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Repairing oil pan again. Help

Repairing oil pan again. Help
If you take a look at the back of the speedo, I believe there were some angular metal tabs that went from the ground post on the gauges to one of the mounting studs of the speedo which had ground. In your case just do whatever is easiest. You could tie them in to the grounds for the lighting or any other ground that is close.

It doesn't matter where your fuel and temp gauges get their ground. I have all aftermarket gauges so I just found a spot on the column that had good ground and ran a wire there.

To confirm if this is your problem, grab a piece of wire and hold it against something with ground and touch it to the ground post on the gauge. Should see the gauges register with key on (if you have fuel or the temp is up).
 
Re: Help!!!!! More problems w the Rear Main Seal!!!!!!!!

Ok well I spent a couple of hours on my cj yesterday and the rear main seal isn't leaking. The wife got pissed at me for spending too much time in the garage. After she left for work I started it up and it didn't leak out back but had a small leak up front. :bang: However I hadn't started it in months and it ran like $$%% and gas started pouring out the bottom of the carb and I think somewhere else.. All over the manifold. The hoses appeared to not be leaking. Please Please any advice!!!!! I don't know skwat about carbs..... :confused::confused:
 
If it was really pouring out you might have a stuck float from sitting for so long. Sometimes you cant tell where a fuel leak is originating from because of its lack of color. Bounce the jeep up and down or lightly tap on the carb around the float bowl; this will be the area right next to where the fuel line goes in.
 
Ok I took your advice and took a Large screwdriver and tapped the carb in several spots and damn if it didn't work great Thank you Thank you. Now the thing is the rear main seal isn't leaking anymore but now the front of the oil pan is leaking OMG


Don't know what to do I guess I could go by another one piece oil pan gasket and do it for the fifth time

Read more: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/carb-help-please-15008/#ixzz20RDvkvYD
 
Good deal on the carb.

Pan leaks do suck.

Where exactly is it leaking at the front? On the curved portion? At the corners where it transitions from flat to curved?

A common problem that sheet metal parts like valve covers and pans develop is that the area around the bolt holes actually get pulled UP towards the mating surface over time/repeated tightening. If you were to have the pan off and ran your finger over the mating surface, you would probably feel that the area around the bolt hole is raised. So, when you tighten the bolts, the area at the bolt hole gets tighter than the areas in between.

The correct way to handle this (if this is the problem) is to just use a small ball pean hammer and hammer those raised spots down.

I have slowed leaks by tapping the pan up if there is one isloated leak after a new gasket has been installed. You can do this a bunch of different ways but the end result is you are bending the pan up to increase the pressure on the gasket.

Doesn't always work but worth a try. Won't work if its at the corner/transition from curved to flat @ timing cover area.

You should have a liberal amount of Ultra Black RTV there and a light film on both mating surfaces.
 

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