Build Thread The '80 FrankenJeep frame off reassembly

[shum8]

Those are mine and have worked great for years and I didn't go to near the trouble you are.

Well, it's been one of those snowball things - I made a front bumper out of a chunk of structural channel, which required the tapering of the front couple inches of the frame rails to fit the taper of the back of the channel.



Then I decided to use the mounting brackets on the back of the bumper rather than upper and lower bolts..... Like the cleaner look. So now, after I posted the above question, I've been mulling this over. Worst case would be the bolts shearing thru the sides of the framing rail, pulling to the front, so I've cut a doubler plate to be welded to the outer side of the frame and another under the forward bolt for the hook. If it's overkill, at least it keeps me out of trouble, and allows more time for ugly welding......

 

[tarry99]

So when you say tow hooks do you mean for a tow bar or these.

Either or............but he was adding some Tow hooks off of a Fire Truck he stated..........again I've seen guys pull there bumpers off using there winch or tow hooks if not properly secured.............If there just for show as many are then doesn't matter.

 

[tarry99]

If it's overkill, at least it keeps me out of trouble, and allows more time for ugly welding......

Not trying to be Anal about strength...........but more is better than less when attaching tow hooks or a winch. It also looks like you need to turn up the welder.........doesn't look like your even burning into that 1/4" web channel.

I also like to transfer some of that stress from tow hooks or a winch back farther into the frame like here where I went back to the next cross-member...........using .125 metal that I later stitch welded.

 

[mtnwhlr]

Either or............but he was adding some Tow hooks off of a Fire Truck he stated..........again I've seen guys pull there bumpers off using there winch or tow hooks if not properly secured.............If there just for show as many are then doesn't matter.

I have used mine many many times with out a problem, they are not for show but maybe I don't get as stuck as you do

 

[tarry99]

I have used mine many many times with out a problem, they are not for show but maybe I don't get as stuck as you do

Hey , glad to hear that.........Hooks are not about being stuck........that's what you have a winch for. I use mine mostly to pull others out and like I said before I've seen many Cowboys out there rip there bumpers right off........happy trails!

 

[mtnwhlr]

Hey , glad to hear that.........Hooks are not about being stuck........that's what you have a winch for. I use mine mostly to pull others out and like I said before I've seen many Cowboys out there rip there bumpers right off........happy trails!

Happy trails my friend. Some day I hope to have a CJ as nice as yours

 

[shum8]

I've seen many Cowboys out there rip there bumpers right off........happy trails!

While I have no intentions of working the front hooks hard enough to tear em off, you guys have convinced me to revisit the reinforcing issue. Years ago I watched a guy try to yank a truck out of a mud hole with one hook on the front of his CJ...... When it let go, it went thru the windshield of the truck he was yankin on, thru the back glass, and disappeared into the woods behind the truck.

 

[Peanut Butter]

Years ago I watched a guy try to yank a truck out of a mud hole with one hook on the front of his CJ...... When it let go, it went thru the windshield of the truck he was yankin on, thru the back glass, and disappeared into the woods behind the truck.

:grinjeep::madjeep:
You, The Gun, and Him!

 

[shum8]

Yup - almost came to fisticuffs. He immediately started offering money for repairs, but in all honesty, I think it was just to keep from having his *** handed to him....

Took the axle housings and new differential guts to my neighbor's house to start working on the regear...... I was fully prepared to be the step n fetch since I know little more than the general process of regarding, and he politely informed me if it was all the same to me, he'd just as soon do it without me - he'd spend too much time talking and not enough working.... So I'm prepping the rest of the stuff off the axles so when the are ready I can begin reassembly.......again.

I thought he was just gonna help - didn't realize that meant do it for me

 

[shum8]

Hey, Hedgehog - here's what I came up with... Filed a flat opposite the grease fitting, drilled and tapped for an 8-32 pan head with lock washer...







And I got the rear axle back this afternoon.... So while I'm stuffing axle guts back into this one, he's working on the front...

 

[Hedgehog]

Exactly what I was thinkin' on doing. New grease might not purge out the old entirely, but better than before. I like, let us know how it works in the end.

While it's still fresh in his mind it would be good to get:

- what your backlash is
- Bearing shim stack numbers for right, left bearing, the pinion and the pinion preload

These are nice to know for future reference. He might not know what the shims are, but he should know the final back lash. He should be in the 0.006 to 0.007 range.

 

[Woolyworm]

I've added zerks to my front hubs and they seem to work well. I've thought a lot about adding them to the tears but I have solid axles now and I don't think there is a way to actually get grease into the bearing with them. The bearing is flipped around backwards with one piece axles and there is s spacer behind the race that adjusts preload and the zerk needs to go behind that but how can the grease get through the spacer to the bearing and even if it does it only gets to the narrow end of it. They are a PITA to grease and I'd love to have the zerk work.

View attachment 19989


Wooly

 

[shum8]

Exactly what I was thinkin' on doing. New grease might not purge out the old entirely, but better than before. I like, let us know how it works in the end.

I'll pack the bearings before install, the fill the cavity after I'm done. Figure it wouldn't hurt to hit with the grease gun again after R&P break in lube swap.

While it's still fresh in his mind it would be good to get:

- what your backlash is
- Bearing shim stack numbers for right, left bearing, the pinion and the pinion preload

These are nice to know for future reference. He might not know what the shims are, but he should know the final back lash. He should be in the 0.006 to 0.007 range.

He took a ton of notes - As a matter of fact, he's kept the setup numbers for most of the setups he's done at home. Backlash is right at .006 for both, but I don't remember the preload numbers off the top of my head. I've got a couple pics to throw on here later tonight.

 

[shum8]

Here's a shot of the ring gear in the Dana 30 . Drive side isn't quite as centered as he wanted, but I'm bettin I won't be able to tell the difference once It's on the road.





Tomorrow, the suspension reassembly commences!!

 

[Woolyworm]

[emoji106]


Wooly

 

[Hedgehog]

shum8 - Very good numbers! You won't notice anything at all, except maybe a tighter feeling rear end.

People, me included don't think of grease as flowing or moving in a bearing type situation like you are working with. But, it most certainly does, grease flows through and around working bearings. Besides the fact that bearing grease gets HOT and darned near liquid.

 

[shum8]

I got the rear axle put back together this afternoon.... Well, all but the brakes. It's now ready to stick back under the frame. Would have taken pics, but this part was pretty uneventful. I did have an epiphany today. Actually more like a really good idea..... I guess in realville it was just a thought. When it came time to shove the axle shafts back into the housings, I mulled over in my mind how to support the axle so as not to stress the oil seal. Looked all over the garage (and if could see my garage you'd understand what a feat that was) for something just the right height..... Nothing. Then my little 5 watt bulb went off in my head.

As a disclaimer, I would STRONGLY suggest you NOT do this if your axle housings are attached to the vehicle!!

I stood the housing up on its end, lubed up the axle, aligned the backing plate, outer seal, applied sealant to the axle flange and just lowered the axle down into the housing. Piece of cake. I'd like the have those twenty minutes back!

 

[shum8]

I've added zerks to my front hubs and they seem to work well. I've thought a lot about adding them to the tears but I have solid axles now and I don't think there is a way to actually get grease into the bearing with them. The bearing is flipped around backwards with one piece axles and there is s spacer behind the race that adjusts preload and the zerk needs to go behind that but how can the grease get through the spacer to the bearing and even if it does it only gets to the narrow end of it. They are a PITA to grease and I'd love to have the zerk work.

View attachment 19989


Wooly

I thought about that - but in my head if it works a little that would be better than nothing, and was worth what little effort it took to do. Worst case is it has no effect at all.....

Got the rear end stuck under the frame, wheels mounted and on dollies. Got the front axle assembled yesterday, and the goal is to get it back under the frame today....... So far most of the stuff I've disassembled have been in good shape - here are the front axle splines





I didn't mess with the u-joints up front - they felt great - no slop whatsoever

 

[shum8]

Ok - after getting both axles under the frame, the next step was to remove enough out of my way to bring the motor around and stick it back in it's proper place.



Once I got a clear path it looked like my garage threw up into the driveway. I think my wife has latent hoarding tendencies...... LOL. It kills me to see some of you guys' garages - They look like empty warehouses compared to mine LOL. Anyways, I got the motor stuck back on the frame,



replaced the flywheel,



added the clutch (and actually got the disc in the right spot first try without an alignment tool......). Got the shift fork reassembled and reattached the bell housing. And for those that don't miss anything, yes, the throwout bearing is on backwards on the pic. After I too the pic, I realized my goof, so I took the bell housing back off, fixed the stooped throwout bearing, and reattached the bell housing.



Once I got the Transmission in place, I realized I guessed wrong as to which of the 240 different mounting holes to use when I bolted it up. I used the holes that looked to be the last ones used, but apparently that was the wrong guess. The Transmission mount hits about 3/4" or so too far forward, so tomorrow I'll drop the skid plate, bolt it to the Transmission mount, and see where I am. I'm anxious to get this part done as I need to troubleshoot driveshaft issues. PO had wedges between the springs and axle, rotating the axle housing so that the pinion was in line with the driveshaft. He may have been prepping for a CV shaft, but there wasn't one there. Gotta make sure my angles are good without the wedges..... We'll see.

 

[mtnwhlr]

It's looking good