price in saved time by not having to try a number of different approaches to solve a problem.

CJ8 Scrambler & CJ6 - $3995 for the tub only. All other body parts are available as needed.

Of course, we also carry just about everything else you will require for your restoration, including drivetrain, steering, brakes, exhaust, suspension, gauges, etc. We specialize in those "hard to find" parts, as well. Any one of our restoration experts and parts specialists will be happy to help you with those needs as well as offer technical assistance. And who do you want to depend on... someone who drop ships one or two un-fixed bodies a year, or someone who actually builds 3 correct bodies a week?

Finally, since so many of you have been asking, we can now offer to help protect your body against rust and corrosion, using the very latest Line-X Spray-On Liner system. The complete underside of your body can be sprayed for as little as $500. Isn't it just like us... offering one MORE layer of protection against rust when your body is delivered to your door! To read what Line-X has to say about their product, Click here: <http://www.willysoverland.com/index.php/WO/faq_answer/linex/>

Personal Guarantee From The President : You will never pay more for any comparable product from Willys-Overland, than from any other parts source. If that ever seems to be untrue, please call me directly and let me fix the problem. Jay

Please call us, toll free, and let us help you get your Jeep back into the best shape it can be.

Call toll free today, because when it comes from Willys-Overland... it fits.
=======================================================================
Jay Margolies, President Willys-Overland Motors Toledo, Ohio
Parts / Accessories / Service / Installation and more
Toll free 888-265-JEEP(5337) Local 419-531-0707 Fax 419-531-4747
http://www.willysoverland.com mailto:info@willysoverland.com
 
guy has no way to ship:( what exactly need to be done to the mdjuan tubs..but seems it maybe worth letting them doit..they did get back to me
 
Well Rommel Juan, the president of MD Juan, has been soliciting insight here and other Jeep forums in an attempt to improve his product. So to what extent they are improved as of now I can't say. But heres a pretty informative link to his thread on Jeepforum.
Tubs from the Philippines - JeepForum.com

Here's also a post made by Keith460, of "84 Sebring Red" fame :D that explains what he had to do. This was prior to Rommels soliciting improvements.

"Replacing your original tub with a new steel Repli-tub is not for a novice person to do and you will need patience to get it right. I didn't purchase one from Willys-Overkand but I got a great deal on one from a guy on another forum for less then half the price and with the "Jeep" logo on the side panels like the originals have. That was a far as the great deal went, modifications and fitment issues with the Repli-Tub was a chore to say the least.

Just to give you some examples of what had to be done, here are some examples of things I had to do to the Repli-tub to match 1984 specs for fit and finish:

1. Remove all primer paint from the tub as it is nothing more then a cheap coating that is applied form the Philippines factory so the panels won't rust from the salt water during shipping across the Pacific ocean.
2. Firewall must have holes drilled to attach items like Heater assembly, Throttle cable, Washer fluid hose, Clutch rod, gas pedal mounting.
3. Top of firewall must have "L" brackets welded into place for the grill support rods to bolt to, hole drilled for windshield washer nozzle and all holes need to be drilled in order to hold the fresh air intake grill in place.
4. Parking brake bracket must be welded to the side wall of the tub cowl section
5. Dash panel mounting holes do not match OEM dash panel mounting holes
6. Holes need to be cut for rear tail lights and gas tank filler neck
7. Rear splash panel needs to be cut off and modified in order to clear factory gas tank location.
8. Seat belt anchoring nuts need to be welded on the bottom of the tub.

These are just a few of the items that needed to be done on the tub but most of these modifications can be already finished if you purchase a tub from Willys-Overland instead of Omix-Ada. Willys-Overland cost a little more but will probably be worth the extra cost since it does all the prep work for you before the tubs is delivered or picked up by you.

All Repli-tubs come from the MD Juan Enterprises Inc. located in the Philippines. Here's a URL for their website to browse around on: MD Juan | The ultimate source of jeep body & parts worldwide |. The company has been making Jeep parts since 1967 and they cover years from 1941 to 1996 Wrangler models but I don't see any parts for anything beyond 1986. They are a little rough around the edges because a lot of hand fitment is done vs factory quality stampings by the thousands so that is understandable. The steel for tubs comes from China and is no different in quality than what AMC was using except for the non use of galvanized sides. All Repli-tubs are 18 gauge steel with some of the structural panels being 16 gauge steel, just like factory OEM panels (I measured the panels myself). For export shipment, all tubs and parts are painted with a rust preventive primer type coating so they won't rust during transport across the ocean. THIS COATING MUST BE REMOVED BEFORE PAINTING YOUR TUB!

The only holes supplied in the tubs are for the steering column, cowl vent, heating fan motor, brake MC, electrical bulk connector, speedometer cable, cowl vent drain hole, A/C evaporator hoses and floor shifter opening. You must make holes for clutch rod, heater housing mounting, enlarge electrical bulk connector, throttle cable, E-brake cable, battery tray mounting, ECM wiring (computer if using), Headlight Hi/Low beam switch, gas pedal mounting, brake/clutch pedal mounting, radio antenna, floor drain plugs, roll bar mounting, seat belt mounting (had to add anchoring plates), door striker fitment (cutting the tub sheet metal), holes for plastic fender extensions, gas filler opening, taillight mounting and wiring hole, spare tire carrier, electrical wire loom opening for taillights and gas tank. Other mods included transferring cable brackets for tailgate, adding wheel well brackets for the roll bar support, elongating holes for the fitment of the windshield frame and modifying the rear body mount channel to fit over the stock 15 gallon gas tank. That's all I can think of but I have pictures posted on my build thread located at the bottom of my signature that shows the Repli-tubs issues.

If I had to do this all over again, I would probably choose a YJ tub instead but the mods are about equal to what needs to be done to the Repli-tubs only because of the rework needed to fit the heater housing and fan motor which were off by a 1/4" from center. That sucked big time!

Good luck on your choice but we're here if you need answers to your Repli-Tub questions."
 
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